KAMPALA UGANDA, EAST AFRICA

Uganda East Africa

In my post "Mombasa Kenya, East Africa" I had written:

"After we had settled down beautifully in Mombasa, started a family and made many new friends, we were suddenly informed that we were going to be transferred to Kampala, Uganda."

So, in early January 1958, we packed our belongings and with our five-month-old son Spyros Steven, our cook, Odiambo, his wife and baby daughter Jumma, we left, by train, for Kampala.   Passing through the incredible East African countryside, with stops at Nairobi, Nakuru, Eldoret, and Jinja we finally arrived at our destination.

Jack Alexandroff and his charming wife Jane Ralli were there to meet us.  We went to their beautiful home, where we stayed over for the night.  The next day Aleco and Jack went on tour, while Jane, Spiros Steven and I had the house all to ourselves.   Jane and I got on very well together as we had very much in common.   We were both of Greek parentage, with a British background and she was expecting a baby in six months.

When the men came back from their tour, Aleco, Spiros Steven and I, with Odiambo and his family settled down in one of the new Ralli Bros. flats, on Naguru Hill.  It was a four-apartment building, in a large, blooming garden.

We had friendly neighbours, a very pleasant couple with two children, who lived in the flat above ours, and two bachelors in the other two apartments.

Kasubi Tombs

Buganda Parliament

The Buganda  Court of Justice

A small summary of the history of Kampala.   The city was the capital of the Buganda  Kingdom, from which period, several buildings still survive, including the Kasubi Tombs (built in 1881), the Lubiri Palace, the Buganda Parliament and the Buganda Court of Justice.

In 1894, the British established Uganda as a Protectorate and in 1905, it was declared as a British Colony.   The country was liberated in 1962.   In 1978, the absurdly ridiculous dictator Idi Amin Dada expelled all Asian and Jewish residents and declared war against Tanzania, which invaded Uganda, causing severe damages to many of Kampala’s buildings.  The city has been rebuilt with new luxury hotels, educational institutions, hospitals, banks and trendy shopping malls.

The Kampala and Suburbs Seen from Muyeba Hill Top

Naguru  Hill

Kampala is a beautiful city and it is called the city of the seven hills.  As it is built on the equator, it has a climate without seasons, and due to the elevation, it has a mild temperature during the day, although one needs a blanket at night.

Uganda is a landlocked country, however, Kampala is built close to lake Victoria, the second largest lake in the world.   Also, the river Nile has its sources near this lake, therefore it is a town with lush vegetation and beautiful parks and gardens.    

Kampala and Entebbe are the two largest cities of Uganda and lie only 37 km apart.   Entebbe, after which the international airport is named, is built on Lake Victoria, while Kampala is 10 km inland,  so, the residents of both towns enjoy the lake, swimming, fishing and water skiing.

Unlike Mombasa, Kampala had a very large Greek community, so we were often invited to their hospitable homes.   A dear old friend from Pakistan, Philip Samoylis with his lovely wife were transferred from Alexandria, Egypt to Kampala, due to the recent Suez Canal crisis.  We were very pleased to see them, but we, also, made many new friends of various nationalities.  

I often invited our new friends with their babies to play with Spiros Steven.   It was lovely seeing him grow up to be such an adorable, cheerful toddler, all smiles and dimples.   

We also went swimming in Lake Victoria.  It was enormous and the waters were clear, but I never quite got over the peculiar feeling of stepping on soft silt, that oozed right through one's toes, compared with the firm sand of the sea.  

We went to the pictures (cinema) and watched films like the “King and I”, directed by Walter Lang, with Deborah Kerr and Yul Brunner and “The Bridge on the River Kwai” directed by David Lean with William Holden and Alec Guinness.  Both films were great hits and had excellent critiques.

When Spiros Steven was six months old, to our great delight, I was pregnant again!  We continued our life in Kampala for four months more, when we were, suddenly, informed that we were being transferred by the company to Arusha, Tanganyika, as Tanzania was called then.

Aleco was furious, and after profound and very serious thought and contemplation, we decided that enough was enough, so Aleco bravely resigned from  Ralli Bros and we left for Greece.  

A Beautiful Public Garden in Kampala

A Lovely Garden at a Kampala Private Home

I always loved cooking, but during our stay in East Africa, I  started trying my own more intricate recipes for savoury dishes and desserts, that usually turned out quite delicious.   I was rather proud of the progress in my culinary efforts.

