HOME LEAVE 1956 PART I I (Continued)

A Kifissia Tree-Lined  Street

The House in Kefalari, Kifissia

Keeping Kifissia as our base, we started visiting several regions and islands in Greece.  It was April 1956 and we were on home leave.

With our little Fiat Cinquecento, we first toured the Peloponnese.  We drove through beautiful, flowered countryside to Mycenae to see the archaeological site, located 90 km south-east of Athens.

A Map of Ancient Mycenae During its Heyday

The name of Mycenae was given to one of the greatest Greek pre-history civilisations.  According to the traveller/historian Pausanias, the founder and first King of Mycenae was Perseus, a demi-god, son of Zeus and Danae.  His descendants reigned for three generations.  Later the Myceneans chose Atreus, son of Pelops, father of Agamemnon and Menelaos, as their king.

Hellen the Most Beautiful Woman in the World by Evelyn de Morgan

Homer in his epic, the Iliad, describes the cause of the Trojan war.  Helen of Lakonia, the most beautiful woman in the world, wife of King Menelaus of Sparta was abducted by Prince Paris of Troy.   Menelaus convinced his brother Agamemnon, the sovereign of Mycenae, to sail with 1.185  ships and over 142.320 men from all the cities and islands of Greece to fight against Troy, destroy it and bring Helen back to Sparta.

The Mycenean culture dominated mainland Greece, the Aegean and the shores of Asia Minor during the late Bronze Age (circa 1600-1100 BC).  The Mycenaean Era occupies the end of the Helladic Civilisation, which flourished in mainland Greece since 3000 BC.

The Lion Gate Mycenae

The first specification of Mycenae, took place in 1700, during a survey by Francesco Grimani, for the  Despotate of the Morea, who used Pausanias' description of the Lion Gate, to identify the ruins of Mycenae.

The first excavations began by the Archaeological Society of Athens in 1841 AD.

Heinrich Schliemann, during his 1876 excavations in Mycenae, discovered "the rich in gold" Shaft Graves with luxurious jewellery, items in gold, silver and bronze and also precious stones and crystals like lapis lazuli, imported from central Asia.    This unforeseen discovery "changed the history of Aegean prehistoric archaeology".

The Golden Death Mask of Agamemnon

Ulysses Crown 

 Mycenean Jewelry 

Mycenean Gold Goblet

Apparently, from 1600 BC there is evidence that there high-quality pottery and paintings were found on the Mycenean acropolis.

Circa the 14th century BC the first large palace (Megaron) was built, on three levels, decorated with stonework and frescoes.   At the same time, the famous tholos (beehive) tomb, the treasury of Atreus, was constructed, "a monumental circular building with a corbelled roof" approached by a 36 metres long unroofed corridor.   Fortification walls (the north wall still exists today) roads and structures to prevent flooding, such as dams were constructed, linear B tablets were found, all of which indicate that Mycenean culture was then, at its highest peak.   A secondary hall, private rooms and workshops were also built during this period.  Moreover, a  monumental entrance, the Lion Gate, was constructed, with an "18-ton lintel topped by two 3 metre heraldic lions and a column altar".

The Monumental Tomb - The Treasury of Atreus

Details of the Heraldic Lions on the Lion Gate

A Mycenean Tablet in Linea B Script

Linea B Logogram

The first palace of Mycenae was destroyed during the late 13th century BC, probably by monster earthquakes.   A second palace was built with a monumental staircase.  The North Gate and a ramp were added to the Mycenean acropolis and the walls were extended to include the Perseia Spring (named after the city's founder) within the walls.  This second palace was later destroyed by fire.

There was an attempt for a brief revival during the Hellenistic Period, but unfortunately, the decline of this powerful city was evident.  After the fall of Mycenae, Argos became the most powerful city in the region. The reasons for the city's decline are much disputed amongst archaeologists, such as natural disasters, overpopulation, social and political turbulence, and invasions from alien tribes.




After our very interesting tour of ancient Mycenae, my husband and I enjoyed the most delicious meal at a tiny taverna in the small village, called what else Mycenae!

                               

                   

                                 BREAD WITH ONIONS, OLIVES AND FETA

                                    

Warm, Crusty Bread

This is a lovely recipe for bread that keeps fresh for 2-3 days.  Try it also with celeriac or carrots instead of onions.  The best olives to use are the ones stuffed with sun dried tomatoes or pimentos.  This bread can be sliced and successfully dried into rusks, in a slow oven. 

500 g (1 lb) flour

8-10 g (1 tbsp) dried yeast

½ tsp salt

1 medium onion, peeled and chopped

180 g (6 oz) or more feta, crumbled and halved

1 tsp honey, diluted in

250 ml (1 cup) tepid water

1 cup stuffed olives, sliced

In a large, warmed bowl mix the flour with the dried yeast.  Add the onion, salt and half the amount of cheese and mix well.   Then add the water and honey mixture and knead vigorously for 8-10 minutes until the dough becomes elastic but remains soft. 

Place the dough in a clean, warmed mixing bowl, cover the whole bowl with cling film, tea-towels and a small blanket and let it rise, free from draughts until doubled in bulk (about 1 ½ hours).

Punch the dough down and knead it again, add the olives and the remaining cheese.  Shape 2 loaves and leave to prove, on an oiled baking tin, for about half an hour, or until doubled in bulk.  Slash the loaves and brush them with olive oil.    Bake in a hot oven, preheated to 200 C (400 F) for 40 minutes, until golden and crisp. 

