Sunday 29 April 2018

MOMBASA, KENYA, EAST AFRICA





Mombasa, Kenya

Mombasa 1572 by Georg Braun and Franz Hogenberg


In my post "Home Leave 1956" of the 5th April 1956, I had mentioned that our leave was coming to an end and that we should not be returning to Karachi, Pakistan that we loved, but to Mombasa, Kenya to where we had been transferred by Ralli Bros.






Here is a short account of Kenyan history.   The territory that is now known as Kenya was inhabited since the beginning of the Early Paleolithic Age.

The Portuguese and Arab presence in Mombasa dates from the Middles Ages to the Early Modern Period, but European exploration of the interior of the country began, only, during the 19th century.

The British established the East African Protectorate in 1895 and from 1920 it was known as the British Colony of Kenya.

The independent Republic of Kenya was formed in 1964. 







In early  September 1956, we bid tearful (on my part) farewells to our family and friends, in Athens, and boarded a BOAC aircraft for Kenya.  The 1950s and 1960s were, later, known as the “golden age” of flying, so we enjoyed large, comfortable seats with ample leg space and wonderful gourmet meals.

After 10-12 hours, we arrived at Eastleigh Airport, near Nairobi.   My first impression was the colour of the runway, which consisted of compact marram, the red East African soil.

We were warmly welcomed by old friends, an English couple we had known from Pakistan, who were now with Ralli Bros, in East Africa.   We had a wonderful day with them, fondly reminiscing events and situations that we had shared, in the not so distant past. 







The next day, we boarded a British East Africa plane that took us to our destination.   Mombasa is actually built on a coral island, enclosed in a gulf, on the Indian Ocean and is, therefore, a very important port.

Mr D. G. Sevastopulo and his charming wife, Betty were there to meet us and took us over to their house for a large breakfast and then to a lovely small bungalow on Mbuyuni Road, which the company provided for us, fully furnished, with a cook and bearer. 

Our little Fiat 500, that we had bought the previous summer from Turin, was shipped over and we were delighted to have it with us, as we considered it as a member of the family!

The garden was quite large with beautiful tropical trees and shrubs, but the earth was just a thin layer of red soil covering a coral substructure.  This was a great challenge for my husband Aleco, who had all the prospects of a keen gardener.   

He first cleared the area with a shovel, getting rid of all weeds, loose rocks and roots.  He bought dark soil enriched with fertiliser, a thick layer of which was spread all over the marram.   He raked the soil and levelled it, making a slope away from the house.   He, then, sowed "Kikuyu warm season grass seeds", in a crisscross pattern, all over and covered them with extra soil to protect them from the birds.   Aleco sprinkled the seeds with water, 2-3 times a day for the first 10 days.  So, very soon we had a lush, green lawn which became our pride and joy.   It was an enormous, difficult but gratifying task.





After the first day in our new home,  I woke up to the sounds of strange birds, which I had never heard before in Europe or Asia.   They were melodic whistles, rather than twitters and others were like continuous, staccato, metallic coughs




Arab Town in Mombasa


The Silver White Sands of Malindi Beach

We loved Mombasa, a beautiful city, with a medieval Arab town and lovely, white sandy beaches, like Malindi, which we visited every Sunday.   As a coral reef protects the shores from sharks, we went underwater fishing and caught white snapper, kingfish and sting-rays which are very tasty, either poached or grilled.



Glass Bottomed Boat

Once, we went in a glass-bottomed boat to catch a glimpse of the marine life, such as various kinds of multicoloured tropical fish, coral, sea urchins and starfish.





We made life-long friends with people of various nationalities.  We had friends over for lunch or dinner, went to tremendous parties, and as Mombasa was a busy port, we were, often, invited aboard luxurious ships for cocktails and excellent food.

The Sevastopoulos had two older sons, who were at school in England and a seven-year-old daughter called Marigo, a clever child with a terrific sense of humour,   I wish to thank them for their support, especially Betty who helped me settling down.  We went shopping together, she introduced me to many interesting women and gave me subtle advice with the house.   







Libro d'Oro de la Noblesse de Chios  

As Aleco and Mr Sevastopulo were both from the island of Chios, he showed us a book by Philip P. Argenti who had written about the history and displayed the family trees of twelve families from Chios.

D.G. Sevastopulo, besides being the manager of Ralli Bros in Mombasa, was a famous entomologist, specialising in moths and butterflies.  He was the author of many books on this subject like “Interspecific Competition in Butterflies” and "The Genetics of East African Lepidoptera"

I'm embarrassed with my fading memory, trying to remember the name of a Greek couple who had a chic boutique in Mombasa.  We were very friendly with them and they had made a few very elegant dresses for me.   







