Sunday 31 August 2014

The Last Day of Summer

 Since I was a child, I consider the 31st of August the last day of summer.   Officially, in the N. Hemisphere, the actual date is the 21st September.

It has been a terrible summer.  The very serious crisis in the Ukraine, the blood-curdling crimes, (worse than those of the Inquisition?) and the barbaric mass murders in N. Iraq, the terrors of civil of war in Syria, the unrest in Pakistan and Afghanistan, the turmoil in N. Africa, Somalia, Nigeria and Mali.  Moreover the outbreak of the Ebola epidemic which is, apparently, spreading out of control in W. Africa and will become much worse before this dreadful disease is finally conquered.   We can only hope and pray for peace, sanity and health.



As an embargo has been imposed on our peaches by Russia, here a few recipes with this delicious fruit.



                                    

                                                         




                                                                 PEACH JAM


                                                                       




Greek peaches are famous for their aroma and savour and are exported all over the world, both fresh and tinned.  Try preparing this easy peach jam which, I'm sure, you'll enjoy.


1 kg (2 lb) peaches, peeled, stone discarded, and roughly cut into pieces
A little water
750 g (1 1/2  lb) caster sugar
1-2 tbsp lemon juice
1 liqueur glass good quality brandy, Metaxa would be wonderful

Simmer the peaches with about 1/4 cup water for 15 minutes.   Stir in the sugar and simmer for 15 minutes more, skimming thoroughly.  Remove from the fire and set aside for 24 hours.   The next day simmer the jam for 15 minutes or until it thickens.  Add the lemon juice and brandy, stir and simmer a few minutes more.

Fill prepared jars with scalding jam, seal and turn them upside down.  The next day, or when the jars are completely cold, turn them over and put them in a cupboard.   When you open a jar, be sure to store it in the fridge.




                                                               PEACH TART



                                                         


                   


I have no words for this tart.  Prepare the pastry and the peaches one day before serving.

Pastry:
300 g (10 oz) plain flour mixed with
2 tbsp icing sugar
A pinch of salt
1 tbsp sunflower oil
150 g (5 oz) butter, chilled and diced
1-2 tbsp iced water

Peach filling:
500 g (1 lb) ripe, but firm, peaches, peeled and pitted
100 g (½ cup) caster sugar or more
The peel of ¼ lemon
½ a liqueur glass Grand Marnier

Topping:
3 medium sized eggs
1 pinch salt
120 g (4 oz) caster sugar
Vanilla

60 g (2 oz) plain flour sifted with
1 bare tsp baking powder

100 g (almost 1 cup) yogurt mixed with
½ a liqueur glass Grand Marnier.


First make the pastry.   Rub the oil and butter with the flour mixture, until it resembles fine bread crumbs.   Moisten with just enough iced water to bring the dough together.   Dust it with a little flour, wrap it with cling film.   Refrigerate the dough for at least 30 minutes before using.

Meanwhile, slice the peaches and simmer very, very gently with the sugar and the lemon peel, until they are cooked.   Discard the lemon peel, sprinkle with the Grand Marnier and simmer for 2 minutes more, remove from the fire and set aside to cool.

Prepare the topping.    Whip the eggs, salt sugar and vanilla until pale and doubled in bulk.  Sift the flour and baking powder over and mix gently to combine.   Finally fold in the yogurt/Grand Marnier mixture.

When ready to make the tart preheat the oven to 180 C (350 F).   Roll out the dough very thinly to make a circle and use this to line a greased tart tin.  Cover with parchment paper and beans, in a single layer, and bake for 12-15 minutes.  Remove from the oven, and discard the beans and allow the tart to cool..

Arrange the peach slices attractively over the pastry shell and pour the topping over.  Bake in an oven preheated to 180 C (350 F) for 20 minutes.  Cut the peach tart in wedges and serve with peach syrup.





PEACH CHUTNEY




                                                                              






No curry is perfect without one or two chutneys and a relish.   You could also prepare this chutney with tinned peaches.

