MEMORIES OF SANTORINI

Santorini is one of the Cyclades islands in the Aegean Sea that was ravaged by an enormous volcanic eruption, during the 16^th century BC, which eternally shaped its dark and precipitous landscape.

The Capital Fira

Oia

A View of the Caldera and the Island of Theresia

Fira, the capital of the island and the picturesque town of Oia, have white-washed, cubical houses that seem to be, literary, hanging over the steep, dark cliffs.   Also, the residents and numerous tourists enjoy an incredible view of the Caldera, the underwater crater, and the island of Therasia.   

A Fresco Depicting the Life of Therians Before the Eruption

Professor Spyros Marinatos (right) and professor Christos Doumas

Akrotiri, a Minoan, Bronze Age settlement in Santorini was completely destroyed by the eruption.   Fortunately, as it was totally buried by volcanic ash, many works of art, such as beautiful frescoes and fabulous handicrafts were preserved.  The famous archaeologist Spyros Marinatos started the excavations in 1967 and after his death on the site, he was succeeded by the archaeologist Christos Dumas, in 1968.

In the 1980s we visited Santorini with my husband Alecos,  my sister-in-law Dolly and my brother-in-law Pericles.  Our hosts were good friends, a very pleasant couple, Aglaia and Demetris Nomidis, who had a beautiful house in Fira.

The Sophisticated Architecture of the House

Ceramic Vessels

Multi-Storied Buildings 

Elaborate Wall Paintings 

 We visited and were tremendously impressed with the ancient settlement of Akrotiri, which had several distinct characteristics, like an elaborate drainage system and intricate multi-storied buildings adorned with exquisite wall paintings.  The quality of the furniture and the ceramic vessels indicate the town's wealth.   There, we also met my cousin Emelia Marinatos, the professor’s wife, who gracefully offered us a delicious meal.

 We swam at the incredible Black beach of Perissa with black sand and  black pebbles, at the beautiful Red beach near the ancient Akrotiri site, and also, at the glimmering White beach, that is situated on the neighbouring cove.  

The Incredible Black Beach

The Beautiful Red Beach

The Glimerring White Beach

Incredible, astounding Santorini!  You must, certainly, visit this exceptionally interesting and beautiful island with its multicoloured soil and rocks.




Here are a few recipes for the fantastic food we tasted in Santorini.

Sardines are very healthy as they contain omega-3 fatty acids which are essential for the human body.  Besides helping the brain function, they, apparently, reduce the risk of heart disease.

                                   SARDINES IN SWEET AND SOUR SAUCE

This very old dish is a way of preserving fish.  It has a slightly sweet and sour taste and keeps well in the fridge for a week to ten days. 

The traditional way to cook sardines this way is to fry them after coating them with seasoned flour.   Here is a healthy version.

1 kg (2 lb) fresh sardines, head and backbone removed, butterflied, washed and dried

Salt and pepper and

¼ tsp Cayenne pepper

Mild tasting olive oil and a little water for cooking

1 cup raisins

250 ml (1 cup) sweet white wine

1 cup pine nuts, toasted

750 g (1 ½ lb) onions, very thinly sliced

1 tbsp olive oil

125 ml (½ cup) water

2 cloves

1 tsp crushed coriander seeds

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

375 ml (1½ cup) hot chicken stock or more, if necessary

125 ml (½ cup) vinegar

1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper or less

Sprinkle the fish with salt and pepper and simmer with a little olive oil and enough water to cover, until tender.  Then place the sardines on paper towels to cool. 

Meantime, drop the raisins in white wine to soak, for about ½ an hour at least.

Sauté the onions in olive oil and water, stirring until well coated, add the cloves, coriander seeds and a little salt, lower the heat and simmer covered, for 7 minutes.  Then stir in enough hot chicken stock to cover and simmer very gently, with the lid on, until the onions are cooked but still a bit crunchy.  Add the raisins with whatever wine has not been absorbed, and the pine nuts, and cook over very low heat, until the onions are tender.

