Sunday 7 February 2016

HOME LEAVE 1956 - PART II (continued)




The Corniches Trio


Cote d'Azur



On the 8th April, we left Turin and headed for the French Riviera.   Our brave, little Seicento followed the harsh, narrow road which, with very dangerous twists and turns, hugged the deep precipices of the Maritime Alps.  

It was dark when we arrived at our hotel in Manton.  Our friends told us that we should have booked a hotel either in Cannes or in Nice or in one of the beautiful medieval villages, off the Grande or the Moyenne Corniche.  "Menton,"  they said, "is a beautiful town, but, as it enjoys the mildest climate in the region, it, consequently, has France's oldest population!"   Incidentally, we loved Menton, its friendly citizens and our beautiful small hotel, where the red carpet was rolled out for the guests!   Today, it would be called a "Boutique Hotel". 

 It was very difficult to find accommodation on the French Riviera, at that period, because, on the 18th April 1956, H.R.H Prince Rainier II of Monaco was getting married to the talented and beautiful American actress, Grace Kelly, and the presence of the press, that would be covering the event, was already felt.


The Old Town of Menton

 A Jewel of  Baroque Architecture
The Basilique of Saint Michel in Menton  

The Public Gardens of Menton


Menton's Citrus Festival

One of the first regions we visited on the Cote d'Azur was the small Principality of Monaco.

A short account of the myths and historical events concerning Monaco:  

I have read that, since the Stone Age, the Rock of Monaco provided a haven for primitive tribes, like the Ligurians, relics of whom have been found in a cave, in Saint Martin’s Gardens.  Strabo describes the Ligurians as a race of mountain dwellers, who were prone to hard work and frugality. 

According to the legend, the tracing of the route running from Italy to Spain and the all ancient fortifications, built upon it, were attributed to the great hero of Greek Mythology, Hercules. (The 13th labour?)  To honour him, the road was called the “the Road of Hercules”, also, many shrines and a temple were dedicated to him.   The Phoenicians and the Carthaginians called the port “Port of Hercules”.  Later it was called Monaco, derived from “Hercules Monoikos” which is Greek for Hercules alone or single.  Hercules monoikos,  i.e. alone, without help, performed this great task (labour), so blessed by the gods.

Later, the region was occupied by the Romans.   In 1162, the holy Roman Emperor Federico Barbarossa granted the domain, that included the contemporary Roquebrune-Cap-Martin region, to Genoa.   Unfortunately, an era of great unrest followed, as two leading Genoese families, the Ghibellines and the Guelphs, fought against each other, incessantly.   In 1215, the Ghibellines built the fortress on the Rock.   Later, a Guelph, named Fransisco Grimaldi, entered the fortress, disguised as a monk, captured it and founded the Grimaldi Dynasty, that continues ruling Monaco, to this very day.   Between myth and truth, it is an extremely interesting and enchanting story!

Monte Carlo is  renowned for its Oceanographic Institute and the very important scientific research, that is being carried out there, and the Museum of Monaco which accommodates one of the most prestigious aquariums in the world.  But it is, also, one of the famous playgrounds of the planet.  It is well-known for the  Rally of Monte Carlo, and the Casino, a great gambling and entertainment complex, which includes, besides the Casino, the Great Theatre of Monte Carlo and the offices of the Ballets of Monte Carlo, both of which are of huge cultural interest.

But in April 1956, most of the Monegasques were only thinking of, and looking forward to the oncoming fairytale wedding of their Prince to the very talented and hauntingly beautiful Grace Kelly.        

  

The Fortress Of  Monaco


The Palace At Monaco


The Cathedral of St. Nicolas of Monaco


Prince Rainier of Monaco and Grace Kelly



The Beautiful Bride


The Oceanographic Institute and the Museum of Monaco



The Casino of Monte Carlo by Night


Three roads, the Corniches, traced on the Maritime Alps, running almost parallel to each other, dominate the coast, from Menton to Nice.  

The Grand Corniche apparently follows the path of the Roman Via Julia Augusta and the Moyenne Corniche runs just below.   Both have breathtaking views and picturesque, medieval villages.  Finally, the Basse Corniche or Corniche Inferieure, that is built along the Mediterranean coastline, is dotted with cities, towns and villages of unique  beauty.

