Saturday 4 March 2017

HOME LEAVE 1956 Part I I (Continued)

To summarize, we arrived in Kifissia in April 1956, where we were warmly welcomed by Aleco's  large family.

As my Mother-in-law, Pericles and  Dolly were our next-door neighbors, they initiated me into to family's very interesting history and traditions.   Dolly helped me in a thousand different ways.   Nico and Cleo often invited us to their lovely home in Athens for delicious meals, as Cleo is an exceptional hostess and a talented cook.  I thoroughly enjoyed being so utterly spoilt by my new family.

Milto and Susanne Zouros, old friends from Pakistan, then living in Turkey, were also on home leave in 1956.   We saw a lot of them and we decided to go together for a long weekend to Delphi.


The House of Angelos and Eva Sikelianos in Delphi, now a Museum


Ancient Delphi was built on a steep slope of  Mount Parnassus, over the valley of Phocis.   During the Middle Ages, a village, called Castri, was built over the buried archaeological area.  Apparently, after devastating earthquakes had destroyed the whole region, the residents used local building materials and the shafts and capitals of doric columns to reconstruct their houses!   At the end of the 19th century, the Ecole Francaise d'Athenes, after long and arduous excavations, were compensated by a huge success by discovering the site of ancient Delphi. A tremendous archaeological feat!   So, the inhabitants of Castri had to rebuild their town on a slope further west, that was re-named Delphi.


1890 Wood Engraving of Mount Parnassus, Castri, Delphi
Thanks to Antic and Vintage Art Prints


When we arrived in Delphi, we stayed at the Xenia, a brand new hotel designed by Dimitris Pikionis, the famous Greek architect.   It had a frugal elegance, and a dramatic view of the snow-capped mountain high above and the large valley of  Amphissa far below, thickly planted with silver-green olive groves that reached right down to the sea.

Today, the town of Delphi has excellent hotels, restaurants, cafes, bars and boutiques and of course the same extraordinary view that we so admired and enjoyed in 1956.



Delphi Xenia Hotel Designed by Dimitris Pikionis

Landscape from Delphi by Konstantinos Malea

Mount Parnassus Towering over Delphi


We visited the extensive archaeological complex of Delphi, which includes the Sanctuaries of Apollo and Athena Pronea, plus a large stadium and a 4.500 spectator theatre.   It has since been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, as "having had a phenomenal influence in the Ancient World".   We also visited the Archaeological Museum.

As Susanne was studying to become a tourist guide for her Danish compatriots, she explained special archaeological themes to us, for instance, the reasons that archaeologists disagreed on certain issues concerning Delphi;  when and where myths stop, and truth begins.   Because mythology contains many historical events.  She, also, told us the way one ought to observe the exhibits in a museum.   One should walk around a statue, noticing each limb, each curve, each movement and expression, on all sides and with all lights, gradually discovering its artistic beauty.



The Theatre and Stadium in Ancient Delphi


The Temple of Apollo


Tholos Athena Pronea

According to the myth, Zeus sent two eagles flying towards each other.   Their paths crossed over Delphi, and the spot was pronounced as the omphalos (navel) centre of the earth, so the Temple of Apollo was built there.






The Omphalos in the Delphi Museum

Gradually the Oracle of Delphi became famous and popular in ancient Greece and throughout the then-known world.  People from Asia, Africa and those who lived around the Mediterranean,  flocked to  Delphi, seeking counsel and advice.

The information that we have about the rituals of the oracle is vague.  Apparently, the believer would first make an offering and a sacrifice to Apollo.  The High Priestess, Pythia, would listen to him attentively, in the inner chamber, the most sacred part of the Temple, which contained the omphalos (navel) and a gold statue of the god.  She then sat on a tripod, fell into a deep trance and started writhing, foaming at the mouth and uttering strange, guttural sounds.  The priests would interpret these incoherent sounds into verse and the Pythia's message was given to the pilgrim.   These messages were obscure and ambiguous so they were, often, misunderstood and misinterpreted.  Nevertheless, the ancient Greeks had absolute and complete faith in the Oracle of Delphi.



