1953 PART V - Athens

After the earthquakes destroyed Cephalonia on the 12^th August, 1953, we stayed in Argostoli, for five days, under very difficult circumstances.   During the day the heat was unbearable.   Water and food was restricted to the minimum.   We sat and slept on the ground, but we could, at least, wash in the sea, with special bars of soap, kindly provided by the sailors of war ships that had arrived to help.   A solidarity prevailed, that I had never witnessed before.  We helped each other, paying more attention and care to the old, the weak and the very young.   Fortunately, my compatriots were very brave and resilient and there was a prevelent feeling of optimism for better days 

We left Cephalonia with my parents, my cousin Ioanna and her daughters, Dia and Malvina.   We arrived in Piraeus on the 18th August 1953 and from there to a hotel in Athens.

Athens, is surrounded by the mountain chains of Parnis, Hemettus, Penteli and the sea.   One needs less than half an hour to reach the sea from the mountains.  Is this possible in any other European capital?   In 1953, post war Athens was a beautiful city.   The avenues were lined with orange trees, and squares and parks were planted with palm trees, shrubs and multicoloured flowers.  Elegant mansions and beautiful early 20^th century houses adorned the city.    Unfortunately most of these gems were, later, demolished and replaced by blocks of flats.    

I don’t want to be misunderstood, I'm only reminiscing.    Athens is still beautiful and inviting, its infrastructure is similar to that of any other large, contemporary city.   The archaeological sites of the historic centre are, now, linked together into a fascinating 2 ¼ km walk. The new Acropolis Museum is one of the best in the world.    Also one can find excellent galleries, shops, boutiques, cafees, restaurants, bars and, despite the credit crunch, it has a very lively night life.   Athens never sleeps!  And let us never forget that Athens is the cradle of Western Civilization and Democracy.

 Back to 1953.  We spent a fortnight at Loutraki, a sea resort, 60 km west of Athens, which is well known for its springs and therapeutic spas.  I had a wonderful time, there, with my cousins and friends, swimming during the day and dancing at night.     

We returned to Athens and rented a flat, near Syntagma Square.   We met with old and new friends and enjoyed our remaining home leave   We often went to the theater and attended concerts at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus.  I had never listened to music in an ancient theatre before.   The acoustics were fantastic, one couldn’t miss the faintest note and the atmosphere had a magic quality   

As for the theatre, we had the most talented actors, like Marika Kotopouli, Aimilios Veakis, Katina Paxinou, Alekos Minotis, public idols like Ellie Lambeti, Demetris Horn and younger prodigies like Alekos Alexandrakis, Anna Synodinou, Antigoni Valakou.  I saw Albert Husson’s “ The Three Angels” with Ellie Lambetis,- Demitris Horn and Demtris Pappas, four times!

We had the most fabulous meals at Psaropoulos in Glifada, Xinos in Plaka, Philippou, Ideal and Costis in the centre of Athens, and in snug little restaurants all over Attika.   I shall always remember how much we enjoyed the milles feuilles at Zaharatos, loukoumades (fried puffs) at Bocolas, the delicious orange gateau and Chicago ice cream at “Ellinikon”, the excellent coffee at “Likovryssi”.

One of my father’s young colleagues, Alecos Cocalis, invited us to his home in Kifissia, where we met his parents and his brothers Pericles with his wife Dolly, and Nicos with his wife Cleo.    Little did I know then, that in less than a year, I would be a part of this family. 




Here are a few recipes for the dishes and sweets we enjoyed in Athens in 1953.

                                              
                                              ATHENIAN BOILED FISH

                                            

 You can make a lovely soup from the fish stock.

2-2½ kg (4-5 lb) sea bream, grouper, blackfish, or fresh cod, scaled, cleaned

                                             and washed, sprinkled with salt and lemon juice

                                                                                               

                                                                                 

Court-bouillon

1 onion

2 celery stalks

1 leek

2 carrots

1 bay leaf

1 lemon slice

3 sprigs parsley
30 g (1 oz) slice fresh ginger, peeled

1½ litres (6 cups) water

Salt

½ litre (2 cups) white wine

½ tsp peppercorns

Garnish

Boiled carrots, boiled baby potatoes, boiled small courgettes, cherry tomatoes, tender lettuce leaves

Chopped parsley

Olive oil and lemon dressing

Homemade mayonnaise

Simmer the vegetables, herbs  in salted water for 15 minutes.   Pour in the wine and the peppercorns, and simmer for 15 minutes more.

