Monday 23 May 2016

HOME LEAVE 1956 - PART II (continued)



The French Riviera

Antique Poster



 When we arrived at Cannes in April 1956, we both fell in love with this amazingly beautiful city.
Cannes Painted with the Vibrant Colours of  Leonid Afremov

We were told that in the 1930s, many ambitious efforts were made by the film industry and the local authorities to establish a Film Festival in Cannes, but they were stopped abruptly by World War II.   The Cannes Film Festival was finally inaugurated in 1946.   A glamourous international event, that takes place each May, to judge and award prizes to the best films, film directors, screenplays, actors and actresses, music etc of the year.


Poster for the First Film Festival Which was Annulled
The Poster for the First International Film Festival After World War II

During the festival, Cannes is flooded with significant filmmaking personas, famous actors and actresses, beautiful starlets, politicians, international celebrities, the press and last but not least the jury and critics.  This is the most important event of the year for the city of  Cannes and for the creative industry of the 7th art.

Incidentally, the 2016 award winners are:

The Palme d’Or: Ken Loach for “I, Daniel Blake”
The Grand Prix: Xavier Dolan for “It’s Only the End of the World”
Best Director: Christian Mungiu for “Baccalaureat”
Best Director ex Aequo: Olivier Assayas for “The Personal Shopper”
Best Screenplay:  Asgar Farahdi for “The Salesman”
Jury Prix: Andrea Arnold for “American Honey”.


        
  A few paragraphs about the history of Cannes that I found interesting when I was researching for this post.

Initially, the small settlement was known as Aegitna, probably during the Greek period.   Later it was called Canna, a name originating from the reeds (canna) that grew so profusely around the area.  In 1035 there is written evidence that the village was already called Cannes.

According to archaeological excavations, evidence of human life in the area of Cannes goes way back to the Neolithic and Iron Ages.   Also, a dig revealed a settlement, dating back to the 6th century B.C., that included houses, an acropolis and other public buildings.   The first inhabitants were Celts, then the Greeks arrived.   Later came the Romans who occupied Cannes and the neighbouring Lerins Islands for almost 5 centuries, when the islands of St. Honorat and St. Marguerite became parts of an important naval base.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, the country dropped into a period of misery and desolation, the Dark Era, as it was called.  Barbarians, Visigoths and Lombards, often attacked and ravished the land.   But, the most devastating of all was the invasion by the Saracen pirates, who plundered and flattened the area to smithereens and slaughtered most of the population.

During the Middle Ages, Cannes and the Lerins Islands were reconstructed and strong fortifications were built to protect the citizens from the threat of pirates.    The Church and powerful, local families helped to accumulate sufficient funds for the erection of these massive, time-consuming works.


A Fortified Monastery Built on St Honorat Island for Protection Against the Pirates

And something that we were told, during our 1956 visit, that I must mention, was the ingenious method of warning that they used, when unfamiliar ships approached.    They built towers on the highest hills and knolls of the islands and the mainland, and whenever a suspicious boat was detected, they lit fires on the towers to warn the population and the authorities.   The name of the highest hill in Cannes, “La Croix de Garde”, was derived from this old defensive method. 



The Fort Royal Cannes

In 1520, Cannes had the worst plague epidemic that, unfortunately, killed half the population.  Fortunately, the residents being resilient but also frugal and industrious managed to recover rapidly, from this terrible tribulation and their profound grief.

Over the years, Cannes belonged to the Catalan Counts, the Angevins and the King of Naples.  In 1635, the Spanish occupied the islands for a short period.  Finally, Cannes became part of France in 1860.

Twenty-six years earlier, in 1834, the Lord Chancellor of England, Lord Brougham, visited Cannes.   Being delighted by the mild climate and, as he wrote, by “the deep blue of the Mediterranean, the perfume of the orange groves in the air, and the forest behind ending in the snowcapped Alps" he decided to build a beautiful winter residence there, for his family, the Villa Eleonore Luise.   Following his example and in order to avoid the harsh British winters, many British aristocrats and members of the Royal Family built residences in Cannes. This area was later named le Quartier Anglais.   During this period, Cannes became connected by rail with Paris and the Boulevard Carnot, and the Rue d'Antibes were constructed.   Apparently, the Casino des Fleurs was also built then, for the entertainment of the rich newcomers, and slowly, from a poor fishing village, Cannes started turning into a prosperous city. 



