Preserves

             Food decays very quickly, due to the enzymes and micro-organisms that attack it.   Apparently 10.000 years ago, farmers started using heat and salt to preserve the fruit and vegetables, that they had harvested at the height of perfection, in order to enjoy them, months later.

             Today, home cooks use rather sophisticated but easy preserving techniques and  with the help of heat, salt, sugar, alcohol, vinegar, and oil, produce jams, jellies, marmalades, pickles, olives and chutneys, toffees, and home made liqueurs. As for the Greek Food Industry, it seems like alchemy. The most delicious cured fish, meat, hams, pickles, sauces, cheese, chocolates filled with ganache, praline, gianduia, wines and liqueurs, elaborate jams and jellies are produced.  Fortunately most are exported.

APPLE SPOON SWEET

                                           

            “Firikia” are small, sweet green apples with a delicate aroma.  You could stuff each apple with a  toasted almond if you wish.

1 kg (2 lb) firikia or any other small apples

2 lemons, the juice

1 kg (2 lbs) sugar

625 ml (2½ cups) water

Cloves (one for each apple)

1 cinnamon stick

          Wash, peel and core the apples and cover with water and the juice of a lemon to prevent discolouring.

            Meanwhile prepare the syrup.   Boil the water and sugar with 1 tbsp of lemon juice and the cinnamon stick, for 5-10 minutes.  Drain the apples, pierce the top of each with a clove, and place them in the hot syrup and simmer gently until they are tender.  Remove the saucepan from the fire and set aside for 24 hours.

 

            The next day discard the cinnamon stick and simmer the spoon sweet until the syrup thickens. Taste and add little more lemon juice, if preferred.  

Cool the apples, before placing them in prepared jars.

APRICOT  JAM

             This is a favourite jam.   You can prepare peach jam the same way.

1 kg (2 lb) apricots, halved and stoned

750 g (1½ lb) sugar

               Place the apricots with a little water (about ¼ cup) and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the sugar and cook for 15 minutes more.  Remove the saucepan from the fire and set aside for 24 hours.  The next day simmer for about ½ hour or until the jam thickens.

               Fill prepared jars with the scalding jam, seal and turn them upside down.  Leave them undisturbed until the next day or until they are completely cold.  Then turn the jars over and store them in a cupboard.    When you open a jar, be sure to refrigerate it.

(Makes about 1 litre (4 cups) jam)

APRICOT CHUTNEY

                                      

 One 850g ( 1lb 11 2/3 oz) tin apricots in their juice

2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped

40 g fresh ginger, roughly chopped

1/8 tbsp Cayenne pepper

180 ml vinegar

 ½ kg (1 lb) sugar

¼ - ½ tbsp salt

           Boil the apricots with their juice and the sugar, stirring until the sugar melts.

Meanwhile process the garlic, ginger, Cayenne pepper and a little vinegar until smooth.

         When the apricot mixture thickens, add the processed ingredients, ( garlic-ginger-Cayenne-vinegar) and boil another 10 minutes and then add the rest of the vinegar and the salt.   Simmer until it reaches the consistency of jam ( 1-1,5 hours)

   

          Pour the hot chutney into sterilized jars and cover with rounds of greaseproof paper.   This chutney keeps very well.

CARAMEL ALMOND SQUARES FROM CEPHALONIA

              These almond squares are called “barboule” and they keep fresh for about a month, layered in biscuit tins, with greaseproof paper in between.

1 kg (2 lb) sugar

½ -1 tsp lemon juice

½ kg (1 lb) almonds, peeled and dried in a hot oven for 5-7 minutes

Corn oil for the dish

          Melt the sugar with the lemon juice, over very low heat until the syrup turns light golden in colour.

  

       Add the almonds and mix thoroughly.  When the mixture starts simmering again, transfer to an oiled baking sheet and spread evenly.  It should not be over 1cm (about 1/3 in) thick.   Let the caramel cool slightly and cut evenly, in bite-size squares

FIG JAM

             The common fig tree (Ficus Carica) is renowned for its luscious fruit, which also contains many nutrients and antioxidants, beneficial to the human body.  Figs can be eaten fresh, dried or cooked.   Here is a recipe for an unusual fig jam that I had promised on a previous post.

1 kg (2 lbs) figs, peeled and chopped

750 g (1 lb 5 oz) caster sugar

1 liqueur glass of brandy or rum

1 cinnamon stick

A twist of lemon rind

A pinch of salt

           Place all the ingredients in large bowl and stir well together.  Cover the bowl with cling-film and refrigerate, overnight.

