Patmos

                                                 

 My daughter-in-law Elpida and my son Yiannis invited me to their beautiful home on the island of Patmos.

The main communities in Patmos are the capital Chora, the main port Skala, Grikos and Campos.  In 1999 the historic centre Chora, the Monastery of St. John the Theologian and the Cave of the Apocalypse were declared by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites.

Driving up the Scala road one suddenly comes across the fortified Castle and Chora.  

 Crowned by the castle the houses seem unreal, as if ingeniously placed there, by a master stage-designer.  The Monastery is imposing and peaceful. A monk told us that it has ten chapels. The main chapel has a beautifully carved wooden iconostasis, a real masterpiece, that leaves one speachless.   I was particularly impressed and moved by the Treasury (the museum) the largest in the Aegean, we were told.   It has an amazing collection of beautiful manuscripts, icons, vestments, Abbots’ thrones, silver and gold ecclesiastical objects, the finest examples of Byzantine and post-Byzantine Art. But one can also see classical and early-Christian antiquities and Ottoman and Slavic collections of documents and works of art.

In Chora we visited Freddy Constandinides  house, which is a real jewel, and her five-year-old son Nicolas proudly showed us around.

Halfway down the road to Skala we went to the Cave of the Apocalypse, where St John the Theologian received his visions.   We were very lucky because a service, Orthros (Matins) was taking place. It was incredible, as the biblical appearance of the priests and the soft, mellow chanting, brought us right back to 95 A.D., the year that the Book of the Revelation was written.

Yiannis insisted that we eat out every evening.  I must mention “Loza” in Chora, where Sophia invents and cooks the most fabulous gourmet dishes.   My grandchildren's favourite is Fillet with Coumandaria.  Also “Veggera”, where the "gold toque" chef prepares his excellent creations.  “Benetos” offers the tastiest of fish and meat dishes with vegetables and herbs freshly picked from his garden.  We also enjoyed “Pappou’s Souvlakia” run by Maria Canario and the hors-d’oeuvres at “Pleusis” attached to the Aktis Hotel. We really loved feeding the melanouria at “Kyma”, a restaurant which specializes in delectable seafood dishes.  And last but not least is “Gelato De Santis” which prepares real Italian ice cream.

 I loved the island. The sea is clear and greenish blue and the arid fiords create a fascinating antithesis. The towns are full of interesting boutiques, cafés, bars and art galleries.   The people are friendly and generous.   On the whole, Patmos was literally a revelation to me.

 ICED WATERMELON SOUP

           “Veggera” was the first to prepare iced watermelon soup, this is Elpida’s  version.

One 390 g (13 oz) tin tomato juice

1 medium-sized onion, chopped

1 garlic clove

1 bouquet garni (1 bay leaf + a sprig of thyme + a sprig of parsley)

Salt and freshly ground white pepper

¼ tsp or less Cayenne pepper

1 tsp honey or sugar

1 kg (2 lbs) watermelon, peeled, de-seeded and cubed

1 shot vodka or brandy, optional

Mint leaves or sprigs for garnish  

       Simmer the first six ingredients for 20 minutes, discard the bouquet garni, cool and sieve.   Meanwhile blend the watermelon and combine it with the tomato juice mixture. Sieve once more and add the honey or sugar and stir well together.  Taste for seasoning and add more salt, pepper or honey, if necessary, and place in the refrigerator.   Add the liquor, if using and serve iced, in tall glasses, garnished with mint.

 

  

FILLET COOKED WITH MUSHROOMS, HERBS AND WINE

                                       

You could also cook this dish successfully, using chicken or veal cutlets

1 ¼ kg (2.5 lb) fillet, trimmed, cut into slices and flattened

Salt and pepper or mustard powder if preferred

3 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp butter

1 large onion, finely chopped

1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

500 g (1 lb) fresh white mushrooms, stalks removed, chopped and reserved, caps cut into chunks

1½ tbsp flour

4 tbsp brandy

125 ml (1/2 cup) good quality sweet wine (Coumandaria for my grandsons!)