Pythia Sitting on her Tripod


Pythia in a Frenzied Trance 


Anyone could visit the temple to ask for the oracle, whether king, public official or a simple citizen.  In the beginning one could approach the oracle for advice, only once a year,   Later it was changed to once a month, so Delphi became rich and powerful by the generous gifts of the believers.  Many famous people visited Delphi, including the intelligentsia and the wise, like Socrates.  The believers  did not only ask for private matters but also for affairs of state, such as the declaration of war or inaugurating a colony.  So the Oracle of Delphi became very influential in political, economic and religious affairs.  It was also considered an emblem of Greek unity.

To honour Apollo, the Pythian Games were held every four years, at the Delphi Stadium.  They were the precursor to the Olympic games and brought additional fame and wealth to Delphi.

Initially, Delphi and the Pythian Games were managed by the representatives of six Greek tribes of Thessaly and Central Greece, the Amphictyonic Council.  A kind of a "League of Neighbours".  They met twice a year and took decisions on economic and religious matters, imposed fines, expelled offenders and declared religious wars.  As Delphi increased economically, politically and culturally the council, progressively, lost all of its power and authority.

As we were climbing up towards the Temple of Apollo we saw many Treasuries.  These were one-rooms buildings constructed by Greek city-states to commemorate their victories and to pay homage and show gratitude to the oracle for the advice that had, supposedly, granted those victories. These small buildings held the treasures offered to Apollo, usually the tenth of the loot of each battle.  One of the most impressive being the AthenianTreasury, built as an offering after the victorious battle of Marathon, against Persia.   Others are the Treasuries of Argos, Siphnos, Sikynia, Boeotia and Thebes.




The Athenian Treasury


Then Treasury of Siphnos


The Charioteer in the Delphi Museum


The Delphi Museum

Because the region of Delphi was prone to monster earthquakes, the temples were destroyed and rebuilt on several occasions.  Also, the Romans plundered Delphi; Sulla stole many treasures and Nero smuggled over 200 bronze statues to Rome.    When Christianity spread, the importance of Delphi declined and as late as 390 A.D. the temple shut down and the Oracle was condemned to silence.

And a few last words about the Castalian spring. in Delphi, which flows from a ravine between two rocks, the Phaedriades.  During antiquity, the temples were washed with, and priests bathed in its clear waters.  Also, the pilgrims who came to consult the Oracle, and the athletes who took part in the Pythian games quenched their thirst and cleansed themselves in the Castalian spring.





The Clear  Waters of the Castalian Spring




Please find below a few recipes that I hope you will enjoy preparing, serving and eating.




                                             FISH AND PRAWN SOUP
                                        

Fish and Prawn Soup


Saffron filaments are the dried stigmas of the saffron flower CROCUS SATIVUS LINNAEUS, the most expensive spice in the world.  It has a distinctive aroma and taste and is much appreciated by culinary experts, and by most of us.   It is also a medical herb as it relieves tension, and has antioxidant, and health promoting properties.

The Saffron Gatherer  

 Archaeological excavations, in Crete and Santorini, brought frescoes to light, depicting saffron flowers.   One fresco, in particular, the famous “Saffron Gatherer”, depicts a monkey collecting saffron lilies!   Kozani, in northern Greece, produces one of the highest quality saffron in the world, so do use it, whenever possible.


1½ kg (3 lb) fish (bass, cod, hake, snapper), scaled, washed and filleted
500 g (1 lb) prawns, peeled and deveined,  reserve a few with their tails on for garnishing
Salt and pepper to taste
1-2 tbsp lemon juice or more

2 tbsp olive oil
2 large onions, peeled and sliced
1 garlic clove, peeled
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 leeks, sliced lengthwise, thoroughly washed and sliced (white parts only)
2 small potatoes, peeled and cubed
2 stalks celery, trimmed and sliced
1 large fennel bulb, trimmed and cut into chunks

1 1/2  litres (6 cups) slightly salted fish stock made out of the heads and bones of the fish and the heads and shells of the prawns

5-7 saffron filaments, soaked in 
125 ml (1/2 cup) water

1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper, optional
2 tbsp ouzo or 
125 ml (½ cup} dry white wine



 Slightly salt the fish and toss the prawns with a little lemon juice and marinate for about 15-30 minutes.