          The next day, bring the fruit to a bubbling boil, in a heavy saucepan.  Then lower the heat and simmer gently for 10-15 minutes, stirring often with a spatula to avoid sticking. Discard the cinnamon stick, lemon rind, and pour the hot jam into prepared jars. When cold, cover with rounds of greaseproof paper and seal tightly

HOMEMADE CHERRY BRANDY

                                                

          This is an easy homemade liqueur.  Don’t forget to shake the bottle daily.

1 ½ litres (6 cups) good brandy

1 ½ kg (3 lb) Morello cherries, stalks removed

1 kg (5 cups) caster sugar

          Place the brandy in a large, dark bottle that will hold everything comfortably.   Add the cherries and sugar, shake thoroughly and seal.  Set aside for a fortnight, shaking the bottle once a day.

HOMEMADE  KALAMATA OLIVES

               When you make your own olives you could flavour them with lemon and orange slices, fresh rosemary and thyme sprigs, or celery cuttings.   You could even spice them with small chilli peppers, if you wish.

1 kg (2 lb) ripe, firm Kalamata olives

250 g (1/2 lb) coarse salt

Water

250 ml (1 cup) vinegar diluted in

500 ml (2 cups) water

250 ml (1 cup) or more olive oil

                Wash, dry and slit the olives, lengthwise, being careful not to reach the kernel.    Place them in a large container and cover with water, changing the water daily for a fortnight.  Taste for bitterness.

                Prepare brine with the salt and water. Test it by immersing an uncooked egg into the brine.   It should float, showing only a small part of the shell, a bit larger than the size of a 2-Euro coin.

                  Strain the olives and place them in the brine for about 2 days, stirring once or twice.   Check for taste and leave longer, if preferred.

Strain the olives.  Immerse them into the vinegar and water solution for 2 days. Check for acidity and proceed according to taste.  Then discard half (or more) of the vinegar solution and cover with olive oil.  The olives should be completely covered. Now is the time to add the herbs and fruit, if using.

HONEY AND SESAME BITES

 Παστέλι

               This tasty and healthy snack must have been invented to make life easier during the long fasting periods of the Greek Orthodox Church.

200 g (½ cup) honey

About 150 g (1 cup) sesame seeds, roasted

25 g (¼ cup) almonds, peeled, roasted and finely chopped

1 ½ tsp ground dried tangerine skin, or

½ tsp cinnamon

½ tsp nutmeg.

             Boil the honey to slightly reduce it, and skim off the foam.   Add all the other ingredients, mix well together and simmer a few minutes more. 

            Transfer the mixture to a baking dish, lined with baking parchment or marble surface, brushed with oil and spread evenly.   Cut the pasteli in squares and let cool.

PICKLED BABY ARTICHOKES IN OIL

                                         

            Serve this pickle with fish, meat or poultry or only with fresh, brown bread.  If you like artichokes, try this very easy recipe.

750 g (1.5 lb) baby artichokes (stems and hard leaves cut off, and chokes removed if

                      possible) or, use frozen baby artichokes

500 ml (2 cups) water

125 ml (1/2 cup) good wine vinegar

1 tsp salt

Olive oil         

Lemon slices

            Place the artichokes in a saucepan, pour in the water, vinegar and salt and bring to the boil.  Lower the heat and cover with baking parchment and the lid, and simmer gently until the artichokes are tender but not falling apart.  Then strain, cool and pat dry on kitchen paper.  

            Pile the artichokes in prepared jars, cover with lemon slices and olive oil, and seal.

PELION PEAR CHUTNEY

     

         This is a very old recipe of my Mother’s, called “Sweet Mango Chutney”.   I use less sugar than original recipe, and prepare it with any available fruit, even tinned fruit like apricots or peaches. Also the procedure is much easier. Cooked like a jam, in 1½ - 2 hours time, one can enjoy a very tasty chutney. 

1 kg (2 lbs) Crystallia pears (I cannot find the botanical name), cored, peeled and   

                                                                                                                    cubed

650 g (1 lb 5 oz) sugar

330 ml (1 1/3 cup) good quality vinegar

40 g (1 1/3 oz) fresh ginger, grated

4 cloves of garlic, crushed

1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper

1 tsp salt

330 g (11 oz) raisins, optional

          Bring the sugar and vinegar to the boil, over low heat in a large heavy saucepan, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves.  