1 kg (2 lb) peaches, peeled, stones removed
1 tsp salt

6 cloves of garlic, peeled
40 g (1 1/3 oz) peeled ginger root, grated
375 ml (1 ½ cup) vinegar
600 g (3 cups) sugar, more, if the peaches are not completely ripe
1/8 - ½ tsp Cayenne pepper
More salt if necessary

First slice the peaches, sprinkle them with 1 tsp salt and set aside.

Blend the garlic, ginger, and half the vinegar until smooth.

Simmer the remaining vinegar with the sugar, until the sugar melts.   Stir in the garlic/ginger mixture and cook, over low heat, for 20 minutes.
Stir in the peaches, bring to the boil, and simmer very, very gently, until the chutney thickens.  This takes about an hour or more 

Add the Cayenne, a little at a time, stirring and adding, according to taste. Add a little more salt if necessary and cook for 2-3 minutes longer.      Remove the saucepan from the heat, allow the chutney to cool, and spoon it into prepared jars.    Seal and store them in the refrigerator.






PEACH CRUMBLE CAKE






You can also prepare this delicious cake with raw apples, peeled and sliced.


3 ripe but firm peaches, peeled, pitted and sliced
6 tbsp or more caster sugar
A 5 cm (2 inch) orange peel

Cake:
250 g (½ lb) butter, extra for greasing the tin
250g (½ lb) brown sugar

250 g (½ lb) self raising flour, sifted with
1 tsp cinnamon
½ tsp ginger powder
½ tsp grated nutmeg
An ample pinch of salt

1 large orange, the grated rind
1 tsp baking powder
1 mere tsp bicarbonate of soda
6 medium-sized eggs
4-6 tbsp yogurt

Simmer the sliced peaches with the sugar and orange peel, until the peaches are cooked and the syrup thickens.    Discard the peel, drain the peaches and set aside to cool. Also reserve the syrup.

Whip the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy.   Sift the flour mixture over, and work with your finger tips or blend, until the ingredients crumble. Do not over handle.  Reserve 1 ample cup of these crumbs for later.

To the remaining crumbs add the grated orange rind, baking powder and baking soda and mix well together.   Stir the eggs, one at a time, and then the yogurt and stir thoroughly until the batter is smooth.  

Spoon half the batter in a buttered 25 cm (10 inch) spring-form tin, arrange the poached peaches, evenly over, and cover with the remaining batter.  Sprinkle with the reserved crumbs and bake in an oven preheated to 180 C (350 F) for about 45 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the centre of the cake comes out clean.    Wait for 10 minutes before removing from the tin and serve at room temperature with a spoonful of the reserved syrup.  

                      


                            

           
                                       PORK FILET WITH PEACHES AND HONEY











I was trying to concoct this recipe on the day of the Scottish referendum.    To honour the Scots, I used whisky instead of brandy for this dish.  Do try it!


6 pork filets, about 1.800 kg  (3lb 10 oz), sliced, each slice flattened with the palm of your hand
2 tbsp olive oil
2 scant tsp clarified butter
1 twig of rosemary
A little salt and freshly ground pepper
1 liqueur glass Greek brandy or Scotch whisky
About 1 litre (4 cups) or more chicken stock
8 peaches, peeled, pitted and roughly chopped
1 tsp “four spices” (please see below)
1 – 1 ½ tbsp honey or more

250 ml (1 cup) or more cream for the sauce

Four Spices Mix:
1 tsp finely ground black pepper
½ tsp cinnamon powder
½ tsp finely ground cloves
½ tsp: finely grated nutmeg
Mix well together
(I, also,add ½ tsp ginger powder)

Heat the olive oil and clarified butter with the rosemary and sauté the meat, in batches.   Discard the rosemary.   Sprinkle the filet sparingly with salt and pepper.   Place all the meat slices back into the saucepan, heat thoroughly, drizzle with brandy or whisky and cook for a few minutes more..