                                  
                                         OCTOPUS COOKED IN WINE

Htapodi Crassato 

Octopus is one of the most popular kinds of seafood, in Greece.


1 1/2 kg (3 lb) octopus, trimmed and thoroughly washed
1 tsp peppercorns

125 ml (1/2 cup) olive oil
2 medium-sized onions peeled and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 bay leaf
500 ml (2 cups) red wine, I use a deep red Nemea Agiorgitiko
1 tsp fresh thyme
5 medium sized tomatoes, washed, halved, de-seeded, grated, skins discarded
Freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 tsp Cayenne pepper, optional


Place the octopus in a pressure cooker and cook uncovered until the octopus releases its juices.   Lock the lid and simmer for 6 minutes.   Then uncover and turn the octopus over, add the peppercorns and about 125 ml (1/2 cup) of wine and cook 6-10 minutes more with the lid locked.  By this time octopus should be cooked, if not give it some extra time.  Reserve the cooking liquid for further use.  Let the octopus cool a little, remove the dark membrane (but not the suction cups) and cut it into bite-sized pieces.

Meanwhile, saute the onions, garlic and bay leaf in olive oil until the onion is soft, pour in the wine, the grated tomato, freshly ground black pepper and Cayenne pepper, if using and just enough of the reserved cooking liquid to add taste and saltiness to the sauce.  Cook for about 20-30 minutes until the sauce is cooked and thick.  Place the octopus in the saucepan with the sauce, and simmer for a  few minutes more. and discard the bay leaf.  Taste the sauce and season accordingly.  Serve over rice or any pasta of your choice with a green salad and a glass of the same wine that you used for cooking.

                                       PICKLED BABY ARTICHOKES   

                                         

A Spring Delicacy 

Serve this pickle with fish, meat or poultry or only with fresh, brown bread.  If you like artichokes, do try preparing this very easy recipe.

750 g (1.5 lb) baby artichokes (stems and hard leaves cut off, and chokes removed) or, use frozen baby artichokes

500 ml (2 cups) water

125 ml (1/2 cup) good wine vinegar

1 tsp salt

Olive oil, mild tasting, please see below         

Lemon slices

Place the artichokes in a saucepan, pour in the water, vinegar and salt and bring to the boil.  Lower the heat and cover with baking parchment and the lid, and simmer gently until the artichokes are tender but not falling apart.  Then strain, cool and pat dry with kitchen paper.  

Pile the artichokes in sterilised jars, add 2-3 lemon slices per jar and pour in enough olive oil to cover, and seal.

                                       SPINACH AND CHEESE PIE

                                                       

Spanakopitta

 A traditional recipe for a tasty spinach pie.

1¼ kg (2½ lb) spinach, trimmed, blanched, drained and chopped

1 large onion,  peeled and grated

3 spring onions,  trimmed and finely chopped

2 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp chervil, if available, trimmed and finely chopped

2 tbsp Mediterranean hartwort, if available, trimmed and finely chopped

1 tbsp dill

2 cups feta (if salty soaked in water for 10 minutes), cubed

1 cup Graviera from Naxos or Cheddar, grated

2 eggs, lightly beaten

10 sheets phyllo pastry

2 tbsp dried breadcrumbs

180 g (6 oz)) butter, melted

2 tbsp olive oil to mix with the butter (optional)

Sauce:

3 tbsp butter

3 tbsp flour

1 bay leaf

1½ cup hot milk

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Little salt

Nutmeg, to taste

Sauté the onion and spring onions in olive oil until transparent.   Add the spinach and herbs, pepper and a little salt and simmer uncovered, stirring from time to time, until the liquid evaporates, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the sauce.   Stir the flour into the melted butter, add the bay leaf, and, stirring constantly, cook the roux for 4-5 minutes to prevent the taste of raw flour.  Pour in the hot milk and simmer, stirring until the sauce thickens.  Season with pepper, a little salt and nutmeg, simmer for 7 minutes more and set aside to cool.  Discard the bay leaf.    

In a big bowl, combine the eggs and the two kinds of cheese with the sauce and mix well together.  Stir in the spinach mixture until very well combined.  Taste and add salt, pepper and nutmeg, if necessary, and set aside to cool.

Line a buttered baking dish with five sheets of phyllo pastry, brushing each sheet lavishly with melted butter and sprinkle the last with bread crumbs.  Spoon in the filling, level the surface and fold the overhanging pastry over.   Place another five generously buttered sheets of pastry over the filling, trim the excess and tuck it neatly into the sides of the dish.     Score the surface of the pie into portions, sprinkle with water, and bake in a moderate oven preheated to 190 C (375 F) for about one hour or until the pie is crisp and golden.  

                                                 LEMON MOUSSE

This is a lovely light dessert.

250 g (½ lb) double cream, whipped stiff with

1 tbsp icing sugar or more if necessary and

A pinch of salt, and refrigerated

200 g (1 tub) thick Greek yoghurt

On 395 g (13 3/5 oz) tin sweet, condensed milk

150-200 ml (5–7 fl oz) lemon juice

The grated rind of 1 lemon

Extra grated lemon rind for garnish

Beat the yoghurt to make it creamy. Also, whip the condensed milk with the lemon juice and the grated rind until it resembles a glossy cream. Stir in the yoghurt until very well combined.

Finally, gently fold the whipped cream into the yoghurt/condensed milk mixture, until no white streaks are evident.   Spoon into small glasses and ice.  Serve sprinkled with grated lemon rind.