          Then add all the other ingredients, except the raisins, and simmer gently, uncovered, stirring from time to time.  After about 1 hour’s patient cooking, lower the heat even more, to a bare simmer, add the raisins, if using, and stir often towards the end, as the chutney thickens to the consistency of jam.   Then remove the saucepan from the fire.  

       The next day bring the chutney to the boil once more and cook, for 5 minutes stirring all the time.   Pour the hot chutney into prepared, sterilized jars and when cold cover with greaseproof paper rounds, and seal tightly.

PRESERVED CAPERS

              Capers are the unopened flower buds of the Capparis Spinoza, preserved in salt or vinegar, or a mixture of both.

Freshly gathered capers

Water

Salt

Vinegar

Olive oil

 

         Place the capers in a bowl and pour over boiling water. Leave for about an hour and strain.  Fill  prepared  jars with the capers and then pour over a mixture of water, vinegar and salt to your taste.  Top with enough olive oil to cover the capers well.

QUINCE  JELLY

          The pectin in the fruit makes the jelly set beautifully.

1 kg (2 lb) about 4 quinces, peeled and quartered, peel and pips reserved

Sugar: 1 cup sugar to 1 cups quince juice

1 thick slice lemon, peeled

1-2 sweet geranium leaves

         Tie the quince peel and pips in a piece of cheesecloth, cover with water and simmer until soft.  Then strain the juice and measure it; set aside the quince pieces for preparing kydonopasto.

 

          Add the sugar to the quince juice, the peeled lemon slice and a sweet geranium leaves and simmer gently.  It should be ready in about 25 minutes.  Pour the jelly into suitable preserving jars, let cool and seal.

QUINCE PRESERVE

Κυδωνόπαστο

          To prepare this preserve you could use the boiled quinces left over from making quince jelly, but the result would lack the savour and character of fresh fruit.

1 kg (2 lb) quinces (about 4 pieces)

½ kg (2 ½ cups) caster sugar and

¼ kg (1/2 lb) honey, or

750 g (3 ¾ cups) caster sugar only (without the honey)

200 g (1 cup) roasted almonds

2-3 small sprigs sweet scented geranium leaves, tied in a bouquet, or

1 medium-sized cinnamon stick

1 liqueur glass brandy

1 cup granulated sugar or more for coating the preserve

Few bay leaves for storing, optional

          Wrap the quinces in foil and bake until tender, then peel, seed and puree in a blender. Reserve the seeds and tie them in a piece of muslin making a pouch.

           Place the quince puree in a saucepan, over low heat.  Gradually add the sugar and honey (or sugar only), the reserved quince seed pouch and the sweet-scented geranium bouquet and simmer gently, stirring with a wooden spoon.   When the mixture thickens and detaches itself from the sides of the saucepan, add the almonds and cook 2-3 minutes more, stirring continuously.   Remove and discard the bouquet and the seed pouch.

 

            Spread the mixture in a tin, lined with oiled baking parchment, drizzle with brandy and level the surface evenly.   It should not be over 2 cm (¾ in) in thickness.

            Place in an oven preheated to 180 C and bake for 45-50 minutes. Remove the tin from the oven and cool a little. Turn over the preserve, peel off the baking parchment and cut it into small squares or diamond shapes.   Roll in granulated sugar, if using, and store in boxes, interspersed with bay leaves or baking parchment. 

          Kydonopasto is excellent cut in slivers, accompanied with cheese.

ROSE PETAL PRESERVE

  

            The more fragrant the roses you use for this preserve, the better the result.  The whole kitchen fills with masses of roses, and when cooked, the aroma lingers round the house for at least a day!

½ kg (1 lb) rose petals, thoroughly washed, the white base removed

Water

1 kg (2 lb) sugar

1 tbsp or more, lemon juice

            Simmer the rose petals with a cup of water and a cup of sugar for half an hour, with the lid on.   Then, add ½ cup water and the remaining sugar, as well as the lemon juice.   Boil uncovered, over high heat until the syrup thickens.

  

            Pour into scalded jars and seal.   Serve with yoghurt or mastic flavoured ice-cream.

STRAWBERRY JAM

                   

 1 kg (2 lb) ripe but firm strawberries, washed and hulled

750 (1½ lb) sugar

62.5 ml (¼ cup) brandy

2 tbsp lemon juice

           Cut the strawberries in half.   Place half the strawberries in one layer in a saucepan, add half the sugar on top, arrange the remaining strawberries over and evenly cover with the rest of the sugar.  Cover the saucepan and refrigerate overnight.   