Arrange the peach slices over the meat, pour just enough chicken stock to cover, sprinkle with the spice mix and stir in a little honey.  Simmer gently for 15 to 20 minutes or until the meat is thoroughly cooked but still tender.  Do not over cook!

Remove the meat and blend the peaches to a smooth, orange coloured sauce.  Taste and add more honey, salt or spice mix, according to preference.   Add the meat to the sauce and cook for 1-2 minutes more.   Stir in the cream, heat but do not boil.  Serve with steamed rice or mashed potatoes









  

Friday 15 August 2014

1953 PART V - Athens


After the earthquakes destroyed Cephalonia on the 12th August, 1953, we stayed in Argostoli, for five days, under very difficult circumstances.   During the day the heat was unbearable.   Water and food was restricted to the minimum.   We sat and slept on the ground, but we could, at least, wash in the sea, with special bars of soap, kindly provided by the sailors of war ships that had arrived to help.   A solidarity prevailed, that I had never witnessed before.  We helped each other, paying more attention and care to the old, the weak and the very young.   Fortunately, my compatriots were very brave and resilient and there was a prevelent feeling of optimism for better days 

We left Cephalonia with my parents, my cousin Ioanna and her daughters, Dia and Malvina.   We arrived in Piraeus on the 18th August 1953 and from there to a hotel in Athens.

Athens, is surrounded by the mountain chains of Parnis, Hemettus, Penteli and the sea.   One needs less than half an hour to reach the sea from the mountains.  Is this possible in any other European capital?   In 1953, post war Athens was a beautiful city.   The avenues were lined with orange trees, and squares and parks were planted with palm trees, shrubs and multicoloured flowers.  Elegant mansions and beautiful early 20th century houses adorned the city.    Unfortunately most of these gems were, later, demolished and replaced by blocks of flats.    

I don’t want to be misunderstood, I'm only reminiscing.    Athens is still beautiful and inviting, its infrastructure is similar to that of any other large, contemporary city.   The archaeological sites of the historic centre are, now, linked together into a fascinating 2 ¼ km walk. The new Acropolis Museum is one of the best in the world.    Also one can find excellent galleries, shops, boutiques, cafees, restaurants, bars and, despite the credit crunch, it has a very lively night life.   Athens never sleeps!  And let us never forget that Athens is the cradle of Western Civilization and Democracy.

 Back to 1953.  We spent a fortnight at Loutraki, a sea resort, 60 km west of Athens, which is well known for its springs and therapeutic spas.  I had a wonderful time, there, with my cousins and friends, swimming during the day and dancing at night.     

We returned to Athens and rented a flat, near Syntagma Square.   We met with old and new friends and enjoyed our remaining home leave   We often went to the theater and attended concerts at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus.  I had never listened to music in an ancient theatre before.   The acoustics were fantastic, one couldn’t miss the faintest note and the atmosphere had a magic quality   

As for the theatre, we had the most talented actors, like Marika Kotopouli, Aimilios Veakis, Katina Paxinou, Alekos Minotis, public idols like Ellie Lambeti, Demetris Horn and younger prodigies like Alekos Alexandrakis, Anna Synodinou, Antigoni Valakou.  I saw Albert Husson’s “ The Three Angels” with Ellie Lambetis,- Demitris Horn and Demtris Pappas, four times!

We had the most fabulous meals at Psaropoulos in Glifada, Xinos in Plaka, Philippou, Ideal and Costis in the centre of Athens, and in snug little restaurants all over Attika.   I shall always remember how much we enjoyed the milles feuilles at Zaharatos, loukoumades (fried puffs) at Bocolas, the delicious orange gateau and Chicago ice cream at “Ellinikon”, the excellent coffee at “Likovryssi”.

One of my father’s young colleagues, Alecos Cocalis, invited us to his home in Kifissia, where we met his parents and his brothers Pericles with his wife Dolly, and Nicos with his wife Cleo.    Little did I know then, that in less than a year, I would be a part of this family. 




Here are a few recipes for the dishes and sweets we enjoyed in Athens in 1953.