To our great joy, I was pregnant very soon after our arrival in Mombasa.   I had an easy and very happy pregnancy and I had learned Dr Benjamin Spock's "Baby and Child Care" book by heart.







Our son, Spiros Steven was born in the Mombasa European Hospital on the 17th July.   He was a beautiful baby and he certainly changed our lives.   I had a feeling of deep satisfaction and utter bliss, and we both simply adored this tiny creature of ours.  

My Mother had come over for the great occasion, from Karachi, where my father still worked.  She stayed a month with us, and her help and advice were invaluable.  

I had never thought about this before, but after my son was born I realized how much my parents loved me.   My Father was a very amiable person, just, fair and popular.     I know, now, that I must have been the apple of his eye.

When I was a teenager, I considered my Mother very strict.  But she was, actually, loving and supporting and was, always, by me when I needed help.  Moreover, she was beautiful, a wonderful hostess, a fabulous cook and she loved entertaining our family and friends.   My own friends were very fond of her.

Our baby was growing up by leaps and bounds, all smiles and dimples.   He, soon, started crawling and climbing on sofas and armchairs all day long, so we had to run after him to prevent accidents.  By the end of each day, I was so exhausted that I would suddenly collapse and fall fast asleep, right next to him.  

We were blissfully happy and we could not imagine life without Spyros Steven.  He was all smiles and gurgles, splashed in his bath, enjoyed his meals but, for the first three months, he cried painfully in the evenings.   Sometimes, we put him in his carry-cot and went for a ride in the Cinquecento, which calmed him down and lulled him happily to sleep.   

I met many women with small babies and we were amazed by the delight they felt in each other’s company, these tiny social entities!

At  Christmas, Spyro was five-month-old so, we bought a Christmas tree and decorated it with baubles and garlands and, especially for him, flashing lights.   Our cook, Odhiambo, and I prepared a  traditional lunch with pumpkin soup, turkey with stuffing and all the trimmings, glazed ham, Christmas pudding etc.






After we had settled down beautifully in Mombasa, started a family and made many new friends, we were, suddenly, informed that we were going to be transferred to Kampala, Uganda....






Here are a few dishes that I used to prepare when we lived in Mombasa.





                             EAST AFRICAN PEANUT BUTTER SOUP



 A Peanut Butter Soup with Chicken

Here is a tasty East African soup that is a meal in its self.  You can also add boiled chicken breast to the soup if you wish.


2 large onions, peeled and chopped
1 tsp minced garlic
1 tbsp olive oil
Salt and
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
¼ tsp Cayenne pepper
1 tsp ground coriander seeds
1 tsp ground cumin seeds
¼ tsp cardamom seeds
¼ tsp turmeric

2 celery stalks, trimmed, threaded and diced
2 bell peppers seeded and diced
2 cups brown rice
2 tomatoes, cut in half, seeded, grated, skins discarded
1500 ml (6 cups) hot water

2 chicken breasts, boiled and chopped, optional
½ cup natural peanut butter
1 tbsp sugar
The juice of 1 lime or more
Chopped parsley, finely sliced spring onions and ground peanuts for garnish



Sauté the onions in olive oil, stirring frequently for about 5-7 minutes, until the onions are just translucent.

Add the garlic and ginger and cook for 1 minute, then add the salt and spices and sauté for 5 minutes until their aroma fills the kitchen, stirring often.

Stir in the rice and cook, then add the vegetables, tomato pulp and hot water, bring to the boil, lower the heat to a simmer, and cook gently, covered for about 40 minutes until the rice is tender.

Whisk in the peanut butter, lime juice and sugar.  This is the time to add the boiled chicken breasts if using.  Add some water if the soup seems too thick. Taste and add more salt or sugar, if necessary.

Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley, finely sliced spring onions, and ground peanuts.


  
       RAY WINGS BAKED WITH CHERRY TOMATOES AND RED CHILLI FLAKES






We used to fish stingrays when we lived in Mombasa.


About 1 kg (2 lb) ray wings, each cut into two pieces and seasoned with
Salt and
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

500 g (1 lb) cherry tomatoes
1½ tsp dried, red chilli flakes
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
A little salt and
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1½ tbsp lemon juice
1½ tsp Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper to taste

1 heaped tbsp. chopped parsley and
Lemon wedges for serving


Heat the oven to 200 C (400 F).   Toss the cherry tomatoes in olive oil, sprinkle evenly with red chilli flakes, salt and pepper, and bake for 10 minutes. 

Move the tomatoes to one side of the tin and arrange the seasoned ray wings next to them and roast for 15 minutes more or until the fish can be lifted away from the cartilage.

