Tuesday 29 January 2013

Halcyon Days


      
       According to one version of the myth, Alcyone, daughter of Aeolus (a minor god in charge of the winds) was married to Ceyx, a mere mortal.  They were madly in love and even called each other “Zeus” and “Hera” when making love.   Zeus, king of the gods of Olympus, filled with mad fury by the couple’s arrogance and impiety, hurled thunder bolts against Ceyx’s ship, killing him instantly.   Poor Alcyone, struck by bitter grief, could not recover from this great loss.  Finally, the cyclothymic gods felt sorry for her and transformed her and Ceyx into halcyons (kingfishers).   They also instructed Aeolus to curb the winds for a period of 10-15 days, each winter, so that Alcyone could lay and hatch her eggs in safety, under calm and warm weather conditions.

          This myth explains the blue skies and warm sunny days that occur each year, in the heart of winter, in countries around the Mediterranean Sea.   In Greek, they are called "Alkyonides Hemeres" and in English "Halcyon Days".
    
           According to the weather forecast, the halcyon days are starting tomorrow.   Here are some recipes to celebrate the warm interlude.




 ATHENIAN BOILED FISH

                                             

 You can make a lovely soup from the fish stock.


2-2½ kg (4-5 lb) sea bream, grouper, blackfish, or fresh cod, scaled, cleaned
                                             and washed, sprinkled with salt and lemon juice
                                                                                               
                                                                                 
Court-bouillon
1 onion
2 celery stalks
1 leek
2 carrots
1 bay leaf
1 lemon slice
3 sprigs parsley
1½ litres (6 cups) water
Salt
½ litre (2 cups) white wine
½ tsp peppercorns

Garnish
Boiled carrots, boiled baby potatoes, boiled small courgettes, cherry tomatoes, tender lettuce leaves
1 tbsp capers, soaked for 30 minutes and dried
Chopped parsley

Olive oil and lemon dressing
Homemade mayonnaise

          Simmer the vegetables, herbs  in salted water for 15 minutes.   Pour in the wine and the peppercorns, and simmer for 15 minutes more.    Strain the court-bouillon into a large fish kettle and poach the fish for 20 minutes or more and let it cool in the stock.  Remove the fish and skin it, cut it in half lengthwise, discarding the backbone and the head, and carefully remove all the fish bones.
 
          Reassemble the fish in an oval dish, sprinkle with 2 tbsp of olive oil and lemon dressing and cover with a mild, homemade mayonnaise.  Surround the fish with carrots, baby potatoes, small courgettes, cherry tomatoes and tender lettuce leaves, using your imagination to prepare a really attractive result.   Sprinkle the vegetables with olive oil and lemon dressing and garnish the whole dish with chopped parsley and capers.   Serve with a green salad and more mayonnaise.

(Serves 6)

                                                   

F E N N E L   S O U P
                                                    



4 bulbs fennel, trimmed and chopped
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
2 leeks, sliced
2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
1 litre (4 cups) tasty chicken or vegetable stock
½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
Freshly grated white pepper to taste
A little salt , if necessary
250 ml (1 cup) full milk or cream
1 tbsp fennel leaves, finely chopped
1 tbsp lemon juice or more if preferred, optional
Fennel sprigs for garnish

            Partly cover the vegetables with water, simmer until tender, cool and blend.
Sieve the vegetable puree back into the saucepan.   Add the stock, pepper and nutmeg and simmer gently until the soup thickens, stirring from time to time.

           Stir in the milk or cream and the fennel leaves and heat very well without boiling. Sprinkle with lemon juice, if using. Taste and add a little salt, if necessary, and freshly ground white pepper.   Serve garnished with fennel sprigs.

(Serves 4-6)

                          

 ELPIDA’S SMOKED TROUT AND DILL DIP
                             
     

     By far a favourite dip!

100g (3 ½ oz) (1 packet) smoked trout
200 g (7 oz) low-fat yoghurt
1-2 tbsp low-fat mayonnaise
½ spring onion, chopped
2 tbsp dill  
Lemon juice to taste

     Put all ingredients in a blender and blend until they form a creamy sauce.  This dip  is best served with crackers or rusks.   