                                              
                                              ATHENIAN BOILED FISH


                                            

 You can make a lovely soup from the fish stock.

2-2½ kg (4-5 lb) sea bream, grouper, blackfish, or fresh cod, scaled, cleaned
                                             and washed, sprinkled with salt and lemon juice
                                                                                               
                                                                                 
Court-bouillon
1 onion
2 celery stalks
1 leek
2 carrots
1 bay leaf
1 lemon slice
3 sprigs parsley
30 g (1 oz) slice fresh ginger, peeled
1½ litres (6 cups) water
Salt
½ litre (2 cups) white wine
½ tsp peppercorns

Garnish
Boiled carrots, boiled baby potatoes, boiled small courgettes, cherry tomatoes, tender lettuce leaves
Chopped parsley

Olive oil and lemon dressing
Homemade mayonnaise


Simmer the vegetables, herbs  in salted water for 15 minutes.   Pour in the wine and the peppercorns, and simmer for 15 minutes more.

Strain the court-bouillon into a large fish kettle and poach the fish for 20-30 minutes or more , if necessary,  Remove the fish and let it drain.  Skin it, while still hot, cut it in half, discarding the backbone and the head and carefully remove all the fish bones. 
 
Reassemble the fish on an oval dish, sprinkle with 2 tbsp of olive oil and lemon dressing and cover with a mild, homemade mayonnaise.  Surround the fish with carrots, baby potatoes, small courgettes, cherry tomatoes and tender lettuce leaves, using your imagination to prepare a really attractive result.   Sprinkle the vegetables with olive oil and lemon dressing and spinkle with chopped parsley..   Serve with a green salad and extra mayonnaise.

(Serves 6)




 OKRA, TOMATOES AND ONIONS COOKED IN OLIVE OIL

Μπάμιες Λαδερές



Even if you hate okra, try this recipe, you might change your mind.

1 kg baby okra, stems removed, the conical part thinly trimmed
120 ml vinegar
Salt

120 ml (½ cup) olive oil
2 large onions, chopped
4 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cubed
1 tsp or more sugar
2-3 tbsp chopped parsley
Salt and pepper to taste

Place the okra in a dish, sprinkle with salt and vinegar and set aside for at least 30 minutes, in the sun if possible. Then rinse thoroughly, dry and sauté it in 2-3 tbsp olive oil.  Remove and set aside.  

In the same saucepan cook the onion with a little water for about 5 minutes until the water evaporates.  Stir in the remaining olive oil, add the tomato, sugar, salt and pepper and cook for 10 minutes more. 
Then arrange the okra neatly in the tomato sauce, cover with a piece of baking parchment and the lid, and simmer gently for about 20 minutes, until the okra is tender.   Shake the saucepan occasionally during the cooking period, and add a little hot water to prevent sticking.  Taste for seasoning and correct if necessary.   Serve with fried potatoes or as a garnish to roast chicken.

                                                         


                                                          FRIED PUFFS
                                                           Λουκουμάδες

                             



There are certain sweet shops in Greece that exclusively sell “loukoumades”.

250 g (½ lb) all-purpose flour
(1 packet) instant dried yeast
1 tsp sugar
½ tsp salt
1/8 tsp grated nutmeg
250 ml (1 cup) lukewarm water
Oil for deep frying
Honey
Cinnamon
Chopped walnuts (optional)


Combine all the dry ingredients together in a bowl, add the water gradually and mix thoroughly to make a smooth batter, soft enough to fall from a spoon.

Cover the bowl with a towel and let the batter prove until almost doubled in bulk and bubbly on the surface.
Heat about 10 cm (4 in) oil, in a deep saucepan and with the help of 2 teaspoons, drop spoonfuls of batter and fry until puffed, crisp and golden. (Dip spoons in cold water each time before dipping in batter to prevent it from sticking to the spoons).

Remove the puffs and drain them on kitchen paper.
Serve them warm and crisp, sprinkled with honey and cinnamon, and chopped walnuts, if using.