Here are a few recipes for dishes and desserts that I prepared during that period.

                                   SWEET POTATO AND CARROT SOUP

This is a delightful soup.

500 g (1 lb) sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

210 g (7 oz) carrots, peeled and cut into chunks

2 tbsp olive oil, separated

1 onion, peeled and finely chopped

2 leeks, trimmed, split lengthwise, thoroughly washed and finely chopped

1 sprig sage

2 sprigs thyme

1 litre (4 cups) tasty hot vegetable or chicken stock

250 ml (1 cup) cream, separated

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat the oven to 180 C (350 F) and place the sweet potatoes and carrots into a tin lined with baking parchment.   Drizzle the vegetables with 1 tbsp olive oil, season with a little salt and freshly ground black pepper and roast for 26-30 minutes, until tender.

Meanwhile, sauté the chopped onion and leeks in the remaining olive oil with the sage and thyme until soft.  Add the hot stock and simmer for 15 minutes more and discard the herbs.   When the roasted vegetables are ready, cool a little and transfer to the saucepan and, with a hand blender, blend until smooth and velvety.  Stir in half the cream, taste for seasoning and add a little salt, if necessary.

Serve in soup bowls with a swirl of cream and freshly ground pepper.

                               MUSSELS STUFFED WITH SPICED RICE

                                               

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This can be either an appetizer or a full meal.

1 kg (2 lbs) large mussels, well scrubbed, beards discarded

120 ml (1/2 cup) olive oil

75 g (1/2 cup) shelled, unsalted pistachio nuts

1-2 clove garlic, finely chopped

3-4 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced

1 large onion, peeled  and finely grated

480 g (2 cups) long grain rice

8-10 saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp water

1 small slice of peeled, fresh ginger

Salt and pepper to taste

1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper

720 ml (3 cups) boiling water, or vegetable stock

35 g (1/4 cup) currants
30 g  (1 oz) toasted pine nuts

1-2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped

125 ml (1/2 cup) hot white wine, mixed with

125 ml (1/2 cup) boiling water

Lemon wedges

Saute the pistachios with ½ the olive oil for about 2 minutes.  Add the garlic and onions and cook until soft.  Then stir in the rice, ginger, salt, pepper and Cayenne pepper and cook for two minutes more.  Pour in the water or stock, the saffron water and stir and simmer, until the rice is barely “al dente” and discard the ginger.  Stir in the currants, pine nuts and parsley and set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, open the mussels with a sharp knife, making sure that the flesh remains attached to both halves of the shell.     Stuff each mussel with the rice mixture and tie with string.  

Arrange the mussels snugly in a saucepan, and place the remaining stuffing around.  Pour the water and wine solution over and sprinkle with the remaining olive oil.   Cover the saucepan, and simmer gently until all the water has been absorbed, adding a little more hot water, if necessary.     Let the mussels cool and discard the strings.    Serve the mussels on a bed of stuffing, garnished with lemon wedges.

                   SPAGHETTI WITH BROCCOLI AND SMOKED SALMON

If you have a few leftover boiled vegetables, like broccoli or courgettes or peas,

and a few slices of smoked salmon you can serve a delicious gourmet dish, that will be greatly appreciated.

500 g spaghetti boiled in a tasty vegetable stock, strained  also, reserve the  vegetable stock

A little olive oil to sprinkle over the spaghetti

150 g (5 oz) boiled broccoli florets or other vegetables, sautéed in little butter

White sauce:

2 tbsp butter

3 tbsp cornflour

1 bay leaf

750 ml (3 cups) hot stock, in which the spaghetti were boiled

250 ml (1 cup) cream, low fat if preferred

Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp grated San Mihalis or Parmesan, optional

6 slices of smoked salmon, cut into small pieces

2 tbsp dill, thickly chopped

1 tsp red pepper, coarsely ground

Sprinkle the spaghetti with olive oil, swirl and cover the saucepan and keep the spaghetti hot.

Meanwhile, prepare the sauce.   Melt butter over low heat, add the bay leaf and sift the cornflour over.   Stir and cook for 4-5 minutes, and progressively pour in the hot stock, stirring very well after each addition, until the sauce thickens and bubbles. Discard the bay leaf, pour in the cream and grated cheese, if using, and mix until very well combined.  Taste the sauce and add a little salt, if necessary, and freshly ground black pepper.

