Simla 1946-1947 - Memories

After the end of the Second World War, when the occupation forces left Greece, my parents and I returned to India, where my father worked.   I spent January and part of February1946, in Karachi, meeting old friends and rediscovering familiar places.  At the beginning of the new academic year, I was packed off to boarding school, in Simla, but I so hated leaving home.

          The journey from Karachi to Simla took 2 days, via Lahore, Ambala and Kalka, a small town at the foot of the Himalayas.   There, we boarded a narrow-gauge train that took us, for six hours, through 102 tunnels over 869 bridges, over deep ravines and beautiful hillsides to our destination.

          Simla did not resemble any other town or hill station, in India. The Mall, the main road, with its tea shops and stores, Christ Church Cathedral with its Tudor-styled belfry, the esplanades and the houses with their immaculate gardens all seemed so evidently and typically English, the only dissimilarity being the pitter-patter of the rickshaws and the monkeys on the trees.      

         Simla was, then, the official summer capital of the British Raj.  From April to September each year, the whole government, from the Viceroy to the most junior secretary moved from Delhi to Simla.   Of course the Foreign Missions, Embassies and Civil Service functionaries, all followed, giving Simla five months of remarkable elegance and glamour.

          The school was a wisteria clad brick building, built high on a wooded hill.  Its tin roof was often stampeded by hordes of monkeys, that sounded like sudden bolts of thunder.   The view from the windows was magnificent.   There were snowy peaks in the background, changing colour all day long, and fir forests and emerald slopes tinged with rhododendrons, bordering the school premices.   

          I loved the school.  The teachers were excellent, the girls pleasant, and we learned a lot, while having fun.  We played tennis and net ball, took music, dancing and elocution lessons, participated in choirs and plays, went on excursions and had “socials” (dancing parties) with the Bishop Cotton School boys.   In the beginning when I first arrived at Auckland, the nights were dark and heart-breaking as I sobbed myself to sleep, I was so terribly homesick.   But, I soon recovered, became stronger and enjoyed every moment.

       When we returned to Simla for the new school year, in February 1947, the first thing we noticed was that most of our British schoolmates had left.  In April, serious, secrete discussions were taking place, at the Viceregal Lodge, right next to us;  Lord Louis Mountbatten, the last Viceroy of India, and Jawaharlal Nehru were debating on themes of freedom and partition.   As the year wore on, letters, from home stopped coming.  It was only, on the 15^th August, when we gathered at the front portal, that we were told what had happened.  The Sub-Continent was free from the British rule, but partitioned into two states, Hindu India and Muslim Pakistan.  The Union Jack was lowered slowly down the mast and the Indian flag proudly took its place.   We were offered sweets to celebrate the occasion.

          Some days later we heard about the massacres that were taking place in the Punjab.  At school, food was rationed to the minimum for over a month.  Chapattis and dhal became our staple food, even for breakfast.  In late September, while taking our 2^nd term exams, we became witnesses to a horrific event that took place on a slope facing our classroom windows.   A whole family was running desperately towards the forest, while a group of turbaned men were chasing after them, their swords flashing in the sun. Unfortunately the family never made it to the safety of the woods.  They were all killed, one by one.

        

          In December, at the end of the school year, the girls whose parents lived in Pakistan, including me, were sent by truck, under military escort, to Lahore.  My farther met us there and escorted us back to Karachi.  Unfortunately I never went back to Simla or Shimla as it is now called.

       Here are a few recipes that remind me of Simla. 

          

         

                                              SIMLA MIRCH

 10-12 green Kerato peppers (I cannot find the botanical name)

Stuffing:

500 g (1 lb) mealy potatoes, scrubbed, boiled until tender and strained

2 tbsp ghee or

1 tbsp butter + 1 tbsp olive oil

Extra ghee or butter and oil for brushing a baking dish

1 tbsp peeled and finely grated ginger root

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 tsp turmeric or more if preferred

½ tsp garam masala (see the “Curry Lunch” post)

½ tsp ground coriander

The seeds of 4 cardamom pods

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper

          Wash and dry the peppers, remove the stalks and cut off the lids from each pepper and remove the seeds carefully.

          Peel the potatoes and mash them to a smooth puree.   Preheat the oven to 180 C (350 F) and brush the bottom and sides of an ovenproof dish with ghee or melted butter and olive oil.