                                                  


EASTER MUSHROOM SOUP
                                             

           This is a delicious vegetarian soup, if prepared with olive oil and vegetable stock.  This soup has been inspired by “Magheritsa”, a well-known Easter soup, without the “Avgolemono”.

500 g (1 lb) fresh mushrooms finely chopped
6 dried porcini, soaked and chopped, soaking water strained and reserved
2 tbsp olive oil or butter
1 medium onion, grated
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsp flour
The tender leaves of 1 cos lettuce, shredded
2 tbsp dill or fennel, chopped
3-4 spring onions finely chopped
250 ml (1 cup) white wine
1.500 litre (6 cups) well seasoned chicken or vegetable stock
Lemon juice to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

            In a medium saucepan sauté the grated onion in 2 tablespoons olive oil or butter.   Add the fresh mushrooms, the porcini and the garlic and cook until all the liquid evaporates.   Stir in the flour and cook for 2-3 minutes more.  Then pour in half the wine and keep on stirring, until it evaporates.   Pour in 2 ladlefuls of chicken or vegetable stock and the reserved porcini liquid and simmer for about 15 minutes. It should have the consistency of a thick mushroom sauce.
  
          In a large saucepan, sauté the spring onions in the remaining oil or butter, add a pinch of salt and the shredded lettuce and cook for 3 minutes more.   Pour in the remaining wine and let it evaporate.   Add the remaining stock and simmer, until the vegetables are almost done and combine with the mushroom mixture.
   
          Add the chopped fennel or dill and cook the soup 5 minutes more.  Sprinkle with lemon juice, according to taste.  Correct seasoning with salt, if necessary.   Also add a little hot water if the soup is too thick.   Bring the soup to a simmer and sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper.  Serve immediately.

(Serves 6-8) 



OCTOPUS WITH FENNEL AND WINE
                                         


          Fennel bulbs are cultivated broadly in Greece.   They are popular and appear in many Greek dishes. This dish is based on an old Cretan recipe cooked with tomatoes, wine, and masses of wild fennel leaves.

1.5 kg (3 lbs) octopus, cleaned and thoroughly washed,
250 ml (1 cup) dry white wine
4-6   peppercorns
80 ml (1/3 cup) olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
3 spring onions, finely chopped
4 fennel bulbs, trimmed and quartered (from
                         stem to root), stalks peeled
1-2 tbsp flour
1 cup or more vegetable stock (made with 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 garlic clove,
                                                      fennel trimmings, salt and pepper)          
 The juice of ½ a lemon

½ cup finely chopped fennel leaves
1-2 tbsp or more ouzo

           Place the octopus in a pressure cooker and cook uncovered until the octopus releases its juices.  Lock the lid and simmer for about 6 minutes, then uncover, turn the octopus over, add the peppercorns and a little wine if necessary and cook for another10-12 minutes with the lid locked.   By this time it should be cooked. If not, give it some extra time.  If you use an ordinary saucepan, the cooking time should be around 1½ hours.   Remove the dark membrane but not the suction cups from the octopus, cut it into bite-sized pieces, and reserve.

          Saute the onions in olive oil, until soft.   Add the fennel bulbs and cook for 5 minutes. Then stir in the flour, pour in the lemon juice and vegetable stock, and simmer covered, for about ¼ hour or until the bulbs are just cooked, stirring once or twice.   Add the octopus pieces, sprinkle with the fennel leaves and cook gently for another five minutes.   Finally douse with ouzo and simmer a few minutes more until the alcohol evaporates.  Taste and adjust seasoning with salt, if necessary, and freshly ground pepper.   Serve with iced ouzo.

