Thursday 4 April 2019

COOKING WITH FRUIT







In Greece, we are blessed with a plethora of aromatic, juicy fruit.  Various types of grapes, citrus fruits, pears, peaches, apricots, figs, pomegranates and apples ripen in Greece’s vineyards and orchards.   We relish eating them, we export some of them and we cook both sweet and savoury dishes with them.


Here are several recipes for savoury dishes cooked with fruit:





                                                    WATERMELON SOUP






“Veggera” in Patmos, was the first to offer iced watermelon soup, this is another version.

One 390 g (13 oz) tin tomato juice
1 medium-sized onion, peeled and chopped
1 garlic clove. peeled
1 bouquet garni (1 bay leaf + a sprig of thyme + a sprig of parsley)
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
¼ tsp or less Cayenne pepper
1 tsp honey or sugar
1 kg (2 lbs) watermelon, peeled, de-seeded and cubed
1 shot tsipouro or brandy or vodka, optional
Mint leaves or sprigs for garnish  


Simmer the first six ingredients for 20 minutes, discard the bouquet garni, cool and sieve.  

Meanwhile, blend the watermelon and combine with the tomato juice mixture. Sieve once more and add the honey or sugar and stir well together.  Taste for seasoning and add more salt, pepper. sugar or honey, if necessary, and place in the refrigerator.  

Add the liquor, if using and serve iced, in tall glasses, garnished with mint.
 




                              
                                 CHICKEN WITH FRESH FIGS AND BACON





This is a lovely, easy dish for special occasions.

6 chicken breasts, skinned, boned and cubed
2-3 tbsp flour mixed with 1 tsp salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tbsp olive oil
8-10 rashers lean bacon
1 large onion chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tbsp mustard with honey
350 ml (½ a bottle) Santorini Sigalas or any other good dry white wine
375 ml – 500 ml (1½-2 cups) tasty chicken stock
2-3 sprigs of fresh tarragon or
1-2 sprigs of fresh sage
12 fresh figs, peeled and halved
Salt and pepper
125 ml (½ cup) thick cream or more

            
Dredge the chicken pieces in seasoned flour, and set aside.   In a large, shallow saucepan sauté the bacon in 2 tbsp olive oil, remove and reserve.

Shake off the excess flour from the chicken pieces and fry them in the same saucepan, in two batches, until slightly brown and transfer to a dish with a slotted spoon.  Lower the heat, add the remaining olive oil, onion and garlic and simmer until the onion changes colour.  Stir in the mustard, return the chicken pieces to the saucepan, pour in the wine, and with a spatula scrape the bottom of the saucepan.  When the wine reduces a little, add the chicken stock and the herb of your choice (tarragon or sage).   Cover and simmer gently until the chicken is almost ready 12-15 minutes.

Meanwhile, season the figs with salt and pepper and cook them separately with a little wine, chicken stock and a small knob of butter, until soft but not falling apart.  Discard the herbs from the chicken, spoon the figs over and cook for a few minutes more. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if necessary.  At this stage, you can cover and refrigerate it until the next day. Don’t forget the bacon.

Just before serving, heat the food thoroughly, and pour the cream over, taste once more and adjust the seasoning, if necessary.   Also, heat the bacon until crisp.   Serve the chicken and figs on a hot platter, garnished with bacon and accompanied with “smashed potatoes with cream”!



                                   SMASHED POTATOES WITH CREAM







1 kg (2 lbs) or more mealy potatoes, peeled and sliced
Enough water to just cover
1 whole garlic clove
1 sprig of sage
Salt
2 tbsp olive oil
250 ml (1 cup) or more, cream
1 tbsp snipped chives

Boil the potatoes with all the ingredients except the cream and chives.  Discard the garlic and sage and strain thoroughly.  Return the potatoes to the saucepan and heat in order to remove any possible remaining moisture.

Before serving, heat, pour in the cream, stir and check the seasoning.  Serve sprinkled with chives and freshly ground black pepper.




           
                               CHICKEN DRUMSTICKS WITH GRAPES






This fabulous, gourmet dish is always enjoyed.