         Sauté the ginger and garlic in ghee or butter and oil, for about 2 minutes then stir in all the spices, except the Cayenne pepper, and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes more.   Add the mashed potatoes and cook gently and stir until all the ingredients are well combined.  Taste and add salt and the Cayenne pepper, if you prefer a spicier stuffing.

          With the help of a long handled teaspoon stuff the peppers, cover with the lids and arrange in rows, in the buttered dish.  Pour about 125 ml (½ cup) water around the peppers, cover with tin foil, and bake for 30 minutes.   Remove the foil, turn over the peppers and bake for 20 minutes more, or until the peppers are tender. Serve immediately.

                                             CHOPATTIS

260 g (2 cups) strong flour

Pinch of salt

About 250 ml (1 cup) water or more if necessary

              Mix the flour and salt together and add the water gradually, just enough to form a firm dough.  Kneed until smooth and cover with cling film and set aside, at room temperature for about one hour.

             Divide the dough into twelve portions and roll out each, into a round sheet about 12 cm (5 inches) in diameter. Cook over medium heat, in a frying pan brushed with a little ghee.   Flatten each chopatti, during the cooking period, until golden on both sides with a few blisters appearing on the surface.    Cut into fourths or sixths before serving.  

                    

                                                 DHAL

              In India no meal is served without dhal.  Each district cooks dhal in a completely different way.  Less spicy in the north, scorchingly so in the south, cooked with or without vegetables, it is definitely a comforting side dish for a hot meal. Served only with rice, it is considered, nutritionally, a perfect combination.

          This is my favourite recipe for dhal, that is delicately spiced.  This dish is equally good cooked with Fava beans, but of course they need their own cooking time and water to just cover. 

A 500 g (1 lb) packet moong dhal, parboiled and strained

2 cloves garlic

4 cm ginger root, peeled and cut in three slices

1 hot chilli pepper

2 tsp turmeric

½ tsp salt

1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper, optional

Salt to taste

1½ tbsp oil

½ tbsp ghee

3 spring onions, finely sliced

½ tsp cumin seeds

½ tsp mustard seeds

          Cover the parboiled the moong dhal with 2 litres (8 cups) of cold water, bring to the boil and skim thoroughly.  Add the garlic, ginger, chilli, turmeric and salt, lower the heat, partly cover the saucepan.  Simmer gently for about 1-1½ hour, stirring occasionally, until the dhal has become a smooth puree. After 45 minutes, discard the chilli pepper and continue cooking.  Check the consistency of the dhal and either reduce to thicken it, or add some boiling water to thin it down.  Taste and add salt (about a teaspoon) and Cayenne pepper, if necessary. (Use a rod blender for a smoother texture, if you prefer).

          Sauté the spring onions in oil and ghee, and stir until the onions are golden.   Then stir in the cumin and mustard seeds and a tiny pinch of salt and cook for 3 minutes more. Then overturn the onion mixture into the dhal, stir and simmer for 1-2 minutes more. Taste once more and adjust to perfection.

STRAWBERRY PAVLOVA

            Obviously this is not an Indian dessert, but if Simla was a dessert it would certainly be a delightfully chewy Strawberry Pavlova

6 whites of medium eggs

A pinch of salt

300 g (10 oz) caster sugar

1 tsp vinegar to make the meringue more chewy (optional)

1 tsp vanilla essence

500 g (1 lb) whipped cream

500 g (1 lb) hulled strawberries, the half, sliced

60 g (2 oz) dark melted chocolate or milk chocolate if preferred

          Whip the egg whites with a little salt to the soft peak stage, add the sugar by the spoonful, whipping continuously until thick and glossy.  Add the vinegar, if using, and the vanilla and beat for a minute more, until well combined.

         Trace two circles about 26cm (10 in) in diameter each, on baking parchment, slightly brush with oil and place on a baking tin.  Pipe the same amount of meringue to fill each circle, and bake in an oven preheated to 150 C (285 F) for about 1 hour.  Then turn off the oven, and remove the meringues, only, when they are completely cold.

         Place one meringue round on a serving dish, spread with 1/3 of the whipped cream and the sliced strawberries, and cover with the second round.  Garnish the Pavlova, attractively, with the remaining whipped cream and the whole strawberries, dipped in melted chocolate.     