            Next day simmer the fruit for 15 minutes, then remove the saucepan from the fire and set aside for 24 hours. Then add the brandy and simmer for about ½ hour or, until the jam thickens.  Then add the lemon juice and cook for 2-5 minutes more.

           Fill prepared jars with the scalding jam, seal them and turn them upside down.   Leave them undisturbed until the next day or until they are completely cold. Then turn the jars over and store them in a cupboard.   When you open a jar, be sure to refrigerate it.

ZENA’S TOMATO PRESERVE

               This is an excellent way of preserving tomatoes, in summer, when they are at their best and cheap.  Use the best quality tomatoes.

3 kg (6 lb) tomatoes, seeded and pureed in a blender

1 tbsp or less salt

   

                Simmer the tomato puree with the salt until reduced by one third.  Turn off the heat, and while the mixture is still boiling, fill prepared jars, seal them and turn them upside down.  Leave them undisturbed until the next day, or until completely cold.  Then turn them over and store in a cupboard.    Opened jars should be refrigerated.

SWEET MANGO CHUTNEY

             You can make this chutney with almost any fruit, but for me, mangoes are the best choice.  

500 g (1 lb) green mangoes, sliced

1 heaped tbsp ginger, grated, mixed with

1 large clove garlic, finely chopped

125 ml (1/2 cup) vinegar

500 g (1 lb) sugar

Salt to taste

1/8 - ¼ tsp chilli powder or Cayenne pepper

1 cup sultanas

             Mix the ginger and garlic with 1 tbsp of the vinegar.    Then make syrup with half the sugar and the remaining vinegar and set aside.

             Simmer the fruit and the remaining sugar to the consistency of jam.   Add the garlic and ginger mixture, salt, chilly powder and cook 5 minutes more.  Finally add the syrup and the raisins to the fruit and simmer 10 minutes longer.  Fill scalded jars up to the brim, cover with baking parchment rounds, and seal. 

CRYSTALLIZED CHESTNUS

 Marrons Glaces

          Almost everybody’s favourite.    It might be smarter to double the recipe.

30 large chestnuts

562,5 g (2¼ cups) sugar

500 ml (2 cups ) water

½ tbsp lemon juice

          Wash and parboil the chestnuts in slightly salted water with a piece of lemon rind, then peel and set aside.

   

          Place the sugar and water in a large saucepan, bring to the boil add the chestnuts and simmer for 5-7 minutes.   Remove the pan from the fire and set aside to cool.  

          On the second day, remove the chestnuts with a slotted spoon and reduce the syrup, boiling briskly for about 10 minutes. Then re-place the chestnuts and simmer gently until the chestnuts are almost done.  Remove the saucepan from the heat and set aside.

  

        Finally, on the third day, remove the chestnuts once more, and boil the syrup with the lemon juice until thickened.  Then add the chestnuts to the syrup, but do not boil.  Remove the saucepan from the fire, and, when almost cold, lift the chestnuts from the syrup with a slotted spoon and let them strain on a rack.  

When completely cold wrap them in special foil, lined with paper.

PICKLED BEETROOT

        This pickle can last for a month or more in the fridge.

1 kg (2 lb) firm beetroots, boiled or roasted, peeled and sliced

Vinegar brine

500ml (2 cups) water

125 ml (½ cup) good wine vinegar

2 tbsp sugar, or according to taste

2 ½ tsp salt, or according to taste

6-10 pepper corns

1 garlic clove, unpeeled (optional)

Olive oil to cover the jar

Some red wine, if necessary

           Place the sliced beetroots in a prepared pickle jar. 

Bring the vinegar brine ingredients to the boil, remove the garlic, and pour immediately over the beetroots.  If they are not completely covered with brine add a little red wine, and set aside to cool. Pour olive oil up to the brim, seal and refrigerate.

After 2 days the pickle is ready. 

           Serve sprinkled with extra virgin olive oil, and a few capers.

PICKLED FIGS

          This pickle is excellent with  meat and poultry.

½ kg (1 lb) ripe, firm figs, stemmed, peeled and thickly sliced

250 ml (1 cup) good quality wine vinegar

250 g (1 cup + 2 tbsp) caster sugar

2-3 tbsp honey

2 cloves

1 small cinnamon stick

1 small chilli pepper

Salt to taste

          Place sugar, honey, vinegar and spices in a saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring until the sugar melts, and simmer for 1-2 minutes more.    