(Serves 6-8)




 TART WITH PASTRY CREAM AND PRUNES

Pastry
1½ cup self-raising flour
1 cup butter, cut into bits
3 tbsp icing sugar
½ tsp vanilla
½ tsp grated lemon peel
1 egg yolk
A little water

For the prunes
1 cup sugar
2 tbsp brown sugar
1 cinnamon stick
15-20 dried, pitted prunes

Pastry Cream
3 cups milk
3 tbsp sugar
Vanilla
3 tbsp cornflour
3 egg-yolks
2 tbsp brandy or rum

1 egg white slightly beaten

          For the dough combine the flour with the icing sugar, vanilla and lemon peel.  Rub in the butter until the mixture resembles bread crumbs. Add the egg yolk and water and stir until a soft, pliable dough is obtained.  Cover and refrigerate for at least an hour.

          Poach the prunes with the water, sugar, cinnamon stick until the prunes are cooked and the syrup thickens. Add the brandy or rum and simmer 3-4 minutes more. Cool.

           Prepare the pastry cream.  Beat the egg yolks with the sugar until light and fluffy.  Warm the milk and pour into the egg mixture and stir thoroughly.  Mix the corn flour with a little milk (1-2 tbsp) and stir into the above mixture. Transfer to the saucepan and simmer very gently, stirring until the custard thickens and is about to come the boiling point and just simmer for a moment or two. Remove from the fire and cover the surface with cling film, to prevent it forming a crust, and set aside to cool.

          Roll out the pastry and line a buttered tart dish. Poke the pastry all over with the prongs of a fork, to prevent it from rising and bake it, in an oven preheated to 180 C (350 F) for 15 minutes.  Remove from the oven, brush all over with egg white and bake 10 minutes more or until golden and crisp. Let cool.

         Two hours before serving, beat the pastry cream until smooth and glossy, and spread evenly over the tart. Cover attractively with the prunes and syrup.  
  




Thursday 17 January 2013

Demetris Voyiatzis


Forty-two year old actor, Demetris Voyiatzis, brought a tragic end to his life on the 30th December, 2012.  The whole country was shocked and numbed by this dramatic event which was, apparently, due to the economic crisis that has rendered so many Greeks to unemployment and poverty.
            
             Demetris was a talented actor who had taken part in many theatrical plays, ancient drama, and a few TV series.   In “ Aerines Siopes” (Airy Silences), he played the part of a flight lieutenant, a helicopter pilot, deeply in love with a girl, diagnosed  with fatal cancer.  I shall never forget the utter despair and sorrow in his eyes, that made us all comment on his extraordinary acting abilities.  

             The last time I saw him was in Aristophanes’ “Peace”, by the Petros Philippides Acting Company, in the summer of 2011.  Since then he was unemployed with all the consequences that unemployment brings, the feeling of failure, the humiliation of debt.  His friends tried to convince him not to fret so much, that better days would come. But alas he decided to take, the greatest gift ever offered to him, his own life.  

            Our condolences to his loved ones in their deep sorrow.   May the fact that Demetris was loved by his friends and very highly esteemed by his audiences and colleagues, bring a shadow of comfort to them.  







          Here are a few recipes for low-calorie, low-priced dishes to match the times.


A DIP WITH RED PEPPERS
                                             

      This is a very refreshing dip for summer.
3 pickled, roasted Florina peppers, or any other red peppers, roasted
                                                                           peeled and seeded                 
                                                                                       
200 g (7 oz -1 tub) yoghurt
200 g (7 oz) feta cheese
½ spring onion, chopped
1 tbsp olive oil
Freshly milled black pepper
If using fresh peppers you might need to add
1 tsp tarragon vinegar

          If using bottled, pickled peppers, remove any scorched skin left on,  and dry on kitchen paper.
         Blend all the ingredients together thoroughly. Taste for seasoning and adjust with salt, pepper and vinegar, if necessary. Serve sprinkled with olive oil.




MARIA’S ANCHOVIES COOKED IN VINEGAR

                                                   

          Maria Spathopoulos and her husband George are old friends of my children.   They are a very nice couple and wonderful parents.   Maria is also an excellent and imaginative cook.  This is a way of “cooking” fish, not by heat but by the acidity of vinegar, like South American “Ceviche”.