  

      

   

              

         

         

Crisis in the Middle East

The crisis in the Middle East is especially dangerous, as there is extended turbulence in the area, more than ever before.

          Syria is plunged deep in civil war, with no end to the tragedy, the consequences being the countless dead and wounded, and the cities and towns flattened, daily, into smithereens.

         In Jordan there is unrest, similar to one that existed in the N. African countries of the Arab Spring, with frequent, angry demonstrations against King Abdullah’s regime.

         The worst is the conflict between Israel and the Palestinians, which has recently flared up into an extremely dangerous situation.   By launching missiles and bombing each other’s cities ceaselessly, result in numerous casualties, heavy destruction and hate and anger on both sides.  The world is deeply alarmed, and Egypt, backed by the Arab League and Turkey, is trying to persuade both parties to a cease-fire.

       Let us all hope and pray for prudence and peace to prevail in all countries concerned, for their own security and that of the world.

          I’m giving you, below, three of my favourite Middle Eastern recipes and a few others made with pulses and grains.

FELAFEL

250 g (½ lb) skinned chickpeas, soaked overnight, and boiled

1 large onion, grated

2 spring onions, very finely sliced

1 clove garlic crushed

1 cup chopped parsley

1 tsp ground coriander

½ tsp baking powder

Salt, freshly ground black pepper

1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper

 2-3 tbsp plain flour

Oil for frying

         Process the first nine ingredients well together into a smooth, thick paste, cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

         Shape the chickpea mixture into walnut-sized patties or slightly larger if you prefer, sprinkle with a little flour, removing the excess with your fingers, fry in hot oil until golden brown and place on kitchen paper.   Serve with pita wedges and a green salad.

  

                                                         

  HUMMUS

            This is a lovely Middle Eastern dip, very popular, worldwide, with vegetarians.  Tahini is a preserved sauce made from sesame seeds, sold in vases.

500 g (½ lb) skinned chickpeas, soaked overnight and boiled (liquid reserved)

1-2 cloves garlic

4 tbsp lemon juice or more, depending on taste

2 tbsp tahini

125 ml (½ cup) liquid from the chickpeas or more if necessary

Salt, freshly ground pepper

1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper

1-2 tbsp olive oil and lemon wedges for serving

             Blend the first three ingredients into a smooth paste.  Add the tahini and blend, adding a little liquid from the chickpeas, if the paste is too stiff.  Then season with salt, pepper and Cayenne pepper, according to taste. The consistency of this dip should keep its shape in a spoon. Arrange attractively in a bowl and serve garnished with lemon wedges.

                  

      CHICKPEAS COOKED WITH CHICKEN, WINE AND HERBS

                          

       In Greek Cooking, pulses are, sometimes, a substitute for potatoes, pasta or rice.

 

4 chicken breasts, boned skinned and cut into bite-sized pieces

 Marinade

Salt and pepper

Grated rind of ½ lemon

250 ml (1 cup) dry white wine

1 tbsp bruised tarragon leaves

1-2 garlic cloves, chopped

250 ml (1 cup) chicken broth or more

5 tbsp olive oil

500g (1 lb) chickpeas, skinned

2 large onions, chopped

1 sprig rosemary

250 ml (1 cup) chicken broth

125 ml (1/2 cup) water or more

2 tbsp lemon juice or more according to taste

1-2 tsp flour to thicken the sauce if necessary

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

          Place the chicken in a bowl, add the marinade ingredients and toss thoroughly.   Cover with cling film and refrigerate overnight, turning the chicken over, once or twice.  Also soak the chickpeas overnight.

 

          Next day, remove the chicken from the marinade, and pat dry with kitchen paper.   Strain and reserve the marinade.  Heat half the olive oil in a saucepan and brown the chicken pieces, evenly, on all sides. Discard most of the oil and return all the chicken pieces to the saucepan.  Pour the marinade over and cook for 2-3 minutes, then add the chicken stock and simmer, covered, until almost done.

        Strain the chickpeas, cover with water and bring to the boil. Strain once more, cover with  hot chicken stock and a little water, and  stir in the onions, garlic, rosemary and the remaining olive oil.  Simmer very gently until the chickpeas are tender, but not falling apart.  Then season with pepper and a little salt if necessary and cook for 2 minutes more. 