I fell in love with the French Riviera.   For five days, we drove to every possible nook and corner from Menton to Cannes.   We were fascinated with the villages on the Corniches, like La Turbie, crowned by the enormous Trophee  d’Auguste, built more than 2000 years ago by the Romans to commemorate their victory over the Ligurian tribes.  Also, the village of EzĂ©, with its narrow cobbled streets, bougainvillea-wrapped stone villas and pocket restaurants with excellent Provence food.  

Cap d’Ail is a beautiful town between the sea and the mountains.  It is situated across the bay from Monte Carlo, and up to the early years of the last century, it was considered part of La Turbie.  In 1908, it became a town in its own right and was renowned due to its famous residents, who built stately villas along the rugged coastline or the beautiful beaches.  Among them were Lord Beaverbrook, who often invited Winston Churchill, Greta Garbo, the Russian Royal family, Sacha Guitry and other celebrities.      

We were charmed by Beaulieu-sur-Mer, which is situated on the ancient Greek port of Anao.   Later the Romans built fabulous villas there, with marble and mosaic floors.  

 I read, that at the beginning of the 20th century, this wonderful resort became popular with European Royalty and celebrities of the world, who built, there, large luxurious homes.  One of these is the Greek Villa Kerylos.   In 1902, Theodore Reinach of the banking family, an archaeologist and a lover of Greece commissioned an elegant villa to be built, based on the design of a 2nd-century B.C. residence, on the  Greek island of Delos.   The exterior is austere but the interior is  rich and tasteful.  Corinthian and Doric columns of Carrara marble adorn some of the rooms.   Beautifully designed multicoloured mosaics and priceless frescoes ornate the villa.  The furniture was made by master cabinet makers and resemble authentic ancient pieces.   Even the gardens we planted with cypresses and pine trees, olive, pomegranate and fig trees, vines and  oleanders, lavender, rosemary, sage and thyme and many other plants and herbs of the Greek flora.

Unfortunately, we only saw the exterior of the villa.   But in 1967, it was classified as a National Monument and it is now a Museum, open to the public.




La Turbie
  
La Turbie


Eze




Cobbled Streets at Eze




Lord Beaverbrook's Villa - Cap d'Ail



Winston Churchill's Painting of a Beach on the French Riviera





The Russian Princesses Property





Greta Garbo's Stately Home




Edmond's Restaurant
One of the Oldest  Restaurant in Cap d'Ail



Mala Beach in Cap d'Ail




The Mediterranean Lapping the Rocky Coast in Cap d'Ail



Greek Villa Kerylos in Beaulieu

The Luxurious Villa Kerylos





We visited the fishing village of Villefranche-sur-Mer and were charmed by its beauty, the vibrant colours of the houses and the boats in the bay.  It was then, in 1956 that Jean Cocteau started restoring the chapel of Saint Pierre de Pecheurs, a beautiful small church of Roman style, and decorating it with his fabulous frescoes.   But to return to the object of this blog, we also enjoyed an unforgettable bouillabaisse and other tasty seafood delicacies.  

Villefranche-sur-Mer is part of the County of Nice and is about 10 km South West of Monaco.   The bay is one of the deepest is the Mediterranean and is, therefore, considered a safe haven for large ships, since the beginning of times.   The town is built amphitheatrically on the sloping mountains, surrounding the bay.

We were told that during the prehistoric period it was inhabited by Celto-Ligurian tribes.   The Greeks and later the Romans, often, used this marvelous natural habour on their way to and from the Greek settlements in the W. Mediterranean.   Later the area was part of Lotharingia and in the 12th century, it became part of Province.   In 1295, the Duke of Anjou convinced the inhabitants to settle closer to the coast in order to secure the area from the pirates.  Then, Villefranche was compensated with privileges and became a “free port”.    In 1388, East Province became part of the Duchy of Savoy, and for the next 400 years, it was an area disputed between the Holy Roman Empire and the French.

Meanwhile, in 1543, the Franco-Turkish armies sacked and occupied the port, after the siege of Nice.    After the Ottomans were driven out, a Citadel and a Fort were built on Mount Alban, to fortify the region.   