Add the vinegar and cook for 5 minutes uncovered.  Taste and add more salt and vinegar if necessary and the Cayenne pepper, if using.  Allow the onions to cool.

Arrange half the sardines in one layer in a large dish.  Spoon half the onion mixture on top.  Repeat the same procedure once more ending with the onions.  Cover with cling film and, place the fridge. 

                            STUFFED SARDINES COOKED IN VINE LEAVES

This is a lovely first dish. It is healthy and cheap, and it is best prepared in late spring and summer when there are plenty of vine leaves.                                          

1 kg (2 lb) sardines, cleaned, scaled, heads removed and boned but kept in one piece

1 lemon the juice only

A little salt and freshly ground black pepper

Stuffing:

2 tbsp olive oil

2 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped, including the tender green parts

2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced 

A sprig of rosemary

2 small firm tomatoes, skinned, seeded and finely chopped

3 tbsp parsley, finely chopped

1 tbsp marjoram, finely chopped

Salt and black or pepper to taste

¼ tsp Cayenne pepper

A little sugar

2 tbsp pine nuts, toasted and chopped

3-4 tbsp dried breadcrumbs

Fresh vine leaves, blanched

3-4 tbsp olive oil, the juice of half a lemon and 250 ml (1 cup) water whisked

                                                                                                         together

Lemon wedges for garnish

Marinate the sardine fillets in lemon juice, salt and pepper for about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the stuffing.  Sauté the spring onions, garlic and rosemary in olive oil and a little water for 4-5 minutes or until the onions are soft.  Add the tomatoes, parsley, salt, Cayenne pepper and sugar and simmer until most of the cooking liquid has evaporated.  Discard the rosemary sprig.  Add the dried breadcrumbs and pine nuts and mix very well together.  Taste for seasoning and add salt, pepper and sugar, if necessary.

Pat the sardine fillets dry and place them on a working surface, skin side down.

Spread about 1 tsp of stuffing on each sardine, and fold over giving them their original shape.  Wrap each fish in 1-2 vine leaves, forming small packets.

Arrange the packets, neatly, side by side in an oiled baking dish and drizzle with the olive oil-lemon-water mixture and sprinkle with a little salt.  Cover with baking parchment and foil, and bake in an oven preheated 180 C (350 F) for about 25-30 minutes, adding a little more water if necessary.

Serve garnished with lemon wedges

                                     SHRIMPS WITH OUZO AND PASTA

Before Sprinkling with Cheese

Grated Cheese

                                          

This dish really reminds one of Greek summers!  One must never serve seafood with cheese, but this is an exception due to the spaghetti.

500 g (l lb) fine spaghetti

2 tbsp melted butter, divided

750 g (1½ lb) shrimp shelled and deveined

2 tbsp olive oil

60 ml (¼ cup) ouzo

5 spring onions finely chopped

1 clove garlic finely chopped

125 (½ cup) tomato juice

3 large, ripe but firm tomatoes, peeled, deseeded and cubed

1 tsp sugar, if necessary

250 ml (1 cup) Santorini Sigalas or any other good dry white wine

2 tbsp chopped fresh basil

Salt and pepper

1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper

150 g (5 oz) feta cheese crumbled

2 tbsp fresh chopped basil

Grated kefalotyri or Parmesan, for serving

Boil the spaghetti in salted water until al dente, strain, add half the melted butter, swirl the saucepan and keep warm.  Reserve a little of the cooking liquid.

Meanwhile, cook the shrimps in 1 tbsp olive oil until they just change colour, sprinkle with a little salt, add half the ouzo and ignite.  When the flame dies down, remove the shrimps and keep hot.

Sauté the spring onions and garlic in the remaining oil, season with a little salt and pepper and cook until almost soft.  Then pour in the wine and stir for a few minutes, until the alcohol evaporates, add the tomato juice and cook 10-12 minutes more.  Add the cubed tomatoes, and the Cayenne pepper and taste the sauce, adding a little sugar if the tomatoes are acid, and simmer 5 minutes more.  Add the sautéed shrimps, feta, basil and the remaining butter and simmer gently for one minute. Taste for seasoning, once more, and add salt, if necessary, and freshly ground black pepper.