         
        Finally combine the chickpeas with the chicken and stir, check again for seasoning and adjust.   Add a little lemon juice at a time, tasting, in order to reach the desired acidity.   Simmer for 5 minutes more, to allow the tastes to mingle, and discard the rosemary sprig.   If you wish, you may thicken the sauce with a little flour diluted in 2-3 tbsp cold water and strained into the saucepan.  Then stir and cook for 5-7 minutes more.   Sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper and serve with a salad.

(Serves 6-8) 

             

                              

OCTOPUS WITH BEANS

                                                          

          “Ghigandes” is Greek for giants, also for large dried beans.  If you can’t find these giant beans, try using haricot or butter beans for this dish. They will, of course need their own cooking time.

500g (1 lb) ghigandes, soaked, overnight, in warm water  

1 ½ -2 kg (3 - 4 lbs) octopus, cleaned and thoroughly washed

 A few peppercorns

3 large onions, chopped

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

125 ml (1/2 cup) olive oil or more if liked

2 bay leaves

250 ml (1 cup) dry white wine

2 tbsp tomato paste

250 ml (1 cup) or more warm water

400 g (about 13 oz) - 1 can finely chopped tomatoes, optional

4 medium, ripe tomatoes, skinned, seeded, and cubed

Salt

1/8 – ¼ tsp Cayenne pepper

1-2 tsp sugar, if necessary
2 extra bay leaves

1 cup parsley, chopped

Freshly ground black pepper

          Strain the beans, place them in a pressure cooker and cover with water.   Bring to the boil and strain again.  Return the beans to the pressure cooker and cover with hot water and a little salt.   Lock the lid and simmer gently for 10-15 minutes or, until the beans are almost tender.   (The cooking time in an ordinary saucepan is 45 minutes). 

Strain and set aside.

          Place the octopus in the pressure cooker and cook uncovered until the octopus releases its juices.   Lock the lid and simmer for about 10 minutes, then uncover, turn the octopus over, add the peppercorns and little wine, if necessary, and cook for another 6-10 minutes with the lid locked.  By this time the octopus should be cooked.  If not, give it some extra time.  (The cooking time in an ordinary saucepan is 1-1 ½ hours).    Let the octopus cool a little, remove the dark membrane (but not the suction cups), cut into bite-sized pieces and reserve.

          Heat the olive oil, in a saucepan, sauté the onion, garlic, and bay leaves for a few minutes, sprinkle with salt, douse with wine and cook, stirring for 2-3 minutes more.  Add the Cayenne pepper and finally the tomato paste, diluted in warm water, the chopped, canned tomatoes, if you prefer a thicker sauce, and stir.  Simmer gently until the onions are tender.   Then add the fresh tomato cubes, cook for 5 minutes more, and discard the bay leaves.  Taste the sauce and add more salt, Cayenne pepper and sugar, if necessary. If tinned tomatoes are used you will certainly need more sugar.

       
         Combine the sauce and the beans together, place in an ovenproof dish and tuck the octopus pieces, evenly on top. Place 1-2 bay leaves over.   Cover the dish, and bake in a moderately hot oven, preheated to190 C (375 F) for 25-30 minutes.  Taste once more and adjust with more salt and Cayenne pepper, if necessary.  Serve sprinkled with a little extra virgin olive oil, chopped parsley and freshly ground black pepper.

(Serves 8)

TOMATOES AND PEPPERS STUFFED WITH CRACKED WHEAT

          Cracked wheat is used in Eastern Mediterranean cooking for the last 400 years.   A well-known Greek manufacturer, who produces cracked wheat, mentions that it has a high nutritional value, as it contains proteins, vitamins and vegetable fibres.  Cracked wheat is sometimes used in Greek cooking instead of rice.

6 medium tomatoes, ripe but firm

2 medium-sized yellow peppers

2 medium-sized orange peppers

2 medium-sized green peppers

1 medium eggplant, peeled, cubed and sautéed

12-14 tbsp cracked wheat

2 large onions, finely chopped and sauteed

3-4 spring onions, finely sliced
2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 cup parsley, finely chopped

½ - 1 tbsp mint, finely chopped

1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper

Salt, pepper and sugar to taste

Water or vegetable stock

          Slice off the stem part of each pepper, and reserve.   Discard the seeds and add a pinch of salt in each pepper cup.  Proceed the same way with the tomatoes, remove and reserve the pulp and set aside. Sprinkle the tomatoes shells with salt, pepper and sugar.