1 kg (2 lbs) anchovies, cleaned, scaled, heads removed and boned,
                                                                            but kept in 1 piece
1 tbsp salt
About 250 ml (1 cup) vinegar or more

2 scales garlic (optional)
Enough olive oil to cover

          Arrange the anchovies neatly in a shallow glass dish.  Dissolve the salt in vinegar, pour over the fish to cover, and refrigerate for about 2 days
.
          Strain and place in a glass or plastic container interspersed with sliced garlic cloves, if using, and cover with olive oil.   Serve the anchovy fillets garnished with lemon wedges and a green salad.




STELLA’S BAKE FROM THESSALY
BATZINA

Batzina is usually cut into squares and offered as an appetizer.

500 g (1 lb) grated courgettes
Salt and pepper
1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper, optional
1 egg
120 ml (1/2 cup) evaporated milk
300 g (10 ½ oz) feta, coarsely grated
500 g (1 lb) all purpose flour, it might not need all the flour
45 g (3 tbsp) olive oil
Some extra oil for the baking sheet

              First place the courgettes in a bowl, sprinkle with salt, mix well and leave to rest for at least ½ hour.   Then squeeze well with the palms of your hands to extract as much moisture as possible.
Put the courgettes in a bowl with all the other ingredients, and mix thoroughly.

          Arrange the dough in a large, well-oiled baking sheet and smooth the top with oiled hands  It should not be more than 2 ½ cm (1 in) high.  Pour the remaining olive oil on top and brush all the surface.   Bake the batsina in a medium oven, preheated to 190C (375 F), for about 1 hour.






TURKEY PATTIES


          These patties are perfect for a diet.     

½ kg (1 lb) minced turkey
1 onion, grated
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 small tomato, cut in half, deseeded, grated, skin discarded
½ an apple, peeled and grated
The grated rind of 1 lemon
1 tbsp vinegar
2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped
A few mint leaves, finely chopped or
1 tbsp basil, finely chopped
A little olive oil
Lemon juice

          Mix the first 10 ingredients together and shape into patties.  Place them on a baking dish, lined with baking parchment, and brush with olive oil.  Bake in an oven preheated to 190 C (375 F) for about 30 minutes or until thoroughly cooked but not dry.   Serve immediately, sprinkled with lemon juice.



YOUGURT AND MOCK LEMON CURD CREAM

 This is a light and easy dessert.


One 397 g ( about 13.25 oz) tin condensed milk
2-3 lemons, the juice
1 lemon, the grated rind
800 g (about 26 1/2  oz) yogurt

              Stir the condensed milk with the lemon juice and rind until thick and creamy.  Add the yogurt and whip until well mixed.  Place in a bowl, cover and chill.  Serve the cream sprinkled with extra grated lemon rind.



Monday 7 January 2013

On The Twelfth Day Of Christmas





  
On the first day of Christmas
My true love sent to me
A Partridge in a Pear Tree

On the second day of Christmas
My true love sent to me
Two Turtle Doves and
A Partridge in a Pear Tree

 …………………………

On the twelfth day of Christmas
My true love sent to me
Twelve Drummers Drumming
Eleven Pipers Piping
Ten Lords a-leaping
Nine Ladies dancing
Eight Maids a-milking
Seven Swans a-swimming
Six Geese a-laying
Five Golden Rings
Four Calling Birds
Three French Hens
Two Turtle Doves and
A Partridge in the Pear Tree


           I am writing this small text on the twelfth night of Christmas with a feeling of deep gratitude and gratification because four generations of our family met for Christmas lunch.  We made the acquaintance of our adorable great-granddaughter, who came with her parents straight from the airport to meet us.

            Here are five recipes for the Twelfth Night of Christmas and for St. John the Baptist’s Day, the 7th January.

  

AVOCADOS STUFFED WITH SEAFOOD
                                        


This is a tasty dish for special occasions.