Meanwhile sauté the vegetables in the olive oil, in a large saucepan, add the fish stock and cook until tender.  Tip the vegetables and stock into a large bowl, and blend and sieve them back into the saucepan, pushing with the back of a soup ladle to extract all the taste.  Add the saffron and ouzo or wine, bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes more.

 Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper, add it to the soup and simmer very gently for 10-12 minutes.    Then dry and add the prawns to the soup and simmer 4-5 minutes more.   Taste and add salt, if necessary, pepper and Cayenne pepper, if using.  You might, also, have to thin the soup with a little hot water, if it seems too thick.  

Serve the soup in large bowls, garnished with the reserved prawns and sprinkled with garlicky croutons.



                                                  COURGETTE TART


Cheese Melting over the Courgette Filling 

This is a delectable savoury tart.


Pastry:
400 g ( 13,3 oz) self-raising flour mixed with
1/4  tsp salt
190 butter
1 egg yolk
200 g (1 small tub) Greek strained yogurt 2% fat


1½ tbsp fine dried breadcrumbs for sprinkling over the pastry


Filling:
1 tbsp olive oil
600 g (1 lb 3 oz) courgettes, thickly grated
3 medium carrots, peeled and grated
1 medium onion, peeled and grated
2 spring onions trimmed and finely sliced
2 tender celery stalks, threaded, trimmed and finely sliced
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
500 ml (2 cups) light cream

For the top:
90 g (3 oz) bland kasseri or Emmenthal, thickly grated
90 g (3 oz) Naxos graviera or Gouda, thickly grated
90 g (3 oz) Parmesan, finely grated  
Freshly ground white pepper



Begin with the pastry.   Rub the butter into the flour until it looks like fine breadcrumbs. Add the egg yolk and enough yogurt to obtain a soft dough. Do not overwork the dough, because it will toughen,  Wrap in cling film and let it rest for 30 minutes, in the fridge. 

Meanwhile, prepare the filling. Sauté the vegetables in olive oil, add salt and pepper, lower the heat and let them sweat very, very gently until they resemble a puree.  Add the cream and simmer until most of the liquid has evaporated.   Remove from the stove and cool. 

Preheat the oven to180 C (350 F).   Roll out enough dough between two pieces of baking parchment to line a  buttered 30 cm /12 inch round tart dish.   Prick the pastry all over with a fork, sprinkle with bread crumbs and about a ¼  of the grated cheese.  Carefully spoon in the filling, and level the surface.  Mix the remaining grated cheese with freshly ground white pepper and sprinkle, evenly, on top.  Pinch the dough around the edge into a pretty pattern and bake for about 40 minutes. (Do not forget to store the remaining dough in the freezer, covered with cling film.)

Serve with a green salad as a first course or as a light meal.



                                    A MACARONI PIE WITH PHYLLO PASTRY






To honour the residents of Amphissa and Delphi,  I am giving you a recipe for a regional dish that I have changed slightly.


500 g (1 lb)  thick macaroni, boiled al dente in tasty chicken stock and drizzled with a little olive oil

330 g (11 oz) white mushrooms, wiped, cubed, sauteed, over high heat, with 1 sliced garlic clove in 1 tbsp  olive oil, sprinkled lightly with salt

120 g (4 oz) grated Graviera from Crete or Emmenthal or Gruyere, thickly grated
300 g (10 oz) mild feta thickly grated

5 eggs
500 ml (2 cups) full milk
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
A few gratings of nutmeg

One 500 g (1 lb) packet of phyllo pastry
125 ml (1/2 cup) or more melted butter

1 egg whipped with
2 tbsp milk and
The smallest pinch of salt


Heat the oven to 180 C (350 F).  Place the macaroni in a large bowl and sprinkle with the grated cheese and the sauteed mushrooms and toss carefully but thoroughly.

Whip the eggs with salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste, and grated nutmeg.   Then add the milk, whip to combine and pour it over the pasta mixture.

Line a buttered tin, 30 cm (12 inches) in diameter, with half the pastry sheets, each lavishly buttered.    Pour in the liquid macaroni mixture, cover with the overhanging pastry, using extra buttered pastry to patch any possible gaps.  Place the remaining sheets of phyllo on top, each brushed with the remaining butter.  Trim the sheets and neatly push them down the sides of the tin.