(Serves 4-6)




VANILLA ICE CREAM WITH HOT CHOCOLATE SAUCE
 Παγωτό Σικάγο

This is a very easy ice cream, very popular with both children and grownups.

A vanilla pod
500 g (2 cups) full milk
200 g (1 cup) sugar
A good pinch of salt
500 g (2 cups) thick cream

Chocolate Sauce
120 g (4 oz) dark chocolate, melted and mixed with
4-5 tbsp sweet condensed milk


 Split the vanilla pod and scrape the seeds into the milk.  Heat the milk, sugar and salt, stirring until the sugar melts, and cool.   Stir in the cream, pour into a covered container and place in the freezer.   After 1½ hours beat the cream, cover and return it quickly to the freezer.  Repeat the procedure twice more.

Serve the ice cream in bowls and pour 1-2 tbsp hot chocolate sauce on top. 





MILLE FEUILLES

  
This superb dessert can be made with a plain, a chocolate or a fruit pastry cream.

One 400 g (10 1/3 oz) sheet ready made puff pastry
2 teaspoons caster sugar
2 baking tins
2 pieces baking parchment, larger than the pastry sheet


Pastry Cream:
500 ml (2 cups) full milk
½ a vanilla pod, split in half, lengthwise

125 g (an ample 4 oz) caster sugar
5 large or 6 medium sized egg yolks
45 g (½ oz) plain flour
A large pinch of salt

1 liqueur glass Grand Marnier or any other liquor of your choice

Garnish:
Icing sugar and slivered almonds or
White icing




First bake the puff pastry.    Preheat the oven to 180 C (375 F).   Line one of the baking tins with a piece of baking parchment and place the puff pastry over.  Sprinkle evenly with 1 tsp sugar, cover with the second piece of baking parchment and place the second baking tin on top.  Bake in the oven for 15 minutes.   Then remove from the oven, turn the pastry over and sprinkle with the remaining sugar, evenly.  Cover with the parchment and the baking tin and bake for 10 minutes more.  Remove from the oven, the pastry should now be crisp and golden.  When it is cool enough to handle remove from the tin, and place it on a rack to cool completely..

Heat the milk with 2 tbsp of the sugar and the vanilla pod, to the boiling point.  Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks with the remaining sugar and the salt, until light and fluffy.  Sift over the flour and stir until completely combined.    Add a ladleful of hot milk, then add the remaining milk, in a thin stream, stirring constantly.  Pour the mixture into a clean saucepan, and simmer, stirring vigorously, until it comes to the boil.   Lower the temperature, and continue to stir for a few minutes more, until thick and smooth.    Take the pastry cream off the heat, remove the vanilla pod and stir in the liqueur.    Strain the cream into a bowl and cover the surface with cling film to prevent a skin from forming.  This will keep fresh in the fridge, for 2-3 days.

2-3 hours before serving, whip the cream until smooth and cut the pastry in three with a sharp knife.   Cover one piece of pastry, evenly, with half of the pastry cream.   Cut each of the remaining two pastry pieces into five equal portions.    Place five of the pastry pieces over the one covered with the pastry cream, and spread the remaining cream over.   Place the last pastry pieces on top.   This method, of cutting the pastry into portions, makes it easier to serve.

Sprinkle the mille feuilles lavishly with icing sugar and slivered almonds.    My bridge friends prefer it spread with vanilla and chocolate icing.








ORANGE GATEAU


This is a recipe for a delicious dessert that is a great favourite with my family.

250 g (½ lb)
400 g (2 cups) sugar
2 heaped tbsp thickly grated orange rind
5 medium sized eggs


390 g (3 cups) plain flour, sifted with
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
A generous pinch of salt

62.5 ml (¼ cup) fresh orange juice, mixed with
187.5 ml (¾ cup) yogurt
Vanilla

Syrup:
125 ml (½ cup) sugar
125 ml (½ cup) fresh orange juice
1-2 tbsp orange liqueur, optional

Orange icing:
Mix:
2 cups or more icing sugar
1 tsp finely grated orange rind
2 tbsp fresh orange juice
A tiny pinch of salt



Beat butter, sugar and salt until light and fluffy.   Stir in the grated orange rind and the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.