5 ripe avocados, halved, stoned and drenched with lemon juice
2 ½ tbsp very finely chopped spring onions, white part only,
2 ½ tbsp sweet red pepper, finely cubed
1 tbsp parsley, finely chopped
½ tbsp dill, finely chopped (optional)
1 small tomato, peeled, seeded and finely chopped
Lemon juice to taste
Salt and white pepper to taste
Few drops Tobasco sauce (optional)
500 g (1 lb) sauteed crabmeat, or baby shrimp, shelled, de-veined and sauteed with
                                a sprig of rosemary and a pinch of salt
4 tbsp Naxos Graviera or Cheddar, grated and mixed with
3 tbsp or Parmesan, grated


         Scoop out the flesh from the avocado halves, moisten the shells with lemon juice and set aside.
        Mash the avocado flesh into a smooth pulp.   Add the chopped onions, the sweet red peppers, herbs, tomato, lemon juice, salt, pepper and Tobasco, if using, and mix well together. Taste for seasoning and adjust, if necessary. Then add the seafood and mix together gently.   Spoon the mixture into the prepared avocado shells, sprinkle with grated cheese and arrange in a heated baking dish.   
         Pour a cup of hot water in the baking dish around the avocados, place under a very hot grill and cook just until the cheese bubbles and turns golden, (not more than 2-3 minutes).   Serve with a green salad.

(Serves 10 as an appetiser, and 5 as a meal)     
  

                                  


DOLLY’S CHOCOLATE ROLL

                                        
         Dolly Cocali is my sister-in-law, a very dear friend, with a sweet and generous nature.

          One could spread this delicious cake with chocolate cream, chestnut cream or praline cream, if a sweeter taste is preferred.

7 medium sized eggs separated, whites whipped into stiff peaks with a pinch of salt
400 g (2 cups) sugar
100 g (1 cup) cocoa
500 g (1 lb) slightly sweetened whipped cream
Icing sugar (for garnishing)

           Beat the egg yolks with the sugar until light and creamy.   Add the cocoa and mix thoroughly.

          Spoon the mixture into a Swiss-roll tin, lined with baking parchment, and level the surface.  Bake it in an oven preheated to 190 C (375 F), for about 20 minutes until well risen, but do not over cook.  Remove from the oven and cool slightly.
     
           Turn out the cake on baking parchment sprinkled with icing sugar, remove the lining parchment from the top and trim the edges. Then roll the warm cake and the parchment together, and set aside to cool. 

          Unroll the cake carefully, removing the parchment.  Spread it with whipped cream or chestnut cream or praline cream, if preferred. fold it up like a Swiss roll and place it on a serving dish.  Dust the top of the roll with icing sugar or garnish it with whipped cream and fresh strawberries, partly dipped in melted chocolate.

(Serves 8)

           

               


 PHYLLO POUCHES FILLED WITH VEGETABLES AND CHEESE
                                             
                                       


          You can use any vegetables that combine well for this vegetarian dish.  Children just love it!

3 medium courgettes, thinly sliced
2 large potatoes, cubed and parboiled in vegetable stock
2 medium carrots, cubed and parboiled in vegetable stock
2 tender celery stalks, trimmed and chopped
2 spring onions, chopped
1 clove garlic, bruised
125 g (1 cup) feta cheese, grated
2 tbsp kephalotyri or Parmesan, grated
1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper
120 ml (½ cup) olive oil or
120 ml (½ cup) melted butter
6 sheets of phyllo pastry
1-2 tbsp fine dried breadcrumbs
6 spring onion stalks, blanched until pliable or
6 chive stalks

            Sauté the courgettes, spring onions, celery and garlic in 2 tbsp olive oil.  Add the potatoes and carrots and cook gently, until the vegetables are tender.  Use some of the stock from the potatoes and carrots, if necessary

          Sprinkle the vegetables with the grated cheeses, and stir until the feta melts, then sprinkle with Cayenne, and stir again.   Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt, if necessary, and freshly ground pepper.  Discard the garlic.

         Line an ovenproof dish with baking parchment. Fold each phyllo sheet in two, breadth wise, and cut it in two equal pieces.   Brush each piece with melted butter.    Place one piece of phyllo on top of the other, forming a cross and sprinkle the centre with breadcrumbs. 

          Add 1/6 of the filling in the centre of each crossed phyllo piece, bring the ends together and tie with the spring onion or chive stalk, to form a pouch.  Brush the pouches with melted butter and bake in an oven preheated 190 C (375 F) until the pastry turns crisp and golden.  Serve with a salad of rocket and cherry tomatoes.