250 ml (1 cup) or more, chicken stock or more

4-5 sage leaves, or a small rosemary sprig

125 ml (½ cup) cream

2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped

           Season the meat with pepper (or mustard powder).   Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a heavy frying pan and cook the steaks in batches, for 2 minutes on each side, over very high heat. Sprinkle with salt   Then lower the heat and cook for 2 minutes more on each side.   Arrange them on a dish, and keep hot.

 

          Pour off any oil left in the frying pan.   Add the remaining olive oil and butter, then the onion and garlic and simmer, stirring, until soft but not brown.   Then stir in the mushroom stalks, chopped, and simmer for a minute or two.  Add the mushroom caps and cook briskly until almost dry.  Sprinkle the flour over and stir.  Pour in the brandy and ignite. When the flame dies out, douse with the wine and cook for 2-3 minutes more.   Then add the chicken stock and sage, or rosemary, and simmer gently, until the sauce thickens.   It might need some extra liquid (stock or water).   Return the meat to the pan and cook for 3 minutes more. Remove the rosemary sprig and stir in the cream and simmer for a minute or two. Taste the sauce and adjust accordingly.  Sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper and parsley and serve with smashed potatoes or chips.

(Serves 6-8)

SATCHELS FROM PATMOS

 Πουγγιά από την Πάτμο

 Τhe following recipe from Patmos is very old.  "Pounghia’ are offered at weddings up to this day, together with the traditional sugar almonds.

Pastry:

250 g (½ lb) butter

110 (1/2 cup + 1 tbsp) sugar

The yolk of 1 egg

Vanilla

1 ½ tsp baking powder

500 g (1 lb) about 3 1/3 cups flour

A pinch of salt

120ml (½ cup) water

Filling:

250 g (2 ½ cups) almonds, blanched and ground

125 g (about 1 cup) walnuts, coarsely chopped

75 g (3/4 cup) dry breadcrumbs

1 tsp grated nutmeg

Syrup:

1 cup water

250 g (1 ¼ cup) sugar

125 g (1/3 cup) honey

About ½ kg (1 lb) icing sugar, for coating the pounghia

     First make the syrup.  Boil the water and sugar for 5 minutes, then add the honey and simmer 2 minutes more.   Set aside to cool

     To make the pastry:  Sieve the flour, baking powder and salt together. Cream the butter and sugar, then stir in the egg yolk, vanilla, the flour mixture, and finally add the water and knead (adding more water if necessary) to form a pliable dough.   Wrap it in cling film and refrigerate for about an hour. 

     In the meantime prepare the filling:  In a bowl, combine the nuts with the breadcrumbs and the nutmeg and mix well together.   Then add the syrup and stir thoroughly.

      Take a piece of dough, the size of a small walnut, roll it out thinly and shape it  into a small circle.  Spoon a teaspoon of the filling in the centre.   Press the opposite sides of the dough together to seal in the filling.   Repeat, until all the dough is used. 

     Arrange the satchels on a tin, lined with baking parchment, and bake in a moderately hot oven, preheated to 190 C (375 F) for about 15-20 minutes, until just lightly browned.    Let the satchels cool, brush them lightly with water and sprinkle lavishly with icing sugar. (Makes about 50 pieces)

  

VANILLA ICE CREAM WITH CHOCOLATE SAUCE

This is a very easy ice cream, very popular with both children and grownups.

A vanilla pod

500 g (2 cups) full milk

200 g (1 cup) sugar

A good pinch of salt

500 g (2 cups) thick cream

Chocolate Sauce

120 g (4 oz) dark chocolate, melted mixed with

4-5 tbsp sweet condensed milk

Split the vanilla pod and scrape the seeds into the milk.  Heat the milk, sugar and salt, stirring until the sugar melts, and cool.   Stir in the cream, pour into a covered container and place in the freezer.   After 1½ hours beat the cream, cover and return it quickly to the freezer.  Repeat the procedure twice more.

 Serve the ice cream in bowls and pour 1-2 tbsp chocolate sauce on top.