          Add the figs to the honey and vinegar mixture and simmer gently for 2 minutes or so.   Carefully pour everything into a glass bowl, cover with cling film and set aside for at least 8 hours.

          The next day transfer the figs carefully to prepared jars, with a slotted spoon.     Remove the chilli, and reduce the sugar and vinegar solution by a third.  Strain the hot vinegar syrup over the figs and seal the jars immediately.   Be patient for a week to ten days before tasting.

EASY ORANGE MARMALADE

           This is really a very easy way of making marmalade, with excellent results.

1 kg (2 lbs) non-treated, un-waxed oranges

 Sugar (see instructions below)

          Wash the oranges, place them in a saucepan, cover with hot water, and simmer until soft.  Strain and reserve the cooking water.    When cool enough to handle, slice the oranges as thinly as possible, discarding any pips and hard parts.

           Mix the sliced oranges with the reserved liquid and measure the mixture in cups (volume).   Stir in the same amount of sugar and simmer gently, skimming if necessary, until the marmalade sets, about 30-40 minutes.   Allow the marmalade to cool a little, pour into prepared jars and seal.

PICKLED MUSHROOMS

               This is a popular hors-d’oeuvres and very easy to prepare.

1 kg (2 lbs) fresh button mushrooms in

Water and vinegar (see instructions below)

½ tsp salt

2 cloves garlic

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

2 sprigs fresh thyme

2 bay leaves

1 tsp cracked black pepper

Olive oil to cover

           Wipe the mushrooms with a damp cloth and simmer in a mixture of 2/3 water and 1/3 vinegar and salt, until tender.

           Dry the mushrooms very well and pack them in jar/jars interspersed with the garlic, herbs and cracked black pepper.  Cover with olive oil and seal.   After 4 days they are ready to eat. They last about a month in the fridge.

CONCENTRATED TOMATO PASTE

                                                    

                    Years ago, tomato paste was widely used in Greece during winter, when fresh tomatoes were not available.  Today, it is mainly used to accentuate the colour and flavour of tomato sauces.

3 kg (6 lb) ripe tomatoes cut in half

1 tbsp or more, coarse salt

                 Sprinkle the tomatoes with the salt and place them in a colander to drain, overnight.   Next day sieve the tomatoes into a flat dish and cover with double muslin. 

Place the dish in the sun for 20-25 days, not forgetting to bring it indoors, during the night.

   

                Then transfer to prepared jars, cover with olive oil, and seal.  When you open a jar, store it in the refrigerator.    

CHERRY TOMATOES PRESERVED IN SYRUP

                                                 

                 Tomatoes aren’t only used to make tasty sauces and interesting salads.    Try this unusual preserve served with a glass of iced water and/or a cup of good coffee.

1 kg (2 lbs) cherry tomatoes, blanched and skinned

1 kg (2 lbs) sugar

A 2½ cm (1 inch) piece of cinnamon stick

1 tbsp lemon juice or

2 -3 tbsp glucose syrup

                Make a small incision at the stem end of each tomato, and press lightly so that the seeds drop out.   

               In a large saucepan, lay the tomatoes in layers with the sugar in between. Place the cinnamon stick on top.  Turn on the heat and simmer for 5 minutes then remove the pan from the fire. 

               After 24 hours remove the tomatoes with a slotted spoon, add the lemon juice or the glucose, if using, and boil the syrup briskly for 15 minutes. 

Return the tomatoes to the saucepan and simmer until the syrup has thickened.   Pour into sterilized jars and seal.    

SUN-DRIED TOMATOES WITH BASIL AND OLIVE OIL

                                 

          You can use sun-dried tomatoes in salads and in fish or meat dishes.

Medium-sized ripe red tomatoes

Basil leaves

Garlic cloves, roughly chopped (optional)

Fine salt

Olive oil

          Cut the tomatoes in half and de-seed them.   Place them on large baking sheets, lined with baking parchment and sprinkle with salt.  The traditional method is to cover the tomatoes with fine muslin, and leave them in the sun for about 10 days, or until they are dried but still slightly soft.  They should be taken indoors every evening.

           It is much easier to dry them in a very low oven for about 24 hours. When ready, remove the skin.

           Place the tomatoes in jars interspersed with basil leaves and garlic, if used, and cover with olive oil.   In about a week they will be ready to eat.   Always keep them well covered with olive oil.   They will keep for several months.