During the 18th century, Villefranche lost its naval importance as a new harbour was built in Nice, but it remained a military and naval base.  In 1793, the French occupied Villefranche and the County of Nice and it remained part of the Napoleonic Empire until 1814.   Finally in 1860, it was given to France, after a plebiscite.   It, also, became a prized winter residence for royalty and the rich and famous.

The old harbour of La Darse is now a marina for yachts.  It is also the site for the “Observatoire Oceanographique de Villefranche” of the Pierre and Marie Curie University, of Paris and the French National Centre for Scientific Research.  



Villefranche-sur-Mer



Villefranche-sur-Mer Harbour



Saint Pierre des Pecheur Decorated by Jean Cocteau


Interior of Saint Pierre des Pecheur  -  Frescoes by Jean Cocteau


Naive Painting of  Franco-Turkish Ships in the Port of  Villefranche-sur-Mer

The Fort at Mount St. Albans

Leopolda is supposed to be the Most Luxurious Villa in the World 


Stairway to Leopolda

Saint Jean Cap Ferrat, during antiquity, was known by the Greeks as Anao.  Like all the region, it was then inhabited by Celto-Ligurian tribes and later by Lombards.   Apparently, by the end of the 6th century, a monk named St. Hospice lived in recluse on the peninsula.

During the Middle Ages, the area was known as Cap-Saint-Hospice after the hermit mentioned above.  The Saracens occupied it and formed a basis for piracy until the 11th century.  By 1388, the territory of the peninsula and the entire County of Nice were given to the Dukes of Savoy (please see Villefranche-sur-Mer).   During the 18th century, it was occupied, off and on, by either the Sardinians or the French.   In 1860, the county of Nice became part of France and by beginning of the last century Saint Jean Cap Ferrat became a commune on its own right, separated administratively from neighbouring Villefranche-sur-Mer.

In the 1920s, due to the mild climate, the serenity, and the beautiful countryside, the peninsula became a favourite winter destination for royalty, aristocracy and the very rich.   

King Leopold of Belgium bought a large plot of land and built several houses and an artificial lake.  The main Residence, Villa des CĂ©dres, had marvelous gardens.  The villa was later owned by Marnier Lapostolle, of Grand Marnier connotations.  Today, it is a botanical garden, known as “Jardin Botanique Les CĂ©dres”.

Also, the Baroness Beatrice Ephrussi Rothschild built a rather ostentatious Italian style Palazzo, now called Villa Ephrussi Rothschild Museum with seven beautiful, lush gardens.  


Saint Jean Cap-Ferrat’s popularity in the 1920s is depicted in Noel Coward’s ditty:

                                             Quite for no reason
                                             I’m here for the season
                                             And high as a kite
                                             Living in error
                                             With Maud at Cap Ferrat
                                             Which couldn’t be right
                                             Everyone’s here and frightfully gay
                                             Nobody cares what people say
                                             Throughout the Riviera


Saint Jean Cap Ferrat has, probably, some of  the most expensive properties in the world and continues to attract the elite of the world.




Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat, Villefranche and Nice

Beautiful Saint Jean Cap Ferrat with Properties for Millionaires

The Marina
Paloma Beach


Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild at Saint Jean Cap Ferrat

Villa des Cedres

                                             Garden at Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild


One of the Seven Gardens at Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
The French Garden 


View of the Garden at the de Rothschild Villa


Another Garden at the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild




Here are few recipes for dishes, typical of the french Riviera:



                                                     BOUILLABAISSE



The Best Bouillabaisse
There are many recipes for bouillabaisse, the famous fish soup of southern France which is usually prepared with three kinds of fish, lobster or large prawns, mussels and scallops.   It is it is usually cooked in a tasty fish stock and served with aioli or rouille, a peppery mayonnaise, and garlic scented croutons.