Add the flour and yogurt mixtures alternately to the batter, mixing thoroughly until well combined.

Place in a round tin, lined with baking parchment, and bake in an oven preheated to 180 C (350 F)  for 35 minutes or until a tester, inserted in the middle of the cake comes out clean.
After 10 minutes, invert the cake on a rack, with a tin underneath.

While the cake is baking, prepare the syrup.   Simmer the sugar with the fresh orange juice, stirring until the sugar dissolves.  Remove from the heat and stir in the orange liqueur, if using.   With a spoon dribble the syrup over the cake.

Also prepare the orange icing, and when the cake is completely cold, spread evenly.   Garnish the gateau with crystallized orange slices.




Monday 4 August 2014

COOKENJOY is two years old



When I gingerly started publishing my blog in August 2012, little could I imagine how much it would nurture my curiosity and interests, and how much pleasure it would give me, in my deep old age.

Just like last year, I still haven’t come into contact with any of my fellow cooking bloggers, most of whom I read, regularly, with great zeal and admiration.


These last two years, I have tried to publish recipes for the best dishes of the countries we lived in.   Also, many Greek recipes for both traditional and contemporary dishes that are delicious and healthy and can be ingeniously stretched into feeding large families.   Please tell me, dear Reader, how and where to improve my blog.  What recipes do you prefer?  What should I change?




Here is a recipe for a dessert to celebrate the occasion:




                                               
 HAZELNUT DESSERT WITH CHOCOLATE SAUCE



                                 

You could cover the cake with homemade hazelnut praline cream (please see below), instead of the chocolate sauce.

Cake
220 g (7+ 2 tbsp) lightly roasted hazelnuts, finely ground
150 g (¾ cup) caster sugar
5 eggs, separated
Vanilla
1 heaped tsp baking powder
1-1½ tbsp brandy
60 g (½ cup) icing sugar for the egg whites
Pinch of salt

Chocolate sauce
170 g (7 oz) dark chocolate chopped 
170 ml (7 oz)) cream
1-2 tsp honey

Garnish
2 tbsp coarsely chopped, roasted hazelnuts
A few chocolate curls, or
A few Maraschino cherries


Brush the sides and bottom of a cake tin with melted butter, then line the bottom of the tin with baking parchment, brushed with melted butter.  Sprinkle with sifted flour.

For the cake beat the caster sugar with the egg yolks until light and creamy.  Add the hazelnuts, brandy and baking powder and mix well together.  Whip the egg whites with the salt into soft peaks, add the icing sugar, by the spoonful, and keep whipping until stiff.  Gently fold the whipped egg whites into the cake batter and spoon into the prepared cake tin and smooth the surface.  

Bake in a moderately hot oven, pre-heated to 180 C (350F) for about 35-40 minutes or until a tester inserted in the middle of the cake comes out clean.  Remove the cake from the oven and after 5 minutes invert on a dish, to cool

For the sauce, place the chocolate into a bowl and heat the cream just under boiling point.   Pour the cream over the chocolate and stir until the sauce is cold and glossy. Add the honey and stir to combine well together

Cover the cake with the chocolate sauce, or with hazelnut praline cream, if preferred, and garnish with the chopped hazel nuts, chocolate curls or maraschino cherries

                HOMEMADE HAZELNUT PRALINE CREAM

100 g (an ample 3 oz) dark chocolate, chopped
125 g (an ample 4 oz) butter, cubed
60 g (2 oz) roasted hazelnuts, blended to a powder
1 pinch salt
198.5 g (½ tin) sweet condensed milk
Vanilla

Place everything in a metal bowl, over simmering water, and stir, au bain Marie, until the chocolate and butter melt and all the ingredients join into a smooth, shiny sauce.  Remove from the heat and let cool.

This quantity is enough to cover the above cake.    You could, also, prepare a triple portion praline cream, place in prepared jars and store in the fridge.