12 chicken drumsticks

Marinade:
125 ml (½ cup) soy sauce
125 ml (½ cup) water
2½ cm (1 inch) square piece of peeled ginger, sliced
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
6 rosemary or tarragon sprigs, cut in half

Olive oil

1 kg (2 lbs) sultanina grapes, stems removed, or any other variety of white seedless grapes
 A knob of butter
Salt and pepper to taste

1-2 tbsp petimezi (syrup of grape must), optional


Marinate the chicken for 3 hours at room temperature, turning them around once or twice.   Then place them on a rack standing over a baking tin and brush with olive oil.   Pour a cup of water in the tin and roast the drumsticks in an oven preheated to 190 C (375 F) for 35-40 minutes.  Pour the rest of the olive oil in the marinade and baste every 15 minutes.  After 20 minutes turn the chicken over and cook, for the remaining time or until the skin is crisp and brown.

 Meanwhile, reserve a cupful of fresh grapes and sauté the remaining in butter.  Season with a little of the marinade, add a sprig of the same herb used for the drumsticks, taste for seasoning and add some salt and pepper if necessary.   Stir in the petimezi (optional) but do not cook more than 6-7 minutes.

When the drumsticks are ready, arrange them attractively on a dish.  Mix the raw grapes with the cooked ones and spoon them next to the chicken.

       

     

                 A DELICIOUS PORK RAGOUT WITH ORANGES AND OLIVES






 Pork, in some form, is a must for Christmas in Greece.    This dish is from Sparta but hardly Spartan!  Joy’s daughter-in-law, Yianna, gave us this recipe many years ago.

1 kg (2 lb) pork (preferably from the shoulder) cut in 2 cm (1 in) cubes
80 ml (1/3 cup) olive oil
125 ml (½ cup) dry white wine
4 oranges, peeled and cut into eighths
Peel of 1 orange, cut in very thin strips and blanched
125 ml (1/2 cup) or more orange juice
1 cup small black olives, blanched and stoned
Pinch of oregano or thyme
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste


Sprinkle the pork with salt and pepper and sauté in the olive oil until it turns white.  Pour in the wine and simmer until almost done, then add the orange juice and cook for another 10 minutes.   Add the olives and lay the pieces of orange and the orange peel on top.   Baste the oranges with the meat juices and add some salt.   Simmer gently for 15 minutes more and then taste again and season with salt, pepper and oregano or thyme.   Do not stir after you have added the orange pieces and olives.

Serve the pork, olives and orange pieces in separate piles on a serving dish, accompanied with rice or noodles.



  

                           PORK FILLET WITH SPICED APPLE OR PEACH SAUCE






This dish can be prepared either with apples or peaches.  It is excellent with both.

6 pork fillets, 1.5 kg (3 lb) sliced
2 tbsp olive oil
2 scant tsp clarified butter
1 rosemary sprig
A little salt and freshly ground pepper

1 large onion, peeled and chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 liqueur glass of Metaxa brandy
About 1 litre (4 cups)  tasty chicken stock or more
7 apples or peaches, peeled, cored or stoned and sliced
1 tsp "four spices" (please see below)
1 – 1½ tbsp honey or more
A little lemon juice, if necessary

Four spices mix:
1 tsp ground pepper
½ tsp powdered cinnamon
½ tsp powdered cloves
½ tsp grated nutmeg
(Mix well together)
I add ½ tsp powdered ginger

125 ml (½ cup) light cream


Heat olive oil and clarified butter with the rosemary sprig, and sauté the meat in batches.  Discard the rosemary and sprinkle the meat sparingly with salt and pepper.

Also discard all but 1 tbsp olive oil – clarified butter and sauté the onion, with a little salt, until limp and translucent.   Place the meat over and sprinkle with garlic, cook for 2 minutes, then drizzle with the brandy and simmer a few minutes more. 

Arrange the fruit on top and pour the chicken stock to cover.   Sprinkle evenly with the spice mix and drizzle with honey.    Simmer gently for 15-20 minutes until the meat is thoroughly cooked and tender.  Do not overcook.

Remove the meat and mash the fruit and onions with a hand blender until smooth. Taste the sauce and season with more salt, spice mix and honey, if necessary.  Add a little lemon juice if using.  Add the meat to the sauce and cook for 2 minutes more. 