         In a large bowl, cube the tomato flesh and add the onions, garlic, eggplant, cracked wheat, herbs, 2 tbsp olive oil, Cayenne, salt, pepper and sugar   Combine everything very well together, taste to check seasoning and adjust, if necessary and stuff the peppers and tomatoes with the mixture.  

          Arrange the stuffed vegetables in a shallow, ovenproof casserole, add 2 cups water or vegetable stock around them. Spoon the remaining olive oil over the peppers, and cover with baking parchment and the lid.  Simmer gently until the cracked wheat is almost cooked.   

          Remove the lid and the baking parchment and bake in a moderately hot oven preheated to 190 C (375 F) for 20-25 minutes, or until the vegetables are slightly brown.

(Serves 6)

TABBOULEH

        There are many recipes for Tabbouleh, this is my favourite given to me by a friend, Aisha Haroon.   It has more herbs and vegetables that the traditional recipe and can be served both as a first or side dish.

120 g cracked wheat, soaked in vegetable stock, for 30 minutes, and strained

250 g (½ lb) firm tomatoes, skinned, deseeded and diced

1 cup chopped parsley

2 tbsp chopped mint

2-3 heaped tbsp finely cubed yellow and red peppers

4-6 spring onions, finely chopped

4 tbsp lemon juice or according to preference

The grated rind on 1 lemon

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper

4-6 tbsp olive oil

          Pat the strained cracked wheat with a kitchen towel to remove any possible moisture and place in large bowl.  Add all the remaining ingredients and toss gently but thoroughly, cover and place in the fridge overnight.

         The next day, taste the tabbouleh and add salt, pepper and lemon juice, if necessary, and stir.  Serve the salad garnished with tender cos lettuce leaves.  Also, when you have only 2-3 tbsp left over, you could sprinkle it over a dressed green salad, just before serving.

             

                              

                                            

         

      

       

            

Aleco's birthday

        The 11^th November is my husband’s birthday.   As the years go by and we advance into deep old age, every birthday seems more special than the previous one and becomes a marvelous excuse for celebration.

         So, on the 11^th November 2012, our children and grandchildren, who are living in Greece, came over for a birthday lunch.  Aleco and I were delighted to see them all together, and as the day moved on, a warm and happy atmosphere prevailed, mainly due to the pleasure we felt in each other’s company, the excellent wine and good, tasty food.

 BIRTHDAY MENU

Smoked Salmon Torte with Prawn Cocktail Filling

Green Salad

Chicken with Rice

 Mushroom Tart

  A Cheese Platter with Grapes

 Meringue with Cream of Chestnut Birthday Cake

SMOKED SALMON TORTE

This is an excellent dish for special occasions. It must be prepared a day ahead.

700 g (1 lb 6½ oz) smoked salmon slices

Cream Cheese Spread

300 g (10 oz) cream cheese

½ tsp horse-radish sauce

1 spring onion, white part only, very finely chopped

The grated rind of 1 lemon

A few drops of lemon, or according to taste

½ tbsp dill, finely chopped

Salt if necessary

750 g (1 ½ lbs) prawns, shelled and de-veined
250ml (1 cup) dry white wine
1 sprig rosemary

2 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed and boiled in salted water

1 carrot, scraped and cubed and boiled in salted water

1½ cup good quality mayonnaise mixed with

1 tbsp tomato ketchup and

1 tbsp finely chopped sweet gherkin

½ cup parsley, chopped

Salt and freshly ground white pepper

2 romaine lettuces, the tender inner leaves only, trimmed and chopped

2 lemons, finely sliced, and then halved and

Parsley sprigs for garnishing

           First mix all the Cream Cheese Spread ingredients, well together, until soft and set aside.

          Cook the prawns, in a single layer, in wine and rosemary, for 2 minutes on each side.   Sprinkle with a little salt and pepper and set aside to cool, on kitchen paper.

          Combine the potatoes with the carrots and fold in 2/3 of the mayonnaise/ketchup/gherkin mixture.  Sprinkle with parsley and freshly ground pepper.  Taste and add salt if necessary.

          Line a 30 cm (12 inch) diameter, 5 cm (2 inch) deep, mould with cling film, leaving the excess hanging over.   Cover the film with the smoked salmon slices, forming an attractive design and leaving the excess hanging over.  Then spread the smoked salmon thinly with part of the cream cheese mixture. 