2 langoustes, cut lengthwise, vein and gravel sac discarded, or
1 kg (2 lb) prawns, deveined
1½ kg (3 lb) fish (bass, scorpion, cod, rockfish) filleted, heads and bones reserved
1 kg live mussels, beards removed and scrubbed
1 kg (2 lb) fresh or frozen scallops cut into halves or quarters (optional)

Court bouillon:
2 tbsp olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
2 leeks, split in half, thoroughly washed and chopped
2 celery stalks, trimmed and sliced
1 fennel bulb, trimmed and chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
3 ripe tomatoes, chopped
1 bouquet garni (1 bay leaf, 12 thyme sprigs, 3 parsley sprigs)
¼ tsp saffron threads
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 kg (2 lb) heads, bones and trimmings
1250 ml (5 cups) water
750 ml (3 cups) dry white wine

Rouille:
2 green peppers, roasted and peeled
2 Florina peppers, roasted and peeled
1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped
1 thick slice white bread, torn into pieces
1 egg yolk
1 tbsp mustard
125 ml (½ cup) extra virgin olive oil
Lemon juice to taste
Salt, pepper and a few drops of Tobasco

12 slices of baguette cut on a slant, roasted but not browned, and rubbed with garlic

For the court bouillon, sautĂ© the onion, leeks, celery and fennel in olive oil until soft.   Add the garlic and after one minute the tomatoes, saffron threads, peppercorns, water, wine and the bouquet garni.  Simmer for 30 minutes, and strain, pressing the vegetables with the back of a spoon to extract the juices.

Meanwhile, prepare the rouille.   Place all the ingredients except the olive oil, lemon juice and seasoning in a blender and blend until smooth. Pour in the olive oil in a thin stream,  with the machine running until the sauce thickens.    Taste and add the lemon juice, salt, pepper and tobasco.  Serve the rouille hot, thinned down with two table spoons of fish soup. 

Bring the court bouillon to a bubbling boil, add the lobster and cook for ten minutes.  Add the fish and boil for ten minutes more, then the scallops and mussels and simmer until the mussels open, discarding any that do not.

Place a crouton in each soup plate, cover with pieces of  fish and shellfish and ladle some broth over to moisten.     Serve with aioli or rouille.  



                                                CHAMPIGNONS FARSIS AU CRABE
                                                           (Crab-stuffed Mushrooms )

A Delicate Bite

This is a delicious hors-d'oeuvre prepared with very few ingredients so that the delicacy of the crab- meat is not concealed.

26-30 mushroom caps

Filling:
450g (15 oz) fresh, frozen or tinned crab meat,
45 g (1½ oz) butter
45 g (1½ oz) spring onions or shallots, finely chopped
250 ml (1 cup) or a little more béchamel sauce
1-1½ tsp lemon juice, to accentuate the taste
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
½ tsp Dijon mustard
Grated cheese of your choice for sprinkling over 
A little butter for brushing the dish


Pre-heat over to 180 C (350 F).

Place the mushrooms caps on a large baking dish, lined with buttered baking parchment.  Sprinkle the inside of the mushrooms with salt, and freshly ground white pepper.

For the stuffing, discard any pieces of cartilage from the crab meat and shred it with a fork.  Melt the butter, over medium heat, add the chopped spring onions or shallots and cook stirring constantly until soft.  Add the shredded crabmeat and cook for just one minute and transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

Add the bĂ©chamel sauce (please see recipe below)* then season with lemon juice, Dijon mustard, salt and freshly ground pepper and stir to combine well together.  Fill the mushroom caps to the brim.  Sprinkle with cheese.   Bake, in the top part of the oven, for 10-15 minutes or until the mushrooms are tender, when tested with a sharp knife, and the stuffing is bubbly.
Serve piping hot, with a zesty green salad.

 *BĂ©chamel Sauce:
30 g (1 oz or 2 tbsp) butter
1 bay leaf
2 tbsp plain flour
250 g (1 cup) hot milk
1 tsp grated nutmeg
Salt and pepper to taste

2 tbsp grated San Mihalis, kefalotyri or Parmesan, optional
Extra hot milk, if necessary
1 beaten egg, optional

Melt butter, over medium heat, add the bay leaf and sift the flour over, and stir for 3-4 minutes.  Gradually add the milk whisking constantly until the sauce, thickens and bubbles.   Discard the bay leaf and season with salt pepper and nutmeg.  Add more hot milk for a thinner consistency.  Add the grated cheese, if using.   For a richer sauce, cool the sauce and add a beaten egg.