   

Combine the shrimp sauce with the spaghetti, pour in the remaining ouzo, toss thoroughly and cook two minutes more, adding a few tablespoonfuls of the reserved spaghetti cooking liquid, if necessary.  Serve hot, sprinkled with grated cheese.

                            BREAD WITH TOMATOES, OLIVES AND FETA

     

Bread with Olives and Cheese

Bread with Tomatoes Onions and Grated Cheese

                      

This is a lovely recipe for bread that keeps fresh for 3-4 days.  Try also preparing it with onions.  This bread can be successfully dried in a slow oven.

500 g (1 lb) flour

8-10 g (1 tbsp) dried yeast

½ tsp salt

12 Santorini tomatoes   

150 g (5 oz) or more feta or chloro, a cheese from Santorini, crumbled

1 tsp honey, diluted in

250 ml (1 cup) tepid water

1 cup stuffed olives, sliced
Thickly grated graviera from Crete or Naxos

In a large, warmed bowl mix the flour with the dried yeast.  Then add the salt and half the amount of cheese and mix well.   Add the water and honey mixture and knead vigorously for 8-10 minutes until the dough becomes elastic but remains soft.  Place the dough in a clean, warm mixing bowl, cover the whole bowl with a plastic bag, tea-towels and a small blanket and let rise, free from draughts, until doubled in bulk (about 1 ½ hour).

Knead the dough, again, add the olives and the remaining cheese.  Shape 2 round loaves, stud with the Santorini tomatoes and leave to prove, on an oiled baking tin, for about half an hour, or until doubled in bulk.   Brush the loaves with olive oil and bake in a hot oven, preheated to 200 C (400 F) for 40 minutes, until golden and crisp. Serve hot, sprinkled with grated graviera. 

For rusks, slice the bread, arrange the slices in a baking tin and dry in a very slow oven, turning them over once.   Turn off the heat and let them cool in the oven.   Remove the rusks from the oven and store in biscuit tins.    

           

                    TRADITIONAL SANTORINI YELLOW SPLIT PEA DIP - FAVA

A delicious vegan dip from Santorini.

1 cup yellow split peas

750 ml (3 cups) of water

1 onion, peeled and grated

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

2 tbsp olive oil and extra for serving

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Lemon juice to taste

2 spring onions, trimmed and  finely chopped 

1 cup finely chopped parsley

The grated rind of ½ a lemon

(Mix well together)

Lemon wedges and paprika for garnish

Rinse the yellow split peas and boil with the onion, garlic. olive oil for about 1 hour adding more hot water if necessary.   Then cool and blend to a smooth puree.

Warm the fava and add salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste. sprinkle with the spring onion, parsley and lemon zest mixture and garnish with lemon wedges and a little paprika.

                 TOMATO FRITTERS FROM SANTORINI – TOMATOKEFTEDES

4 medium-sized tomatoes, finely chopped

2 medium-sized carrots, thickly grated

1 medium-sized onion, finely grated

1 cup finely chopped parsley

¼ cup finely chopped mint

1½ - 2 cups self-rising flour

Salt the freshly ground black pepper to taste

Sunflower oil for frying

Mix the 5 first ingredients in a bowl, add enough flour, a spoonful at a time, and stir, until a thick batter is formed.

Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan and drop tablespoonfuls of batter into the hot oil and cook on both sides until the fritters turn brown and crisp.  Remove with a slotted spoon and place on kitchen paper to drain.   Serve hot.

                                      

                                       GUSTEL’S  AUBERGINE PIE

This is real comfort food.