        Spoon half the amount of the potato and carrot salad over the salmon, and level the surface.  Tuck in the prawns, spoon in the remaining potato mixture over and spread with the reserved mayonnaise.

       Place the lettuce on top and press gently, with your fingers.  Spread the smoked salmon that is hanging over the mould with the remaining cream cheese and fold over the lettuce.  Place extra pieces of smoked salmon to patch possible gaps. Then cover tightly with the film that is hanging over, and place in a plastic bag and seal well.  Refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight.

    One hour before serving, unfold the cling film from the salmon torte, and carefully reverse it on a serving dish.   Garnish with lemon slices and parsley sprigs, cover and refrigerate.   Serve with a green salad.

(Serves 8-10)

                                             

CHICKEN WITH RICE

            

 This dish is very popular with both children and grown-ups.                                    

1½ kg (3 lb) chicken, skinned

1 onion studded with 2 cloves

2 tender celery stalks with leaves

2 carrots, sliced

1 lemon slice

1 bay leaf

1 slice fresh ginger, peeled

Salt

5-6 pepper corns
3-4 cardamom pods, split

Rice

2 tbsp butter

1 small onion grated

450 g (2 cups) long grain rice

About 83 ml (1/3 cup) white wine

750 ml (3 cups) hot chicken stock, or more
Salt if necessary, freshly ground  white pepper

Sauce

4 tbsp butter

4 heaped tbsp cornflour
1 bay leaf

750 ml (3 cups) warm chicken stock or more for a thinner sauce

2 egg yolks, whipped with

125 ml (1/2 cup) cream

A pinch of nutmeg

1 tsp lemon juice or according to taste

Grated Parmesan or any other hard cheese of your choice for serving

            Cover the chicken with salted water, bring to the boil and skim thoroughly.   Add the rest of the ingredients, cover and cook for about 1-1 ½ hours until the chicken is tender. Remove from the fire and cool.   Remove the bones from the chicken and cut into bite-sized pieces, strain and de-grease the stock and set aside.

            Prepare the rice.  Sauté the onion with 1 tbsp butter until the onion is almost soft.   Add the rice and stir for 1-2 minutes until well coated with butter.  Pour in the wine, stir and let it evaporate.   Then add the hot chicken stock, cover the pan, and simmer very gently, until the liquid has evaporated and the rice is cooked “al dente”, taste for seasoning and adjust.  Add the remaining butter and toss carefully with a fork.

            For the sauce, melt the butter, add the bayleaf and cornflour and stir for 2-3 minutes, over low heat.   Add the warm stock in portions,  whisking each time, until the sauce has thickened.   Add the nutmeg, correct the seasoning, add some hot stock, if necessary, and barely simmer 10 minutes more, stirring occasionally.   Remove the saucepan from the fire and discard the bayleaf.   Mix the beaten egg yolks with the cream, stir a ladleful of sauce into the egg mixture, and very carefully, stir it back into the saucepan, whisking constantly.  Sprinkle with the lemon juice and simmer, stirring until well mixed together.   Do not boil.

           Arrange the chicken pieces in a heated serving dish, over a bed of rice.   Cover with half the sauce and sprinkle with grated cheese.  Serve with the remaining sauce, and extra grated cheese. (Serves 5-6)

MERINGUE WITH CHESTNUST CREAM FILLING

         This is the easiest dessert you could possible make and a sure hit. I buy the meringues and whipped cream from one of the top pastry shops in our neibourhood, the chestnut jam from the super market, and the marrons deguises from a chocolate shop that specializes in excellent hand made chocolates.

2  25 cm (10 inch) diameter meringue bases

500 g (1 lb)  unsweetened whipped cream

370 g (about 2 1/3 oz) chestnut jam

about 50 g (l 2/3 oz)  melted dark chocolate

4-5 marrons deguises (chocolate covered chestnuts)

           Prepare the chestnut cream.  Empty the chestnut jam into a small bowl, stir until soft and fold in 4 large tablespoonfuls of whipped cream. Taste for sweetness and add more cream if necessary.

      

           Place a meringue base on a serving dish and spread with half the chestnut cream. Sandwich with the second meringue base, spread with the remaining chestnut cream and level the top evenly. 

