HOME LEAVE 1956 - PART II (continued)

A Late 19th Century Poster of  the Riviera dei Fiori 

We left the Cote d’Azure and our little boutique hotel in Menton and, with our Siecento, crossed the Franco-Italian border, near Ventimiglia, and drove towards the Italian (Ligurian) Riviera.  This is a ruggedly beautiful landscape, a narrow slice of land, its coves and beaches lapped by the turquoise waves of the Mediterranean in the South and boarded by the soaring heights of the Alps in the North.  

This is a fascinating part of the world, with seaside resorts and charming small villages  that, since the 19^th century, has lured famous writers and artists, international celebrities and royalty.  It still continues to attract many tourists, throughout the year, due to the beauty of the landscape and its mild winters.     It has architectural contrasts such as magnificent palaces and enchanting “ terratettos” (tall narrow houses – achievements of building dexterity) , “provincial chic” as they say, the elegant and rural matched to perfection.

Elegant Porto Fino

Map of Cinque Terre

The refined beauty of San Remo and Portofino and the rustic charm of Cinque Terre that is comprised of five medieval villages, Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia,  Manarola, and Riomagiorre.    Incidentally, these villages and the surrounding hillside are part of the Cinque Terre National Park that, since 1997, has been proclaimed  a UNESCO World Heritage Site.    

A Medieval Map of Genoa

 And last but not least is the historical City of Genoa, an important port adorned with beautiful buildings with the Riviera dele Palme to the East and the Riviera dei Fiori to the West.   We visited some of these wonderful churches and palaces in 1956.  

San Lorenzo Cathedral Genoa

Saint George's Palace with Hand Painted Facade

The Royal Palace

The Hall of Mirrors in the Palazzo Reale

Please find below a few recipes of the fantastic Ligurian Cuisine:


                                             PESTO GENOVESE

Pesto Genovese Prepared Traditionally

It is very easy to prepare this fabulous sauce.

60 g (2 oz) pine nuts slightly roasted
90 g (3 oz) fresh basil leaves, washed and dried
125 ml (1/2 cup) olive oil
60 g (2 oz) Parmesan, grated
1/2 a garlic clove or more according to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Very little lemon juice, optional

Traditionally, pesto was prepared with a pestle and mortar.   Now one can place all the ingredients, except the salt, into a blender or food processor and whizz  until smooth.  Taste, and season with salt, according to taste.  Try adding a tiny sprinkle of lemon juice to accentuate the taste.




                                                         FOCACCIA

Rosemary Focaccia

This is a tasty local flat bread that can be seasoned with dried herbs of your choice.


360 g (12 oz) plain flour
1 tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp dry yeast
1 tsp  dried thyme
1 tsp dried basil
1 tsp dried tarragon leaves or oregano
Freshly ground pepper to taste

1 cup lukewarm water mixed with
2 tbsp sunflower oil

2 tbsp olive oil

1 cup mozzarella, grated
1 cup Parmesan, grated


Place the eight first ingredients together in a large bowl.   Add the water/sunflower oil mixture and mix well, until a dough comes together. and place it on a slightly floured surface and knead it until it becomes smooth and elastic.

Shape the dough into a rough ball, place it in a large clean bowl, brush it lavishly with olive oil, cover with a damp cloth and let it rise for about 20 minutes.   Heat the oven to 230 C (450 F).  When the dough has doubled it bulk, punch it down, place it on a baking sheet, lined with baking parchment, and shape it into a 1 1/4 cm (half an inch) thick rectangle.  Brush with olive oil and sprinkle with Parmesan and mozzarella cheese.  Bake for 15-17 minutes or until crisp and golden brown.  Serve warm.


                                                          FARINATA

Crisp Outside Soft Insde  

Try preparing this lovely first dish.

2  cups garbanzo (chick-pea flour)
750 ml (3 cups) lukewarm water
1  tsp salt
1  tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary
6 tbsp olive oil, divided
Freshly ground black pepper

Combine flour and water and mix until smooth, cover with cling film and let rest at room temperature for 2 hours.   Skim  as much foam as possible from the top of the batter.   Stir the salt,  chopped rosemary and 3 tbsp of olive oil into the chick-pea batter.

Heat oven to 250 C (500 F).   Place a 25 cm (10 inches) skillet over high heat until very hot.  Pour the remaining 2 tbsp of olive oil into the skillet to cover the base.  When the oil starts smoking quickly but carefully pour the batter into the sizzling frying pan. Transfer the skillet to the preheated oven and bake for 20-25 minutes until the cake is crisp and brown.  Transfer the farinata to a prettyAnchuguie dish and serve hot, sprinkled with freshly ground black pepper.



                                           ACCIUGIE DI MONTEROSSO

Ready to Enjoy

This is a superb recipe for a typical dish of la Cucina Povera which we cook and enjoy all over the Mediterranean.

1 kg (2 lb) fresh anchovies, filleted
4 large potatoes, peeled and very thinly sliced with a mandolin perhaps

2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeds removed and finely chopped and mixed with
1 ample cup chopped parsley
1 garlic clove or more, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp hot red pepper flakes
a little sugar to counteract the acidity of the tomatoes, optional

125 ml (1/2 cup) olive oil
500 ml (2 cups) of good dry white wine, please see the instructions below

Heat the oven to 180 C (350 F)
Line half the potatoes in an oven-proof dish, sprinkle with very little salt and cover with half the anchovy fillets mask with half the tomato mixture.  Repeat the procedure once more and drizzle, evenly, with olive oil and half the dry white wine.   Cover the dish first with baking parchment and then with foil. and bake for 35 minutes.  Check to see if the potatoes are cooked, adding a little more wine if necessary.  Then cook a few minutes more.  Serve hot or lukewarm with crusty brown bread and the same wine that you used for cooking

                                            BACCI DE LA RIVIERA

Delicious Bacci 

These are popular sweets of the region.

300 g (10 oz) toasted, skinned and finely ground

180 g (6 oz) sugar

30 g (1 oz) cocoa

The whites of 3 medium eggs whipped to soft peaks with

A pinch of salt and still whipping add

2 tbsp sugar until the meringue is stiff and glossy

30 g (1 oz) honey

Sauce:

150 g (5 oz) bitter sweet chocolate cut into small pieces

125 ml (½ cup) cream 

Heat the oven to 160 C (320 F).

In a large bowl mix the first 3 ingredients well together and fold in half the whipped egg whites by the spoonful.  Then stir in the honey and gently fold in the remaining whipped egg whites.

Place the batter into a piping bag with star nozzle and make equal small mounds of batter on a baking tin, lined with baking parchment, 2.3 cm (1 inch) apart, and bake for 12-15 minutes or until the hazelnut meringues harden.   Remove from the oven and allow them  to cool in the tin.

Meanwhile prepare the ganache, heat the cream and, just before it reaches the boiling point, pour over the chopped chocolate.   After a minute, stir well until the sauce is smooth and shiny and set aside to cool.

Spread the base of a meringue with ganache and sandwich with another meringue.   Place the bacci on a pretty serving dish and enjoy.