Strain the court-bouillon into a large fish kettle and poach the fish for 20-30 minutes or more , if necessary,  Remove the fish and let it drain.  Skin it, while still hot, cut it in half, discarding the backbone and the head and carefully remove all the fish bones. 

 

Reassemble the fish on an oval dish, sprinkle with 2 tbsp of olive oil and lemon dressing and cover with a mild, homemade mayonnaise.  Surround the fish with carrots, baby potatoes, small courgettes, cherry tomatoes and tender lettuce leaves, using your imagination to prepare a really attractive result.   Sprinkle the vegetables with olive oil and lemon dressing and spinkle with chopped parsley..   Serve with a green salad and extra mayonnaise.

(Serves 6)

 OKRA, TOMATOES AND ONIONS COOKED IN OLIVE OIL

Μπάμιες Λαδερές

Even if you hate okra, try this recipe, you might change your mind.

1 kg baby okra, stems removed, the conical part thinly trimmed

120 ml vinegar

Salt

120 ml (½ cup) olive oil

2 large onions, chopped

4 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cubed

1 tsp or more sugar

2-3 tbsp chopped parsley

Salt and pepper to taste

Place the okra in a dish, sprinkle with salt and vinegar and set aside for at least 30 minutes, in the sun if possible. Then rinse thoroughly, dry and sauté it in 2-3 tbsp olive oil.  Remove and set aside.  

In the same saucepan cook the onion with a little water for about 5 minutes until the water evaporates.  Stir in the remaining olive oil, add the tomato, sugar, salt and pepper and cook for 10 minutes more. 

Then arrange the okra neatly in the tomato sauce, cover with a piece of baking parchment and the lid, and simmer gently for about 20 minutes, until the okra is tender.   Shake the saucepan occasionally during the cooking period, and add a little hot water to prevent sticking.  Taste for seasoning and correct if necessary.   Serve with fried potatoes or as a garnish to roast chicken.

                                                         

                                                          FRIED PUFFS

                                                           Λουκουμάδες

                             

There are certain sweet shops in Greece that exclusively sell “loukoumades”.

250 g (½ lb) all-purpose flour

(1 packet) instant dried yeast

1 tsp sugar

½ tsp salt

1/8 tsp grated nutmeg

250 ml (1 cup) lukewarm water

Oil for deep frying

Honey

Cinnamon

Chopped walnuts (optional)

Combine all the dry ingredients together in a bowl, add the water gradually and mix thoroughly to make a smooth batter, soft enough to fall from a spoon.

Cover the bowl with a towel and let the batter prove until almost doubled in bulk and bubbly on the surface.

Heat about 10 cm (4 in) oil, in a deep saucepan and with the help of 2 teaspoons, drop spoonfuls of batter and fry until puffed, crisp and golden. (Dip spoons in cold water each time before dipping in batter to prevent it from sticking to the spoons).

Remove the puffs and drain them on kitchen paper.

Serve them warm and crisp, sprinkled with honey and cinnamon, and chopped walnuts, if using.

(Serves 4-6)

VANILLA ICE CREAM WITH HOT CHOCOLATE SAUCE
 Παγωτό Σικάγο

This is a very easy ice cream, very popular with both children and grownups.

A vanilla pod

500 g (2 cups) full milk

200 g (1 cup) sugar

A good pinch of salt

500 g (2 cups) thick cream

Chocolate Sauce

120 g (4 oz) dark chocolate, melted and mixed with

4-5 tbsp sweet condensed milk

 Split the vanilla pod and scrape the seeds into the milk.  Heat the milk, sugar and salt, stirring until the sugar melts, and cool.   Stir in the cream, pour into a covered container and place in the freezer.   After 1½ hours beat the cream, cover and return it quickly to the freezer.  Repeat the procedure twice more.