(6 pieces)



 BEEF FILLET WITH MUSHROOMS AND HERBS
                                     

          You could alternatively prepare this dish with a dry red wine.

10 slices beef fillet 2.5 cm (1 inch) thick, marinated, for at least 1 hour in:
4 tbsp garlic-scented olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp chopped marjoram leaves

Herbed Butter
4 tbsp soft butter
1 spring onion, very finely chopped
1 tbsp parsley, very finely chopped
½ tsp lemon juice
Salt and, freshly ground pepper

Mushroom Sauce
2 tbsp olive oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 large onion, chopped
500 g (1 lb) fresh mushrooms, stalks chopped, caps quartered
2-3 tbsp duxelles (see “Stuffed Mushrooms”)
2 tbsp flour
2 tbsp brandy
360 ml (1½ cup) or more, chicken or mushroom stock
1 tbsp tomato paste, diluted in ¼ cup water
1 tsp fresh marjoram, finely chopped
1 tbsp parsley, finely chopped
60 ml (¼ cup) sweet red wine

           First prepare the herb butter.  Combine all ingredients together and, with the help of a piece of greaseproof paper, shape a small cylinder.  Cover and freeze it.
 
          For the sauce, sauté the onion and the garlic, in olive oil, until soft.  First add the mushroom stalks, then the caps and chopped marjoram and sauté quickly until quite dry.  Sprinkle with brandy and cook until the alcohol evaporates.  Add the flour and cook for 2-3 minutes more.  Pour in the stock and simmer, stirring, for 5-8 minutes until the sauce thickens. Stir in the duxelles and simmer for 2 minutes more.   Sprinkle with parsley, and keep hot.

          Cook the steaks in two batches.   Place a frying-pan over very high heat and brown the steaks quickly on one side, season with salt and pepper, then turn, brown and season the other side.  Lower the heat and cook until the meat is done as preferred, about 5-10 minutes.  
 
         Arrange the fillet steaks on a hot serving dish, place a slice of herbed butter over, and keep hot.  Add the mushroom sauce in the frying pan, and quickly cook and stir.  Pour in the sweet red wine cook for a bare moment and spoon half the sauce over the steaks.  Serve immediately with mashed potatoes, sautéed vegetables and the remaining sauce.

 (Serves 5-8)   

                     


   LAMB FRICASSEE

                                                     

            Artichokes may be substituted for lettuce or endives.

1½ kg (3 lb) leg of lamb, boned, trimmed of excess fat and cut into egg-sized pieces
Salt and pepper to taste
2 tbsp butter
A little olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
½ kg (1 lb) spring onions, chopped including the tender green parts
250 ml (1 cup) dry white wine
1 heaped tbsp flour, dissolved in
1 cup water
1½ kg (3 lb) cos lettuce, coarsely sliced, or
1½ kg (3 lb) curly endive blanched and roughly chopped
2 tbsp dill or fennel, finely chopped
4 egg yolks
1 lemon, juice only
120 ml (½ cup) hot full milk
8 slices of bread, each trimmed and halved into triangles, fried or toasted.

             Sauté the meat in butter and olive oil, in a large saucepan,. until slightly browned.  Add the onion and spring onions and simmer for 5-7 minutes stirring occasionally. Sprinkle the meat with salt and pepper and pour in the wine and cook for 2-3 minutes more.  Add the flour/water solution and enough hot water to partly cover the meat and simmer until it is nearly cooked.
    
           Add the lettuce or endives, and season with a little salt and freshly ground pepper.  Simmer until both the meat and vegetables are cooked stir in the dill or fennel. Check if there is enough cooking liquid for the sauce and add a little hot water if necessary.   Remove the saucepan from the fire.
 
          Beat the egg yolks with a little water and the lemon juice.  Gradually add 2 ladlefuls of cooking liquid, beating constantly and pour over the fricassee.  Bring to a very gentle simmer but do not boil. Add the milk and stir.  Serve piping hot garnished with fried or toasted bread.

(Serves 8)