Just before serving, add the hot sautéed broccoli to the spaghetti and mask with the sauce.  Finally, place the smoked salmon pieces evenly over, and sprinkle with chopped dill.   Serve on a hot dish and sprinkle with coarsely ground red pepper.

                                         

                               SHRIMPS IN A SPICY TOMATO SAUCE

                                             

Just Before Grilling

500 g (1 lb) large shrimps, peeled, deveined, tails left on, thoroughly washed and patted dry

3 tbsp olive oil

1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper

Salt

1 onion, peeled and grated

1 slice fresh ginger root, peeled

1-2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

500 g (1 lb) ripe tomatoes, blended and sieved

1 tsp sugar or more according to the acidity of the tomatoes

250 g (8 oz) feta cheese, crumbled

Freshly ground black pepper

A little extra olive oil

Cook the shrimps in half the oil, until they change colour, sprinkle with Cayenne pepper and very little salt, then, with a slotted spoon, place them into a baking dish.

In the same saucepan, sauté the onion, ginger and garlic in the remaining olive oil, until the onions are soft.  Add the tomato puree and sprinkle with sugar, freshly ground black pepper and very little salt.  Simmer the sauce gently, until it thickens, stirring occasionally.  Discard the ginger.

Pour the tomato sauce over the shrimps, sprinkle with feta and black pepper and drizzle with a little extra olive oil.  Place under a hot grill until cheese melts and the sauce bubbles.

Serve with a glass of dry white wine and hot, crusty brown bread.

                                                      

                     CHICKEN WITH CREAM AND SWEET WHITE WINE

                                       

Chicken in a White Sauce

 One could, alternatively, use chicken breasts for this dish.

1 kg (2 lb) chicken legs, skinned, boned and cut into bite-sized pieces

Plain flour mixed with

Salt and freshly ground white pepper and

½ tsp ginger powder
½ tsp  grated nutmeg 

2 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp clarified butter

1 onion, grated

3 spring onions, trimmed and  finely sliced

1-2 cloves garlic, chopped

2 sweet red peppers, sliced

125 ml (½ cup) Samos Moschato or any other sweet white wine

375 ml (1 1/2 cup) hot chicken stock or more

250 ml (1 cup) cream

2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped
2 tbsp chives finely snipped

Roll the chicken pieces in seasoned flour, shaking off the excess and sauté in the olive oil and butter.  Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.  Discard all, but one tbsp of the olive oil and butter mixture, add the onion, red peppers and garlic and sauté until the onions are translucent.      

Return the chicken to the saucepan with the vegetables, douse with wine and simmer for 3-4 minutes more, until that the alcohol evaporates.  Add the hot chicken stock and simmer about 15 minutes or until the chicken is thoroughly cooked and tender.    Then pour in the cream, taste and season with more salt, pepper and nutmeg, if necessary.   Finally, stir in the chopped parsley.   Serve the chicken sprinkled with snipped chives, and accompanied with steamed rice or mashed potatoes. 

                        BEEF FILLET WITH MUSHROOMS AND HERBS

                                     

You could alternatively prepare this dish with a dry red wine.

10 slices beef fillet 2.5 cm (1 inch) thick, marinated, for at least 1 hour in:

4 tbsp garlic-scented olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp chopped marjoram leaves

Herbed Butter

4 tbsp soft butter

1 spring onion, very finely chopped

1 tbsp parsley, very finely chopped

½ tsp lemon juice

Salt and, freshly ground pepper

Mushroom Sauce

2 tbsp olive oil

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 large onion, chopped

500 g (1 lb) fresh mushrooms, stalks chopped, caps quartered

2-3 tbsp duxelles* please see below

2 tbsp flour

2 tbsp brandy

360 ml (1½ cup) or more, chicken or mushroom stock

1 tbsp tomato paste, diluted in ¼ cup water

1 tsp fresh marjoram, finely chopped

1 tbsp parsley, finely chopped

60 ml (¼ cup) sweet red wine

*Duxelles:

250 g (½ lb) mushroom stems and a few caps chopped

1 onion chopped

1 garlic clove

2 tbsp olive oil or

1 tbsp olive oil +

1 tbsp butter

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 tbsp chopped parsley

(Sauté the onion in olive oil or butter and olive oil until the onion is transparent.  Add the garlic and mushrooms and cook, stirring constantly until the mixture is quite dry.  Then add the seasoning and parsley.  Simmer 1-2 minutes more, discard the garlic and store in a jar, cover with olive oil and refrigerate.)                    