Villa Eleonore Louise

Boulevard Carnot Circa End 19th Century



Rue d'Antibes Cannes, today

One of the Contemporary Casinos


After the British came the Russians and other wealthy Europeans and Americans who built palatial  villas in Cannes.    During the Belle Epoque, the well-known writer, Guy de Maupassant, and the poet Stephen Liegeard, who first named the French Riviera “Cote d’Azur”, were frequent residents of Cannes.   This was the period that the Promenade de la Croisette was constructed and the Villa Domergue was built.  Luxurious hotels, the Carlton, the Martinez and the Majestic were erected on the Croisette to accommodate the wealthy, aristocratic clientele.  Later the Great War (World War I) came, and during the carnage,  these hotels were converted into hospitals for the wounded and the sick.


Boulevard de la Croisette


Boulevard de la Croisette



Hotel Carlton

Hotel Majestic

Hotel Martinez


La Croisette by H.C.Pizaro


The war finally ended and in the 1920s tourism began to grow.   Sunbathing became very fashionable and Cannes from a winter haven turned into a very popular summer resort, as middle-class families, also, started travelling abroad for their holidays.


But another  devastating war broke out in 1939.   During World War II, Cannes was occupied first by the Italians and then by the Germans.   Finally in 1944, the city was liberated by the Allies.

Peace brought prosperity and economic growth to the region.


Apart from the International Film Festival, mentioned above, various other festivals and events take place in Cannes, each year, bringing many visitors and a very profitable income for the city and for France.  Such are:

The Cannes’ Lions International Festival of Creativity, a global event for Advertizing etc.

Midem Trade Show, for the Music Industry

The Pan-African Film Festival

M.I.P.I.M. the world’s largest property related show

The International Festival of Games is a festival of bridge, backgammon, chess and more

The International Luxury Travel Market

MIPCOM and the MIPTV are the world’s most important trade markets for the Television Industry.

Le Festival de Art Pyrotechnique, a magnificent annual fireworks competition in the ports of Cannes 

The Festival de la Plaisance, a boat event that takes part each September, at the Vieux Port

The Carnival on the Riviera is an annual parade that takes place on the large boulevards and the roads of the city on the last Sunday before Lent.

Also, in  May 2011, Cannes hosted the G20 Summit, in the Palais de Festivals et de Congres, when 10000 delegates arrived in Cannes.

   
During the Fireworks Competition at the Bay of Cannes

The Carnival on the Riviera


Tourism is the main source of income for Cannes.   Also, there are about 9000 companies in the city dealing in trade, services, high-tech services (Sophia-Antipolis is very near) and aviation.  The Cannes Mandelieu Space Center, headquarters of Thales Alenia Space, the first European satellite manufacturer, is based in Cannes.


THALES ALENIA SPACE


There is the annual International Flower Market of Cannes  that deals primarily with mimosas.


This Year's Poster

To conclude, the festivals of Cannes, the growing aerospace industry and the expanding influx of tourists increase each year the wealth of the city and the country.



The only inhabitants of St. Honorat Island are the Cistercian monks.  Medieval vestiges are kept in the church, which is open to the public.   Also, the ruins of the 11th-century old monastery stand  by the sea-side.   The monks cultivate vines and, with the advice of famous oenologists, they produce limited quantities of both red and white wines.  They create, among others, a very good Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and an excellent Mourvedre Noviciat.


A Warm Welcome at the Entrance of the Monastery

On the islet of St. Marguerite, there is a fortress where the Man in the Iron Mask was imprisoned from the late 17th century until his death, in the early 18th century.  A mystery man, of doubtful identity, of  whom many books have been written.  Could he really be the twin brother of King Louis XIV? 

      

The Prison on St. Marguerite where the Man in the Iron Mask was Held


The 1998 Film with Leonardo di Caprio in the Leading Role

The main landmarks of Cannes are the Boulevard de la  Croisette, Museums, beautiful Villas, Churches, art Galleries, the old town, marinas, luxurious hotels, trendy boutiques, fashionable restaurants and cafés where one can enjoy the most delicious meals and heavenly desserts.