Filling:

500 g (1 lb) minced beef and pork in equal quantities

2 tbsp olive oil

1 medium onion, peeled and grated

3 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped

1 kg (2 lbs) aubergines, peeled and cut into small cubes

Salt and pepper to taste

1 small cinnamon stick

½ tsp nutmeg, freshly grated

250 ml (1 cup) white wine

1 tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped

2 tbsp long-grain rice

½ cup chopped parsley

1 tbsp chopped marjoram

250 ml (1 cup) hot water

2 eggs, yolks beaten, whites whipped to the soft peaks with a pinch of salt

250 g (8 oz) kasseri or Cheddar, cubed

10 sheets phyllo pastry

180 g (6 oz) (5/8 cup) hot, melted butter

1 ½ tbsp dried breadcrumbs for baking
Sesame seeds, optional

 Sauté the onions and spring onions in olive oil, until soft.  Stir in the minced meat and cook for about 10 minutes, until it changes colour and crumbles.  Add the aubergine cubes, salt and spices, mix well together and cook for 10 minutes more.  Pour in the wine and simmer for 2-3 minutes, uncovered.   Then add the tomato, the herbs, rice and the hot water.   Cover the saucepan and simmer gently, until the rice softens slightly. Taste and add more salt, pepper and nutmeg if necessary and discard the cinnamon stick.  Remove the saucepan from the heat and set aside to cool.   Then stir in the beaten yolks and very gently fold in the whipped egg whites.

Line a 35 x 25 cm (14 x 10 inch) buttered baking dish with 5 phyllo pastry sheets, each brushed with melted butter.   Sprinkle with dried breadcrumbs and carefully spoon in the filling, and level the surface with a spatula.  Tuck the cheese cubes evenly into the filling, fold the pastry over and lay 5 more buttered sheets on top.    Trim the pastry and tuck it neatly into the sides of the dish. Score the top layers of the pastry into portions.   Brush the pie once more with hot butter, drizzle lightly with water, sprinkle with sesame seeds and bake it in a moderate oven preheated to 190 C (375 F) for 40 - 45 minutes.  Serve with a green salad. 

         FETA BAKED IN PHYLLO PASTRY WITH SESAME SEEDS AND HONEY

A delightful hors d’oeuvre.  Here are the ingredients for one saganaki packet

90 g (3 oz) feta in a rectangular shape 3x4 inches

1 sheet phyllo pastry

Melted butter

Sesame seeds, toasted

Honey

Preheat oven to 180 C (350 F).  Brush a phyllo sheet with melted butter, place the feta slice at the bottom of the sheet and wrap into a neat packet.   Prepare as many feta packets as you need.  Bake for 20 minutes until crisp and golden.

Serve drizzled with honey and sprinkled with sesame seeds.

                               SWEET CHEESE TARTS FROM SANTORINI

                                          

Meletinia from Santorini

Meletinia are very popular and not only in Santorini.   When they are made with good quality cheese, they are superb!

Pastry:

300 g (2 cups) flour

1 tsp baking powder

A pinch of salt

1 tsp finely grated orange rind

115 g (1/2 cup) butter

2 eggs, beaten

2 tsp orange juice

1 tbsp or more soda water

Filling:

200 g (6 3/5 oz) unsalted, white cheese, like mizithra, anthotyro or ricotta

300 g (1 ½ cups) sugar

150 g (1cup + 1 tbsp) flour

3 eggs, separated whites whipped to stiff peaks with a pinch of salt

1 tsp finely grated orange rind

Cinnamon

First, prepare the pastry.   Sift the flour, salt, baking powder together, add the grated orange rind and rub in the butter until the mixture resembles bread crumbs.  Add the eggs, orange juice and soda water and knead just enough to form a soft dough.  Then set aside to rest for at least 30 minutes.

  

For the filling combine the cheese, sugar, eggs, grated orange rind and flour together.   If the mixture seems very soft, stir in a little more flour and then, carefully fold in the beaten egg whites.

Roll out the pastry rather thinly and cut in 10 cm (4 in) circles, with a pastry cutter.   Place 2 teaspoons of the cheese mixture on each circle and pinch the edges together to form a tartlet.

  

 Place the tartlets on a baking tin lined with baking parchment and bake for 25 minutes in an oven preheated 180 C (350 F).  Serve sprinkled with cinnamon. 

    

                

Santorini by Antonis Sandorinios