Serve the ice cream in bowls and pour 1-2 tbsp hot chocolate sauce on top. 

MILLE FEUILLES

  

This superb dessert can be made with a plain, a chocolate or a fruit pastry cream.

One 400 g (10 1/3 oz) sheet ready made puff pastry

2 teaspoons caster sugar

2 baking tins

2 pieces baking parchment, larger than the pastry sheet

Pastry Cream:

500 ml (2 cups) full milk

½ a vanilla pod, split in half, lengthwise

125 g (an ample 4 oz) caster sugar

5 large or 6 medium sized egg yolks

45 g (½ oz) plain flour

A large pinch of salt

1 liqueur glass Grand Marnier or any other liquor of your choice

Garnish:

Icing sugar and slivered almonds or

White icing

First bake the puff pastry.    Preheat the oven to 180 C (375 F).   Line one of the baking tins with a piece of baking parchment and place the puff pastry over.  Sprinkle evenly with 1 tsp sugar, cover with the second piece of baking parchment and place the second baking tin on top.  Bake in the oven for 15 minutes.   Then remove from the oven, turn the pastry over and sprinkle with the remaining sugar, evenly.  Cover with the parchment and the baking tin and bake for 10 minutes more.  Remove from the oven, the pastry should now be crisp and golden.  When it is cool enough to handle remove from the tin, and place it on a rack to cool completely..

Heat the milk with 2 tbsp of the sugar and the vanilla pod, to the boiling point.  Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks with the remaining sugar and the salt, until light and fluffy.  Sift over the flour and stir until completely combined.    Add a ladleful of hot milk, then add the remaining milk, in a thin stream, stirring constantly.  Pour the mixture into a clean saucepan, and simmer, stirring vigorously, until it comes to the boil.   Lower the temperature, and continue to stir for a few minutes more, until thick and smooth.    Take the pastry cream off the heat, remove the vanilla pod and stir in the liqueur.    Strain the cream into a bowl and cover the surface with cling film to prevent a skin from forming.  This will keep fresh in the fridge, for 2-3 days.

2-3 hours before serving, whip the cream until smooth and cut the pastry in three with a sharp knife.   Cover one piece of pastry, evenly, with half of the pastry cream.   Cut each of the remaining two pastry pieces into five equal portions.    Place five of the pastry pieces over the one covered with the pastry cream, and spread the remaining cream over.   Place the last pastry pieces on top.   This method, of cutting the pastry into portions, makes it easier to serve.

Sprinkle the mille feuilles lavishly with icing sugar and slivered almonds.    My bridge friends prefer it spread with vanilla and chocolate icing.

ORANGE GATEAU

This is a recipe for a delicious dessert that is a great favourite with my family.

250 g (½ lb)

400 g (2 cups) sugar

2 heaped tbsp thickly grated orange rind

5 medium sized eggs

390 g (3 cups) plain flour, sifted with

1 tsp baking powder

½ tsp baking soda

A generous pinch of salt

62.5 ml (¼ cup) fresh orange juice, mixed with

187.5 ml (¾ cup) yogurt

Vanilla

Syrup:

125 ml (½ cup) sugar

125 ml (½ cup) fresh orange juice

1-2 tbsp orange liqueur, optional

Orange icing:

Mix:

2 cups or more icing sugar

1 tsp finely grated orange rind

2 tbsp fresh orange juice

A tiny pinch of salt

Beat butter, sugar and salt until light and fluffy.   Stir in the grated orange rind and the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.

Add the flour and yogurt mixtures alternately to the batter, mixing thoroughly until well combined.

Place in a round tin, lined with baking parchment, and bake in an oven preheated to 180 C (350 F)  for 35 minutes or until a tester, inserted in the middle of the cake comes out clean.

After 10 minutes, invert the cake on a rack, with a tin underneath.

While the cake is baking, prepare the syrup.   Simmer the sugar with the fresh orange juice, stirring until the sugar dissolves.  Remove from the heat and stir in the orange liqueur, if using.   With a spoon dribble the syrup over the cake.

Also prepare the orange icing, and when the cake is completely cold, spread evenly.   Garnish the gateau with crystallized orange slices.