The Boulevarde de la Croisette is a beautiful palm-lined street that stretches for almost 2 km along the yellow beaches of the Mediterranean.   Besides the luxurious Belle Epoque hotels, mentioned at the beginning of this post, it is lined with elegant villas, fashionable boutiques and famous restaurants. The Croisette extends from the Palais de Festivals and ends at a harbour where the pirate ship Neptune is docked.  At the eastern section is the idyllic Port Pierre Canto, a marina for luxury yachts .  Very near is Pointe de Croisette, the starting point for the regattas of the Yacht Club of Cannes and also a sailing school at Port Palm Beach.  The Croisette is included in the Cultural Heritage List of France.


Strolling by the Sea on the Croisette in Cannes


Boulevard de la Croisette, by Lucien Adrion 
The Musée d’Art et d’Histoire de Provence exhibits artifacts from prehistoric to present.  Others are the Musée de la Castre that exhibits objects from the Pacific Attols and Peru and Mayan pottery, the Musée de la Marine, the Musée  de la Mer, the Musée  de la Photographie and the Musee Internationale de la Parfumerie.


Musee d'Art et d'Histoire de la Provence in Cannes

Musee de la Castre


I have already mentioned Lord Brougham's Villa Eleonore-Louise.    Others built during that period are the Villa Soligny and later the Villa Rothschild.

The Villa Soligny was built by the architect Rimbault, in 1866, and was the former property of Aristide Boucicaut, founder of the Bon Marche in Paris.   Today the luxurious residence is divided into apartments "offering top quality services and large terraces overlooking the sea".  


La Villa Soligny, Cannes

The Villa Rothschild was built in 1881 by Charles Baron Marseilles for Baroness Betty de Rothschild who lived there during the winter months with her family.  During the German occupation, it was requisitioned and turned into a Kommandatur.  After the war, in 1947, it was purchased by the city of Cannes and the municipal library was installed.


Villa Rothschild, Cannes


Famous churches of Cannes are:

The church Notre Dame de l’Esperance, which was completed in 1627, after more than a century of construction.  Created in late Gothic Style, it has a beautiful Renaissance porch and a square Romanesque bell-tower.  Since 1937, it has been classified as a historical monument.


Notre Dame de l'Esperance, Cannes

The Russian Orthodox Church of St. Michael the Archangel is built in the Quartier de la Californie.  Initially, it was a small private chapel, built in 1886 by a rich Russian heiress.   As the Russian aristocracy flowed into Cannes, the church had to be rebuilt and enlarged by the architect Louis Nouveau.  The church has blue domes over the roof and the interior has many beautiful icons.



The Russian Orthodox Church in Cannes

The Bellini Chapel was a private chapel of Villa Fiorentina, built by Count Vitali, in 1894.    Emmanuel Bellini purchased the chapel in 1953 and converted it into an art studio.  Today the colouful works of art of the famous painter are exhibited in the Bellini Chapel.



The Bellini Chapel-Gallery, Cannes

By Bellini Exhibited in the Bellini Chapel


With its winding narrow streets and picturesque medieval houses, Le Suquet is the oldest district in Cannes.   It was already a Roman camp by 154 B.C.   During the 11th century, the monks left the monastery on the island of St Honorat, for safety reasons, and built a fortress on the hill of Le Suquet, the "Croix de Garde".

In summer, one can enjoy open air concerts in front of the church of Notre Dame de l'Esperance and the adjacent courtyard of the Musee de la Castre.   This is the most renowned musical event of Cannes: "Les Nuits Musicales de Suquet".   By the sea, are the Vieux Port and the Quai de St. Pierre.  At the lower part of the old town, one can find the covered Marche de Forville with spectacular food.  Also the rue St. Antoine and rue de Suquet are full of trendy boutiques and fantastic gourmet restaurants.

Pertaining to food, which is the main object of this blog, in 1956, my husband and I went to "Coquillage Brun" and "Aux Bons Enfants", in Cannes, where we relished tremendous meals!!


Here are  several recipes of Provence, which I hope you will enjoy.


                                                         ANCHOIADE

Ready to Slice and Toast


Anchoiade de Provence

All the members of my family love this very tasty anchovy toast from Provence.