                                                          CREPES.
            
                                                   
Crepes Stuffed Wit

With some imagination, crepes can be transformed into a gourmet dish! Try stuffing them with spinach, seafood, mushrooms or with a summer Mediterranean combination such as eggplant, tomato, feta and basil.

Crepes Batter:
175 g (1 cup + 1 tbsp) flour
3 eggs, beaten
300 ml (1 ¼ cup) milk
150 ml (¾ cup) water
1 tbsp melted butter
1-2 tbsp brandy or dry vermouth
Salt and pepper to taste
Butter + olive oil to fry the crepes

Pseudo-Velouté Sauce:
90 g (3 oz) butter
60 g (2 oz) plain flour
1 bay leaf
500 ml (2 cups) hot chicken stock
250 ml (1 cup) double cream + more if necessary
¼ tsp nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tsp lemon juice to accentuate the taste


 Spinach Stuffing:
½ kg (1 lb) frozen spinach or
1 kg (2 lb) fresh spinach

2 spring onions, finely chopped
1 tbsp dill, chopped
2 tbsp butter
250 ml (1 cup) veloute sauce
8 tbsp grated San Mihalis, kephalotyri or Parmesan cheese
Nutmeg to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste


Shrimp Stuffing:
500 g (1 lb) shrimp, shelled, de-veined, washed and dried with kitchen paper
Olive oil
1 knob of butter
1 clove garlic
1 twig tarragon or rosemary
1 onion, finely chopped
1 liqueur glass brandy
250 ml (1 cup) velouté sauce + more, if necessary
8 tbsp grated San Mihalis, kefalotyri or Parmesan
Freshly ground pepper or
1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper, optional
A little salt

Mushroom Stuffing:
500 g (1 lb) white mushrooms (champignon de Paris) trimmed and finely chopped
10 dry Porcini mushroom, soaked, squeezed dry and chopped
1 tbsp butter
1 onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
375 ml (1½ cup) veloutĂ© sauce or more, if necessary
Salt and pepper to taste

250 ml - 500 ml (1-2 cups) cream
2 tbsp grated San Mihalis, kefalotyri or Parmesan

First prepare the pancake batter.   Place the flour in a bowl and add eggs and mix well and then add milk and water slowly, stirring until well combined.   Stir in the brandy and melted butter, and season with salt and pepper.   Place in the refrigerator, covered, for at least 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the pseudo-veloutĂ© sauce (I call it pseudo because the egg-yolks  have been removed from the ingredients).   Melt butter, add the bay leaf, sift in the flour and stir vigorously for 3-4 minutes over medium heat.   Add the chicken stock gradually, stirring all the time, until the sauce bubbles and thickens.  Add salt, pepper and nutmeg and discard the bay leaf.

Meanwhile, prepare the spinach stuffing.   Melt the butter in a saucepan and add spring onions and cook a little until soft. Then add the spinach and cook over low heat, stirring from time to time, until the spinach is cooked, and the liquid has evaporated.  Cool a little and chop finely.  Stir in the veloutĂ© sauce, the chopped dill, the grated cheese and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and set aside.

For the shrimp stuffing sautĂ© the clove of garlic and the herb twig in butter for 2 minutes, add the shrimps in one layer and cook in batches, until they just change colour.   Turn them over and cook for one minute more.  Remove the shrimp with a slotted spoon to a dish and sprinkle evenly with a little salt.  Add the onion to the pan and cook stirring, until soft.  Discard the herb twig and the garlic clove, pour in the brandy and continue stirring and cooking so that the alcohol evaporates.  Add the veloutĂ© sauce and the shrimps and mix well together, sprinkle with cheese and taste and add freshly ground pepper, Cayenne pepper (optional) and a little salt, if necessary.

Then prepare the crepes. Heat a small frying pan, brush it well with corn oil and pour in about 125 ml (½ cup) of the crepe batter, off the heat   Swirl the pan around until the bottom of the frying pan is evenly covered with the batter.  Place the frying- pan on the stove again and cook for a few minutes
or until the pancake comes away from the pan and, expertly flip it over (I can’t) and cook for 2 minutes more.  Place each crepe separately, until cold.   

