Cookenjoy: 25th MARCH 1821

Germanos Blessing The Flag by Theodoros Vrysakis 1865

THE GREEK WAR OF INDEPENDENCE

The Greek war of independence was waged successfully by the Greeks against the Ottoman Empire between 1821-1830, years of exaltation but also of bloodshed and carnage.

Several decades before the fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Empire, in 1453, the greatest part of Greece was under the Ottoman rule.

During this period, there were several revolt attempts by the Greeks to gain independence from the Turks. In 1814, a secret society was founded, called Filiki Eteria, whose goal was to liberate Greece. The Filiki Etairia planned to start revolts in the Peloponnese, the Danubian Principalities and in Constantinople and the surrounding area.

The first revolt began on the 6^th March 1821 in the Danubian Principalities but was soon savagely put down by the Turks.

These events encouraged the Greeks from Mani, in the Peloponnese, to declare war against the Ottoman Empire and by October 1821 they had captured Tripolitsa. The Peloponnesian revolt urged the Cretans, the Macedonians and the Greeks of Central Greece to rise against the Turks. Meanwhile, even the makeshift Greek navy was successful in the sea battles fought against the Ottomans, in the Aegean.

Unfortunately, tension developed between various Greek factions, leading to two consecutive civil wars. In the meantime, the Ottoman Sultan and Mehmet Ali of Egypt negotiated and came to an agreement that Egyptian forces would be sent to Greece to suppress the revolt.

They landed in the Peloponnese in February 1825 and were, initially, defeated by the Maniots but by the end of that year, most of the Peloponnese was under Egyptian control. The city of Messolongi fell in April after a year-old siege by the Turks and Athens had been recaptured. The Greeks felt desperate and humiliated by these tragic consequences, although the "insurrection itself quickly became an international media event throughout Europe." European public opinion admired Greece, this small, impoverished country in Southern Europe that bravely revolted against the powerful Ottoman Empire.

Then Russia, Britain and France decided to intervene in the conflict, so each country sent their navy to Greece. When the Ottoman/Egyptian fleets decided to attack the island of Hydra the allied fleet stopped the enemy fleet at Navarino, and after a fierce battle, the Ottoman/Egyptian ships were destroyed.

By 1828, the Turks withdrew under the pressure of a French force to which the Ottoman garrison in the Peloponnese surrendered, while a Greek regiment proceeded to Ottoman-controlled Central Greece.

Greece was, finally, recognised as an independent, sovereign state, under the London Protocol of February 1830. Later, the London Conference and Treaty of Constantinople defined the final borders of the new state, on the 7th of May 1832. Since then, the 25th of March is our national day.

(The information for this post is mainly from Wikipedia, "The Greek War of Independence" by Ioannis Zelepos and "The Greek War of Independence" by David Brewer, all of whom I sincerely thank)

Here, is an appropriate menu to celebrate Independence Day:

Sea Urchin Salad
Fried Salt Cod
Garlic Sauce
Fried Calamari Rings
Pickled Beetroot
Fruit Salad

SEA URCHIN SALAD

(Ahinosalata)

Sea urchin roes are delicacies and apparently aphrodisiacs. Several years ago, it was very difficult to find them, due to overfishing. The Greek governments have, since, applied very strict restrictions on sea urchin fishing during the reproduction period. Today one can buy sea urchin roes, in Greece, without their shells.

I’m giving you, however, the recipe of sea urchins in their shells, the way we enjoyed them in the medieval fortress town of Monemvassia, so many years ago.

6 female sea urchins, their needles must be moving

Seawater

Lemon juice

Mild-tasting olive oil

Snipped chives

Parsley, finely chopped

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

It seems monstrous to kill a living creature in order to eat it, like boiling a live lobster, but, anyway here are the instructions.

Waring special gloves, with a pair of scissors, cut through and around the shell at the mouth opening of each sea urchin, forming a prickly cup. Rinse thoroughly but gently in seawater to remove all the green parts and any sand.

Then, either squeeze some lemon juice over and enjoy this delicious hors d’ oeuvre by the sea or detach the roes, very carefully, with a spoon and place them in a bowl with a little seawater to keep them moist, while you prepare the dressing.

Place them back into their shells, drizzle with latholemono (olive oil and lemon dressing) and sprinkle with snipped chives, chopped parsley and freshly ground black pepper. Serve immediately. with crusty brown bread and a glass of ouzo or a good white wine.

FRIED SALT COD WITH GARLIC SAUCE

Fried salt cod with skordalia is served all over Greece on the 25^th March, the Greek National Day and on Palm Sunday.

1 kg (2 lb) salt cod, cut in serving pieces and soaked in cold water for 24 hours at least, changing the water several times

Corn oil for frying

Frying batter* (please see recipe below)

Remove the skin and bones from the cod and dredge it with flour, shaking off the excess. Dip the pieces in the frying batter for lent and deep-fry until crisp and golden and drain on kitchen paper. Serve immediately with garlic sauce and boiled beetroot salad.