2 x 60 g (2 oz) tins of anchovy fillets in olive oil
2 garlic cloves, mashed
1 tbsp olive oil
120 g (4 oz) butter at room temperature
1 tsp  tarragon vinegar
1 tsp brandy
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp lemon juice
The zest of 1/2 a lemon
1 tbsp chopped parsley

10-12 slices French baguette


Drain the anchovy fillets, soak them for 10 minutes in cold water, to remove the extra salt, and pat  dry.

Blend the anchovies and garlic until the mixture is well combined.  With the machine running dribble in the olive oil until the mixture becomes  thick and smooth like a mayonnaise.  Lower the speed and add the butter in three portions.  Transfer the anchoiade into a bowl and stir in the vinegar, brandy, lemon juice, lemon zest and freshly ground black pepper.  Taste and  add a tiny pinch of salt, if necessary.  Finally, fold in the parsley.

Preheat the grill in the oven and grill the baguette slices on one side.   While still hot spread the untoasted side liberally with the anchoiade and bake in moderate oven 180 C (350 F) for 10-12 minutes.  Serve hot and bon appetit!


                                                         TAPENADE


A Mediterranean Treat 
This is another very tasty Provencal spread.

1 baguette thinly sliced
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Tapenade:
120 g (4 oz) pitted Kalamata olives
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 tbsp chopped parsley
2 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves only
1 garlic clove, crushed


Preheat the oven to 180 C (350 F).   Place the baguette slices on a tin, lined with baking parchment drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper and bake for 10 minutes until crisp.

Meanwhile,  process all the ingredients for the tapenade together until a thick paste is formed.  Spread each hot rusk lavishly with tapenade and serve immediately garnished with thyme sprigs.



                                                 BISQUE DE LANGOUSTE



Mediterranean Spiny Lobster Bisque  

Try preparing this lovely bisque made with spiny lobster (Palinurus Elephas).


3 live 500 g -750 g (1 lb -1 lb 8 oz) spiny lobster sliced (please see recipe) coral reserved

60 g (2 oz) butter, divided
3 stalks celery, trimmed and finely chopped
2 medium carrots, scraped and sliced
1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 tbsp tomato paste
Very little salt
1/2 tsp Cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp white pepper
1 sprig thyme

6 tbsp brandy
500 ml (2 cups) dry white wine
1500 ml (6 cups) hot tasty fish or chicken stock, free of all fat

2 tbsp rice
1 bouquet garni (1 bay leaf + 2 sprigs thyme + 3 sprigs parsley)
1 medium-sized tomato cut in half, seeds removed and coarsely grated, skins discarded
6 tbsp double cream

Chopped parsley for garnish

The most difficult part of this dish is killing the lobster.   Scientists insist that, as crustaceans possess an underdeveloped nervous system, they hardly feel any pain.  The best way is to kill it instantly.

Place a cleaver or a very sharp, heavy knife between the head (carapace) and the body of the lobster and split through, in a single blow.

Cut off the claws, also slice the tail, following the joints.  Split the head lengthwise and discard the sand sac, the intestinal cord, and the gills. Wash thoroughly.  Reserve the coral, if any, and the tomaley.

In a large saucepan, cook the vegetables, gently, in half the butter, stirring occasionally until soft.  Stir in the tomato paste and  add the lobster pieces.  When the shells redden, pour in the brandy and set alight  turning  the pieces of lobster over until the flames die down.  Then pour in the wine and cook over high heat until it is reduced by half.  Add enough hot stock to cover the lobster.  Lower the temperature and simmer for 5-7 minutes until the lobster is cooked and remove with a slotted spoon, not forgetting to also remove the claws.

Add the remaining stock, the bouquet garni, the grated tomato and the rice to the saucepan and cook over medium heat.

Meanwhile, remove the lobster meat from the shells and claws and add a few large shells into the boiling soup.  Dice the meat and reserve.

When the rice is cooked, carefully, fish the shells and the bouquet out of the soup and discard them.    Liquidise the rest together with most of the lobster cubes and the cream.  You could sieve the soup if you wish, but it is, really, not necessary if you are very meticulous with removing the shells.

Taste and season the soup with more salt and Cayenne, if necessary.   Mix the remaining butter with the coral and stir it into the hot soup together with the reserved lobster cubes.   Heat thoroughly but do not boil.  Serve the bisque de langouste piping hot, sprinkled with parsley and freshly ground white pepper.