Whip the olive oil with the lemon juice, mustard, a little salt and pepper together until thick and pour it over the fish.

Serve the fish with the roasted cherry tomatoes, garnished with lemon wedges and sprinkled lavishly with parsley.



                                                    COQ AU VIN






This is a lovely dish of Provincial France.  Start cooking a day before you need it.


2 tbsp olive oil
12 rashers lean bacon, fat removed and cut in half +
2 extra rashers lean bacon
20 or more shallots, peeled

2 chickens 2 ½ -3kg (5-6 lb) drumsticks and thighs skinned, breasts skinned and boned, cartilage removed, cut into serving pieces and sprinkled with
Salt and
Freshly ground black pepper

2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
62.5 ml (¼ cup) Cognac or Metaxa brandy
750 ml (1 bottle) Agiorgitiko red wine or Pinot Noir
250 ml (1 cup) tasty hot chicken stock
2 tbsp tomato paste diluted in ¼ cup chicken stock
1 bouquet garni (2 sprigs thyme + 2 small sprigs rosemary + 1 bay leaf)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

500 g (1 lb) champignons de Paris
½ tsp olive oil
Little salt

Beurre manié:
1 tbsp flour
1 tbsp butter at room temperature
(mix together until smooth, cover with cling film and refrigerate)



In a large saucepan, sauté the bacon in 1 tbsp olive oil until crisp and place on kitchen paper to drain.  Then, sauté the shallots until golden and reserve.

Sauté the chicken in batches, with the remaining olive oil for 4-5 minutes on each side.  Remove most of the fat from the saucepan, add the garlic and simmer for 2 minutes.  Add the brandy and cook briskly, stirring to deglaze the saucepan and remove from the fire.  

Arrange the drumsticks and thighs in the saucepan and return to the stove.   Pour in the wine and cook for 5-6 minutes.  Add the stock, tomato paste, bouquet garni, a little salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Cover the saucepan and simmer for 20 minutes.   Then, place the chicken breasts, shallots and the 2 extra rashers of bacon on top, making sure that they are all submerged under the sauce, adding a little more stock, if necessary.  Cover and simmer very gently for 20-25 minutes more, until the chicken and shallots are tender.  Discard the bouquet garni, taste for seasoning and adjust accordingly.   Cool and refrigerate.

The next day, heat a frying pan and cook the mushrooms in olive oil, over high heat, until cooked and dry.   Sprinkle with a little salt and tip them into the saucepan.   Bring the coq au vin to the boil, taste and season if necessary.  Arrange the chicken, shallots, the 12 heated bacon rashers and the mushrooms, attractively, on a hot serving dish and keep hot.   

Thicken the sauce with a tiny piece of beurre manié, whisk, and simmer the sauce, adding more thickening agent and whisking, until the desired thickness is achieved.   Pour the sauce over the chicken, shallots, mushrooms and bacon, and serve immediately with creamy mashed potatoes and garnish with twigs of the herbs used in the bouquet garni.  



         

                                                 CHOCOLATE ROLL

            

Decadent Chocolate Roll with Chocolate Filling

                         
 Dolly Cocali, my sister-in-law and very dear friend, gave me this recipe for this lovely chocolate dessert, about 60 years ago.


7 medium-sized eggs separated, whites whipped into stiff peaks with a pinch of salt
400 g (2 cups) sugar
100 g (1 cup) cocoa

Fillings:
500 g (2 cups) slightly sweetened whipped cream or

Ganache:
200 g (almost 7 oz) bittersweet chocolate melted with
200 ml (4/5 cup) single cream and mixed with
2 tbsp honey until smooth and glossy

Garnish:
Icing sugar or
Strawberries or crystallized chestnuts
Mint leaves


Beat egg yolks with sugar until light and creamy.   Sift in the cocoa and mix thoroughly.   Gently fold in the whipped egg-whites until no traces of white are visible.

Spoon the mixture into a Swiss-roll tin, lined with baking parchment, and level the surface with a wet spatula.  Bake in an oven preheated to 190 C (375 F), for about 20 minutes until well risen, but do not overcook.  Remove from the oven and cool slightly.
     
Turn out the cake on baking parchment sprinkled with icing sugar, detach the baking parchment from the top and trim the edges. Then roll the warm cake and the parchment together, and set aside to cool. 

Unroll the cake carefully and remove the parchment.   Spread with whipped cream or with the ganache filling fold it up like a Swiss roll and place it on a serving dish.  Dust the top of the roll with icing sugar or garnish with whipped cream and fresh strawberries, partly dipped in melted chocolate and a few mint leaves, for freshness.




                                                   
East African Orange and Yellow Gloriosa Superba



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