           Make a few zig-zag patterns with the melted chocolate on top of the cake, and refrigerate until the chocolate hardens. 

          Cut the chocolate covered chestnuts in slices (they resemble flower petals) and decorate the cake.   With the help of a piping bag cover the sides of the cake attractively with the remaining whipped cream and refrigerate for at least 2-3 hours, before serving.

(Serves 8-10) 

  

 

      

Cephalonia during the Second World War

Low-level oblique aerial taken from a Bristol Beaufighter as it attacked a small cargo vessel and a naval patrol boat moored in the harbour at Fiskardho on the island of Cephalonia, Greece.

          The Second World War found us on leave, on the Ionian Island of Cephalonia.   We tried to return to India, where my farther worked, but it was difficult and extremely dangerous, so we were stranded in Argostoli, the capital of the island, for over four years.

          My parents went through very difficult situations.   Our home was requisitioned by the Italians on the 21^st December, 1941.   So we lived in poverty, like most Greeks did, throughout the Italian and the German occupation.   We returned to India after the war, leaving our beautiful island wounded and ravaged.  

         Unfortunately, Cephalonia was completely destroyed again, in August 1953, by a monster earthquake this time.  But due to the resilience and diligence of my fellow countrymen, the island totally recovered in period of 10-12 years, and is beautiful and inviting, once more, so do visit whenever you can.

       I’m giving you a few recipes that typical of the island’s cooking.

  

                     

CARAMEL ALMOND SQUARES FROM CEPHALONIA

These almond squares are called “barboule” and they keep fresh for about a month, layered in biscuit tins, with greaseproof paper in between.

1 kg (2 lb) sugar

½ -1 tsp lemon juice

½ kg (1 lb) almonds, peeled and dried in a hot oven for 5-7 minutes

Corn oil for the dish

          Melt the sugar with the lemon juice, over very low heat until the syrup turns light golden in colour.

  

       Add the almonds and mix thoroughly.  When the mixture starts simmering again, transfer to an oiled baking sheet and spread evenly.  It should not be over 1cm (about 1/3 in) thick.   Let the caramel cool slightly and cut evenly, in bite-size squares.     

                                             

CEPHALONIAN MEAT PIE

                                                 

           This is one of the better-known Greek pies.

Pastry

500 g (1 lb) all-purpose flour

1 tsp salt

¼ tsp mustard powder

160 ml (about 2/3 cup) warm olive oil

250 ml (1 cup) warm wine

Cornflour for rolling out the dough

2 tbsp olive oil, mixed together with

1 beaten egg

Filling

500 g (1 lb) lamb, fat removed and cut into tiny cubes and sautéed

500 g (1 lb) veal, fat and gristle removed and cut into tiny cubes and sautéed

4 tbsp short grain rice

1 onion, finely chopped

1-2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 medium potatoes, cut is small cubes

100 g (1 cup) kephalotyri or Parmesan, grated

4 tsp fresh marjoram, finely chopped

4 tsp parsley, finely chopped

2 tomatoes, skinned, seeded and cubed

2 tbsp olive oil

125 ml (½ cup) red or white wine

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp ground cinnamon

Nutmeg to taste

250 ml (1 cup) meat stock

60 g (2 oz) kephalotyri or pecorino cut into tiny cubes 

2 tbsp butter

             Sift flour, salt and mustard powder in a large bowl, pour in the olive oil and rub it in the flour mixture with your fingers. Pour in the wine and knead well to form a soft, pliable dough. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before using.

    

            For the filling mix all the ingredients well together in a bowl, (except the cubed cheese, meat stock, and butter) cover and refrigerate overnight.

    

            On a surface, sprinkled with cornflour, roll out 2/3 of the dough as thinly as possible.  Drape it over a generously oiled baking tin, 30 cm (12 inches) in diameter.  Spoon in the filling and level the top, pour enough meat stock over, to barely cover, tuck in the cheese cubes evenly, and dot with butter.

           Roll out the remaining dough, cover the pie, press the edges together to seal and score 2-3 slits on top in order to allow the pie to breathe. Brush with the olive oil and egg mixture and bake in an oven pre-heated to180 C (350 F) for about 1 hour or until golden brown.  Serve with a green salad.

(Serves 10-12)

 LIVER COOKED WITH LEMON AND SUGAR FROM CEPHALONIA

                            

           If you like liver, do try this dish.