 Spread each crepe with two tablespoonfuls any of the above fillings, roll it up and place in a buttered baking dish.   Pour the cream over and sprinkle with grated cheese. Place the crepes in a hot oven 230 C (450 F) until cheese melts and bubbles.  Do not overcook (about 10-12 minutes at the most).

    

                                                           RATATOUILLE




This is a vegetable dish from the South of France, very similar to our Greek briam.  Usually, ratatouille is prepared in a saucepan, I prefer it roasted.

2 onions, peeled and cut in sixths or eighths
2 red peppers, stalks and seeds removed, cut into bite-size pieces
1 large aubergine or two smaller ones, cut into bite-size pieces
2 large potatoes, cut in bite-size pieces
2 courgettes, sliced
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tbsp rosemary, chopped
Salt, pepper and Cayenne pepper
½ cup olive oil

2 large tomatoes, skinned, seeded and cubed
1 cup tomato juice
¼ cup basil leaves or
1 tbsp fresh thyme


Mix the first 9 ingredients well together and place on a baking dish, double-lined with baking parchment, in a single layer.  Roast in an oven pre-heated to 180 C (350 F) for about 35-40 minutes, until the vegetables are cooked, but still slightly crunchy.   Then add the tomato cubes, tomato juice and sprinkle with the basil or thyme.  Bake for 12-15 minutes more.   Serve warm or cold.


                                                    GREEN ASPARAGUS TART



Ready to Eat


This is a tasty first dish.   Four slices of smoked ham could be used instead of bacon.

Pastry:
250 g (½ lb) self-raising flour and a little extra if necessary
A pinch if salt
150 g (5 oz) iced butter, cubed
1 egg
1 tbsp brandy

Filling:
½ kg (1 lb) green asparagus trimmed and hard parts snapped off and reserved
A knob of butter

4 rashes of bacon, chopped, sautéed placed on kitchen paper to drain

2 tbsp dried bread crumbs, mixed with
2 tbsp of the same grated cheese used in the sauce

Sauce:
2 tbsp butter
1 bay-leaf
3 tbsp flour
500 ml (2 cups) hot milk
Asparagus pulp (please see below)
Grated nutmeg
2 tbsp mild kasseri or Cheddar, thickly grated
2 eggs, separated, whites whipped to soft peaks with a pinch of salt
2 tbsp thick Greek yogurt
Salt, if necessary and freshly ground pepper

First prepare the pastry.  Mix flour and salt and rub in the flour until it resembles bread crumbs.  Add the egg and brandy and knead for 3-4 minutes until a smooth, rather soft dough is obtained.  Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, simmer the asparagus spears (and the reserved hard parts) in salted water, until cooked but still slightly crunchy. Then strain and pat dry.   Blend the hard parts of the asparagus, with a hand blender and sieve, pressing with the back of a spoon, in order to extract all the pulp and juices and set aside.   There should be about 250 ml (1 cup) thick asparagus pulp.   Also sautĂ© the asparagus spears in butter.

For the sauce, melt the butter, add the bay leaf and sift in the flour, stirring for 3-4 minutes, over gentle heat, in order to prevent the taste of uncooked flour.   Pour in the hot milk, gradually, stirring vigorously until the sauce is and thick and bubbly.   Discard the bay leaf and add the asparagus pulp and simmer stirring for 2-3 minutes more, fold in the nutmeg and the cheese and remove from the fire to cool.   Mix the egg yolks with the yogurt and add them to the cool sauce.   Taste and add a little salt if necessary and freshly ground pepper.   Gently fold in the egg whites.

Roll out the pastry, thinly, and line a 30 cm (12 inch) buttered, round tart dish.   Prick the pastry all over with a fork and sprinkle with the dried breadcrumb/grated cheese mixture.   Scatter the bacon on top and place the sautĂ©ed asparagus tips evenly over.   Finally spoon the sauce over and level the surface.   Bake in an oven, preheated to 180 C (350 F), for about   35-40 minutes, until golden and puffy.  Serve with a green salad.