  

First, prepare the herb butter.  Combine all ingredients together and, with the help of a piece of cling film, shape a small cylinder and ice.

 

For the sauce, sauté the onion and the garlic, in olive oil, until soft.  First add the mushroom stalks, then the caps and chopped marjoram and sauté quickly until quite dry.  Sprinkle with brandy and cook until the alcohol evaporates.  Add the flour and cook, over low heat, stirring for 5-6 minutes more.  Pour in the stock and simmer, stirring, for 8-10 minutes until the sauce thickens. Stir in the duxelles and simmer for 2 minutes more.   Sprinkle with parsley, and keep hot.

Cook the steaks in two batches.  Season each steak on both sides with salt and freshly ground pepper.   Place a frying pan over very high heat and cook the steaks until the meat is cooked as preferred, from about 2 1/2 minutes on each side for rare, 3 1/2 minutes medium and 4 1/2 minutes for well done.  

 

Arrange the fillet steaks on a hot serving dish, place a slice of herbed butter over, and keep hot.  Add the mushroom sauce in the same frying pan in which the stakes were cooked, and quickly cook and stir.  Pour in the sweet red wine cook for a bare moment and spoon half the sauce over the steaks.  Serve immediately with smashed potatoes, sautéed vegetables and the remaining sauce.

    

                               SMASHED POTATOES WITH CREAM

I have already given you the recipe for these very tasty potatoes 

1 kg (2 lb) or more mealy potatoes, peeled and  thickly sliced

Enough tasty vegetable stock to cover

1 garlic clove, peeled

1 sprig sage

Salt and freshly ground white pepper

2 tbsp olive oil

250 ml (1 cup) or more cream

1 tbsp snipped chives

Boil the potatoes with all the ingredients, except the cream and chives.   Discard the garlic and sage and strain.  Return the potatoes to the saucepan and heat to remove any possible moisture and smash them slightly with a fork.

Before serving the potatoes, pour over the cream, stir, and simmer gently.   Taste and season accordingly, if necessary.   Serve sprinkled with snipped chives and freshly ground white pepper.

                       CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH RUM CUSTARD

The picture above depicts a larger chocolate cake sandwiched and topped with rum custard, a superb dessert.

Cake:

45 g (½ cup) cocoa powder, sifted

195 g (1½ cup) self-raising flour

1 vanilla

1 tsp baking powder

½ tsp salt

200 g (1 cup) sugar

115 g (½ cup) butter, softened

1 egg

125 ml (½ cup) Greek yogurt

125 ml (½ cup) boiling water

Rum Custard:

687.5 ml (2 ¾ cups) milk

125 ml (½ cup) dark rum

1 vanilla

3 egg yolks

3 tbsp cornflour

100 g ( ½ cup) sugar

2 tbsp butter

Preheat the oven to 180 C (350 F) and line the base of a 28 cm (11 inches +)  spring-form tin with buttered baking parchment and brush the sides with butter.

Mix the first five ingredients for the cake, well together.  In a food processor pulse butter and sugar until light and fluffy, add the egg and yogurt and pulse for 3 minutes more.   Add the dry ingredients and the boiling water, with the processor running, until a smooth batter is formed.

Scrape the batter into the prepared tin and bake for 45-50 minutes or until a tester inserted in the centre of the cake comes out clean.  Leave for ten minutes, and reverse on a pretty serving dish.

Meanwhile, prepare the rum custard.  Simmer the milk with the rum and vanilla for 5 minutes and whip the egg yolks with the sugar and cornflour until creamy and thick.   Allow the milk to cool for 5 minutes and ladle it into the egg mixture, beating constantly as you add.   Return to the saucepan and simmer gently, stirring with a wooden spoon until the custard thickens, about 15-20 minutes.   Then stir in the butter and cover with cling-film and set aside to cool.  Then ice for ½ an hour.

Slice the chocolate cake in two layers and cover each layer with the rum custard and refrigerate, covered.  Before serving, bring to room temperature and enjoy this delicious dessert.

   

Kampala Roses for My Family