1/2 kg (1 lb) liver, trimmed and cut into small slices 1.25 cm (1/2 inch) thick

Flour

About 60 ml (1/4 cup) olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp or more sugar, diluted in

2 tbsp lemon juice, or according to taste, and

125 ml (1/2 cup) water or more

            Dip the liver in the flour and shake off the excess.   Heat the olive oil in a frying-pan, and fry the liver for 2-3 minutes on each side.  Do not overcook.  Sprinkle with salt, remove from the frying-pan and keep hot.

           Discard almost all of the oil from the frying-pan.   Pour the lemon, sugar and water mixture into the pan scraping off any brown bits.  Stir and boil the sauce briskly, and taste and adjust with lemon, water and sugar, if needed.

 

          Return the liver to the frying pan and heat it thoroughly, making sure that each slice of liver is coated with the sauce.   Taste once more and add some salt, if necessary, and freshly ground black pepper.  Serve with a salad of your choice and warm, crusty bread.

(Serves 6-8)  

                                     

 COURGETTES WITH FETA

                                                

1 kg (2 lb) courgettes, thickly sliced

120 ml (½ cup) olive oil

1 onion, grated

1 clove garlic, crushed

A small sprig of fresh sage

3 ripe tomatoes, halved, seeded, grated, skins discarded

1 tsp sugar

125 g (4 oz) feta cheese, cubed

Salt and pepper to taste

          Lightly sauté the courgettes in olive oil with very little salt, stir in the onion, garlic and sage, and continue cooking for 5 minutes more.

         Pour in the tomato and sprinkle with sugar and a little salt and pepper.  Simmer for about 20 minutes until the courgettes are tender. Discard the sage.   Taste for seasoning and adjust with freshly ground pepper.  Be sparing with the salt because of the feta being salty. Stir in the cheese, taste once more and add a little salt if necessary.   Serve garnished with fresh sage leaves.

(Serves 4)

                     

         HARE COOKED THE CEPHALONIAN WAY                             

                                                             

          Rabbit, lamb and chicken are also delicious, when prepared this way.   You can hardly taste the large amount of garlic, when cooked.

1 hare, jointed

The juice of 6-8 lemons

Salt and pepper

3 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, grated

2 tbsp tomato paste

1 head of garlic, cloves blanched in their skins, then peeled and mashed

½ tsp peppercorns

500 ml (2 cups) good quality, hot red wine, or more

1 tsp dried oregano or thyme

           Season the hare slightly with very little salt and pepper, place in a glass dish, in a single layer and douse with the lemon juice.  Cover and refrigerate overnight, turning the pieces over once or twice.

          The next day remove the hare from the marinade, pat dry and set aside.  Discard the marinade.

           In a large, flat saucepan, brown the hare in olive oil, then remove and reserve.  In the same saucepan sauté the onion until soft, and stir in the tomato paste, mashed garlic, thyme, salt and the peppercorns.  Return the hare to the saucepan and mix well with the onion/tomato mixture.  Pour in enough warm wine to just cover the hare.  Cover the saucepan, and simmer very gently until the hare is tender (1-2 hours or more), turning over the hare pieces at least once.   

          Taste the sauce and season with salt, if necessary, and freshly ground pepper.  Serve with fried or mashed potatoes and a salad.

(Serves 4)

HONEY PUFFS

                                                    

          These puffs are made with fried choux pastry. 

112 g (1/2 cup) butter

250 ml (1 cup) water

Pinch of salt

130 g (1 cup) flour

4 eggs

Oil for deep frying

Honey or icing sugar

Powdered cinnamon

          Bring the water, butter and salt to the boil and remove from the heat.   Add all the flour together and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the dough forms a ball, then cook, stirring for 5 minutes more.   Remove from the stove and cool a little.   Add the eggs, one at a time, stirring each thoroughly before adding the next.

 

          Heat 5 cm (2 inches) oil in a saucepan – the oil should not be too hot.   Take teaspoonfuls of the mixture and drop into the oil, being careful not to over-crowd, as they will double in bulk.   Fry for about 10-12 minutes.   When they puff up to at least double their size, burst a little, and are golden in colour, they are ready.   They should turn over by themselves.  

         Remove the puffs with a slotted spoon and  place on doubled kitchen paper.   Serve sprinkled with icing sugar or honey and cinnamon.