*FRYING BATTER

Coat sliced aubergines or courgettes with flour, shake off the excess and dip them in the following batter. Fry and drain on kitchen paper and serve immediately with garlic sauce. You can also fry courgettes flowers in this batter.

150 g (5 oz) self-raising flour

Salt and pepper

The grated rind of one lemon, optional

1 tbsp olive oil

2 eggs, separated (whites whipped into soft peeks)

120-180 ml (½ - ¾ cup) beer or more, if necessary

Place the flour in a bowl. Add salt, pepper, lemon rind (if using), olive oil and beaten egg yolks and mix very well together. Then, stir in the beer gradually until you have a creamy texture. Set aside to rest for at least ½ hour. When ready to use the batter, fold in the whipped egg whites.

* FRYING BATTER FOR LENT

150 g (5oz) self-raising flour

Salt and pepper

The grated rind of 1 lemon, optional

1 tbsp olive oil

Beer

Combine the flour with salt, pepper, lemon rind (if using) and olive oil, and mix well together. Whisk in enough beer to make a smooth, rather thick batter. Set aside to rest for at least ½ hour before using.

GARLIC SAUCE WITH POTATOES

Alliada

“Alliada”, as garlic sauce is called in the Ionian Islands, is usually served with fried salt cod, fried aubergines and courgettes, and boiled beetroot salad.

3-4 medium waxy potatoes, boiled, peeled and cubed

2 ½ tsp crushed garlic or according to taste

1 scant tsp salt

4-6 tsp lemon juice or according to taste

125 – 250 ml (½ - 1 cup) warm water

2-3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

The traditional way to prepare alliada is to crush the garlic with salt with a pestle and mortar. Add the warm potatoes, a few at a time, and pound well until they form a sticky paste. Stir in the lemon juice, enough warm water and half the amount of olive oil until the sauce is smooth but stiff enough to hold its shape. Naturally, the procedure is much easier and quicker to prepare in a blender or food processor.

Transfer the alliada into a bowl, cover with cling film and chill. Just before serving, sprinkle with remaining olive oil.

GARLIC SAUCE WITH BREAD

Skordalia

250 g (8 oz) day-old bread, crust removed, soaked in water and squeezed dry

2½ tsp crushed garlic, or according to taste

1 scant tsp salt

2-4 tsp wine vinegar, or according to taste

2-3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Blend the first four ingredients together until smooth and creamy. Place in a covered bowl and chill. Just before serving, sprinkle with the olive oil.

FRIED CALAMARI

Calamari needs a little expertise to be cooked to perfection. It must be tenderised and not overcooked. Some cooks pound them gently a few times on each side. Here is another method.

500 g (1 lb) calamari, cleaned and washed, tubes cut into rings and tentacles left whole

½ a lemon, the juice

2 cups plain flour, mixed with

½ tsp Cayenne pepper

½ tsp salt
Freshly ground white pepper to taste

500 ml (2 cups) of milk or less

Corn oil for frying

Place the calamari into a bowl with the lemon juice for 30 minutes in order to tenderise it

Divide the flour mixture into 2 bowls and pour the milk into another bowl. Remove the calamari from the lemon juice and cover each piece in seasoned flour, shaking off the excess, then dip it in milk allowing the excess to dribble off, and then dredge it again in the second bowl of flour. Repeat this procedure with all the calamari.

Fry in batches for about 2-3 minutes total, until the calamari become golden brown and drain on kitchen paper. Sprinkle generously with salt and serve immediately with lemon wedges.

PICKLED BEETROOT

This pickle can last for a month or more in the fridge.

1 kg (2 lb) firm beetroots, boiled or roasted, peeled and sliced

Vinegar brine:

2 cups water

½ cup good wine vinegar

2 tbsp sugar, or according to taste

2 ½ tsp salt, or according to taste

6-10 pepper corns

1 garlic clove, unpeeled (optional)

Olive oil to cover the jar

Some red wine, if necessary

Place the sliced beetroots in a sterilised pickle jar.

Bring the vinegar brine ingredients to the boil, remove the garlic, and pour immediately over the beetroots. If they are not completely covered with brine add a little red wine and set aside to cool. Pour olive oil up to the brim, seal and refrigerate.

After 2 days the pickle is ready.

Serve sprinkled with extra virgin olive oil, and a few capers.

FRUIT SALAD

1 melon, peeled, seeded and cubed

2 cups seedless grapes

4 pears, peeled cored and, cubed

The juice and grated rind of 1 orange mixed with

The juice and rind of ½ a lemon and

2 tbsp honey

Garnish:

2 fresh figs, peeled and cut in four

½ cup walnuts, coarsely chopped

2 sprigs of mint

Mix the first three ingredients together, sprinkle with orange/lemon/honey mixture and lightly toss together. Arrange in an iced bowl and garnish with figs, walnuts and sprigs of mint.