                                                        COQ AU VIN



One Of  My Favourite



This is a lovely dish from the cooking of Provencial France.  Start a day before you need it.

2 tbsp olive oil
8-10 rashes lean bacon, fat removed and cut in half
12 or more shallots, peeled

2 chickens 2 ½ -3kg (5-6 lb) drumsticks and thighs, skinned only
                                              Breasts skinned, boned, cartilage removed
                                              Cut into serving pieces
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
62.5 ml (¼ cup) Cognac or Metaxa brandy
750 ml (1 bottle) Agiorgitiko red wine or Pinot Noir
250 ml (1 cup) tasty hot chicken stock
2 tbsp tomato paste diluted in ¼ cup chicken stock
1 bouquet garni ( 2 sprigs thyme – 2 small sprigs rosemary – I bay leaf)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

500 g (1 lb) champignons de Paris
½ tsp olive oil
Little salt

Beurre manié:
1 tbsp flour
1 tbsp butter at room temperature together
(mix together until smooth cover and refrigerate)



In a large saucepan, sautĂ© the bacon in 1 tbsp olive oil until crisp and place on kitchen paper to drain.  Then, sautĂ© the shallots until golden and reserve.

SautĂ© the chicken in batches, with the remaining olive oil for 4- minutes on each side.  Remove most of the fat from the saucepan, add the garlic and simmer until soft.  Add the brandy and cook briskly, stirring to deglaze the saucepan and remove from the fire.   Arrange the drumsticks and thighs in the saucepan and return to the stove.   Pour in the wine and cook for a few minutes.  Sprinkle with the shallots and add the stock, tomato paste, bouquet garni, a little salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Cover the saucepan and simmer for twenty minutes.   Place the chicken breasts and the bacon on top, making sure that they are submerged under the sauce. Add a little more stock, if necessary. Cover and simmer very gently for thirty minutes more.  Cool and refrigerate.

The next day heat a frying pan and cook the mushrooms in olive oil, over high heat, until cooked and dry.   Sprinkle with a little salt and tip them into the saucepan.   Heat the coq au vin, taste and season if necessary.  Arrange the chicken, shallots, bacon mushrooms, attractively, on a warm serving dish   

Thicken the sauce with a tiny piece of beurre manie in the beginging, simmer the sauce, whisking constantly, until the desired thickness is achieved.   Pour the sauce over the chicken, shallots, mushrooms and bacon, and serve immediately with creamy mashed potatoes.  Garnish with one of the herbs used in the bouquet garni,  




                                                 ORANGE GATEAU

Orange Gateau with Orange Icing

This is a recipe for a delicious dessert that we first tasted in Menton in 1956 and is a great favourite of my family and friends.

250 g (½ lb) butter
400 g (2 cups) sugar
2 heaped tbsp thickly grated orange rind
5 medium sized eggs


390 g (3 cups) plain flour, sifted with
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
A generous pinch of salt

62.5 ml (¼ cup) fresh orange juice, mixed with
187.5 ml (¾ cup) yogurt
Vanilla

Syrup:
125 ml (½ cup) sugar
125 ml (½ cup) fresh orange juice
1-2 tbsp orange liqueur, optional

Orange icing:
Mix:
2 cups or more icing sugar
1 tsp finely grated orange rind
2 tbsp fresh orange juice
A tiny pinch of salt



Beat butter, sugar and salt until light and fluffy.   Stir in the grated orange rind and the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.

Add the flour and yogurt mixtures alternately to the batter, mixing thoroughly until well combined.

Place in a round tin, lined with baking parchment, and bake in an oven preheated to 180 C (350 F)  for 35 minutes or until a tester, inserted in the middle of the cake comes out clean.
After 10 minutes, invert the cake on an attractive serving dish.

While the cake is baking, prepare the syrup.   Simmer the sugar with the fresh orange juice, stirring until the sugar dissolves.  Remove from the heat and stir in the orange liqueur, if using.   With a spoon dribble the syrup over the cake.

Also prepare the orange icing, and when the cake is completely cold, spread evenly.   Garnish the gateau with crystallized orange slices.