                                   DAUBE DE BOEUF PROVENCAL



Daube de Beouf


Here is a recipe for a delicious comforting beef and vegetable stew from Provence.  The meat is juicy and tender in a thick, aromatic wine sauce seasoned with herbs and spices.


Bouquet garni:
2 sprig fresh thyme
1 small sprig fresh rosemary
1 bay-leaf
2 whole cloves
1 tsp black pepper corns
The peel of ½ orange
(Place everything in a piece of cheese cloth, and tie into a pouch with kitchen string)

1 kg (2 lb) chuck steak trimmed off all visible fat and cut into bite-sized pieces

2 carrots, scraped and cubed
2 medium onions, peeled and cubed
2 tender celery stalks, trimmed and thickly sliced on a slant
2 cloves garlic, crushed

750 ml (1 bottle) a rich red wine such as Cote de Provence or Agiorgotiko
250 ml (1 cup) beef stock

3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp heaped tomato paste


½ cup Nicoise or Kalamata olives, pitted and sliced


Start preparing this dish two days before you wish to serve it.  Place the meat, bouquet garni and vegetables into a Pyrex dish and mix well together, cover with wine.   Cover the dish with cling film and refrigerate overnight.

The next day, remove the meat and vegetables with a slotted spoon and pat dry.   Sauté the meat in batches, in olive oil until well browned, sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper, and arrange in a casserole.   Preheat the oven to 180 C (35O F).

In the same frying pan, stir fry the onions, carrots, celery and garlic over medium heat for about 5 minutes, add the tomato paste and keep stirring for 2 minutes more.  Pour in the wine and cook scraping all the brown bits from the frying pan.  Finally, pour everything into the casserole over the beef.  Add the hot beef stock, the bouquet garni, cover and bake the daube for 30-40 minutes of until the meat and vegetables are tender.    Add the olives and cook for 2 minutes more.   Discard the bouquet and serve it hot, the next day, with smashed potatoes or any pasta of your choice.  


                                             CHOUX A LA CREME


Profiterolles

The dough was invented by a chef called Pantarelli ot Pantanelli, in 1540.   Choux make favorite dessert and are delicious filled with ice-cream and covered with hot chocolate sauce.   In the original recipe, the choux are filled with crème patissière and covered with a chocolate ganache.   Below, find a recipe for profiteroles, small choux filled with whipped cream, covered with a delicious chocolate sauce,


Choux pastry:
115 g (½ cup) butter
250 ml (1 cup) water
A pinch of salt
130 g (1 cup) plain flour

1 extra egg-yolk whipped ½ tsp water (egg wash)

Filling:
500 ml (2 cups) thick cream, whipped to glossy peaks with
2-3 tbsp icing sugar, sifted
1-2 tbsp of the same liquor used in the chocolate sauce and refrigerated.

Chocolate sauce:
500 g (1 lb) dark chocolate
500 ml (2 cups) cream
1 tsp or more honey
1-2 tbsp rum or cognac or good quality brandy or Grand Marnier

For the pastry, bring water butter and salt to the boil and when the butter melts.   Remove from the fire and all the flour together and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon, until the dough forms a ball around the spoon.   Return to the fire and cook for 2-3 minutes more and set aside to cool.

Preheat the oven to 220 C (425 F).
When the dough has cooled down, add the eggs, one at a time, stirring thoroughly, until each egg is incorporated before add the next.

Line a baking dish with baking parchment.   With a piping bag or with the help of two coffee spoons make small mounds of choux pastry 2.5 cm (1 inch) apart.   Lightly brush each mound with egg wash and bake for 12-15 minutes, then lower the temperature to 180 C (350 F)  for 15-20 minutes more or until the choux are puffed and golden.   Turn off the oven, make a small incision in each choux and let them rest in the oven for 5 minutes more.  Then place on racks to cool.

Meanwhile prepare the ganache.   Place the chopped chocolate and the honey in a large bowl.   Heat the cream and pour over the chocolate and stir until the sauce is cold, smooth and shiny.  Finally stir in the alcohol of your choice. 

An hour before serving fill the choux with whipped cream, if there is any left over, reserve for garnishing, and dust with icing sugar.  Place the choux in a large bowl in layers, covering each layer lavishly with chocolate sauce.   Garnish with the reserved whipped cream, chocolate scrolls and almond flakes.