 Just before serving, add the cream and heat but do not boil, and offer with steamed rice or mashed potatoes and garnish with a few fruits slices.   

      

                 
   
                      PORK FILLET WITH PRUNES AND TANGERINE JUICE




                            

This is a recipe from Northern Greece.

4 pork fillets
24 prunes, stoned
Salt and pepper
Plain flour
1 tbsp clarified butter
1 tbsp olive oil
62.5 ml (¼ cup) Metaxa brandy
250 ml (1 cup) tangerine juice
2 sprigs of fresh thyme
125 ml (½ cup) Mavrodaphne (or any other sweet, red wine)
125 ml (½ cup) cream


 Slit the fillet open lengthwise, season with salt and pepper and stuff with the prunes.   Close the fillets, securely, with toothpicks, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and roll in flour.
  
 Heat oil and butter in a saucepan and sauté the fillets on all sides.   Douse with brandy, cook for a few minutes pour in the tangerine juice and add the fresh thyme.   Simmer for about 20 minutes, add the wine and cook for 10 minutes more. 

Remove the fillets, add the cream and simmer gently until sauce thickens.  Discard the thyme and taste, and season with salt and pepper, if necessary.   Slice the meat and heat thoroughly in the sauce.    Serve with rice or with creamy smashed potatoes, and sautéed vegetables of your choice.




         
                                         POMEGRANATE VINAIGRETTE


Try this dressing with salad greens, such as young spinach, cos lettuce, endive, sliced fennel bulbs and sprinkle with sweet, juicy pomegranate seeds. But it is also delicious with white or red cabbage salads or potato, sprig onion and rocket salad with pomegranate seeds sprinkled over.


2 tbsp wine vinegar or
1 tbsp vinegar and 1 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp honey scented mustard
1 tbsp pomegranate juice
1 tbsp pomegranate syrup* please see recipe below
½ tsp salt
Freshly ground black pepper
6 tbsp olive oil

Combine all the ingredients and whisk together until the dressing thickens.
Taste for seasoning and adjust, if necessary.





                                             *POMEGRANATE SYRUP
       





Pomegranates make a lovely, translucent and ruby-coloured syrup.  As for the taste, it’s fruity, fresh and mellow.  Serve it with ice-cream or Greek yogurt, drizzle it over crepes or pancakes and use it in salad dressings instead of sugar or honey. You could also use it as a glaze for meat and poultry dishes.


500 ml (2 cups) pomegranate juice, strained
400 g (2 cups) caster sugar
2 tbsp lemon juice

Bring the juice and sugar to the boil.  Stir until the sugar melts and skim when necessary. 

Lower the heat and simmer until thick. Add the lemon juice and simmer for 10 minutes more.   Cool the syrup, pour into sterilised bottles and store in the fridge.


                                         


                                                PEACH CHUTNEY






No curry is perfect without one or two chutneys and a relish.  Also, chutney with cheese is quite delicious.  You could prepare this chutney with tinned peaches.

1 kg (2 lb) peaches, peeled, stones removed
1 tsp salt

6 cloves of garlic, peeled
40 g (1 1/3 oz) peeled ginger root, grated
375 ml (1 ½ cup) vinegar
600 g (3 cups) sugar, more, if the peaches are not completely ripe
1/8 - ½ tsp Cayenne pepper
More salt if necessary

First slice the peaches, sprinkle with 1 tsp salt and set aside.

Blend the garlic, ginger, and half the vinegar until smooth.

Simmer the remaining vinegar with the sugar, until the sugar melts.   Stir in the garlic/ginger mixture and cook, over low heat, for 20 minutes.

Stir in the peaches, bring to the boil, and simmer very, very gently, until the chutney thickens, stirring occasionally. This takes about an hour or more 

Add the Cayenne, a little at a time, stirring and adding, according to taste. Add a little more salt if necessary and cook for 2-3 minutes longer.

Remove the saucepan from the heat, allow the chutney to cool and spoon it into sterilised jars.  Cover with rounds of baking parchment, seal tightly and store in a dark cupboard.   Needless to say that if one opens a jar it must be refrigerated. 





Pomegranates by Robert Papp


Figs by Robert Papp







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