Whip the egg with the milk and salt and brush it evenly over the surface of the pie.  Bake for 40 minutes until the pie becomes golden and crispy.  Serve with a salad combined with Amphissa olives.




                                            CHICKEN WITH WINE


 Chicken With Wine 


This is a different recipe for chicken with wine.  You can prepare it either with red or with white wine.


1 1/2 kg (3 lb) chicken, skinned, extra fat removed and cut into serving pieces

Marinade:
750 ml (1 bottle) good quality red or white wine
2 onions, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 medium-sized carrots, peeled and finely sliced
2 tender celery stalks, threaded and finely chopped
2 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
3 cloves

125 ml (1/2 cup) olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste
1 tsp peppercorns
2 sprigs tarragon

2 tbsp plain flour
125 ml (1/2 cup) water

30 g (1 oz) or more butter cut into small pieces


Arrange the chicken pieces, in one layer, in a deep container.   Pour in the wine, the chopped vegetables, the herbs and the cloves, cover and refrigerate, overnight.

The next day, remove the chicken from the marinade and pat it dry with kitchen paper.   In a flat saucepan, saute the chicken in olive oil. on all sides, until golden and sprinkle all over with salt and freshly ground pepper.  Remove all but 1 tbsp olive oil from the saucepan.

Meanwhile, bring the marinade to the boil and simmer for 12 minutes.  Strain it over the chicken, cover the saucepan and simmer for 15 minutes, add the peppercorns and tarragon tied in cheesecloth. and keep on cooking until in the chicken is tender.  Check and remove the breast pieces first, because they have a tendency to toughen.    Remove the chicken with a slotted spoon and keep hot.

Remove the tarragon and the peppercorns, strain the sauce and pour it back into the saucepan and bring it, almost, to a simmer.    Mix the flour and water and strain over the sauce, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens and bubbles.  Taste for seasoning and add more salt and freshly ground pepper if necessary.   Transfer the chicken pieces back into the sauce and cook for five minutes more.   Add the butter and swirl the saucepan.

Serve with chips or smashed potatoes and vegetables of your choice. ( I have already given you the recipe for smashed potatoes).



                  HAZELNUT CAKE WITH A HAZELNUT PRALINE TOPPING


Ready for Tea

Some time ago, I gave you a recipe for a hazelnut dessert, this one is for a cake with a hazelnut praline topping.


7 medium-sized eggs, separated
A pinch of salt
Vanilla
150 g (5 oz) sugar
300 g (10 oz) roasted, skinned*, thinly ground and mixed with
3 tbsp dried breadcrumbs
1 1/2 tsp baking powder dissolved in
1 liqueur glass Metaxa brandy

Heat the oven to 180 C (350 F).  Also, butter the sides of a 30 cm (12 inches) round tin and line with buttered baking parchment.

 Whipp the egg whites with a pinch of salt to the soft peak stage, then add 3 tbsp of sugar gradually, whipping until stiff and shiny.

Beat the egg yolks with the remaining sugar until pale in colour and doubled in bulk.   Gently fold in the hazelnut and breadcrumb mixture and stir in the brandy and baking powder until thoroughly combined.

Gently,  fold in the whipped egg whites until no streaks of white are evident.  Pour the batter into the prepared baking dish, level the surface and bake in the preheated oven for 35-40 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean.   Press a flexible knife around the tin to release the cake and reverse it on a pretty platter, and allow it to cool.

Thickly spread the cake with homemade praline cream and garnish it with chopped hazelnut or chocolate curls and maraschino cherries for colour.


                                   HOMEMADE HAZELNUT PRALINE CREAM



Blending the  Hazelnuts into a Tick Paste

You could prepare a triple amount of this sauce, place it in prepared jars, and store in the fridge.  This is not prepared with hazelnut praline. I use condensed milk as a sweetening agent.


100 g (an ample 3 oz) dark chocolate, chopped
120 g (4 oz) butter cut into cubes
60 oz (2 oz) hazelnuts, roasted, skinned* and blended into a thick paste
198.5 g (1/2 tin) sweet condensed milk
Vanilla

Place everything in a metal bowl over simmering water (au bain Marie) and stir until the chocolate and butter melt and all the ingredients combine into a smooth shiny sauce,  Remove from the heat and allow to cool.


*How to skin hazelnuts:   Place the hazelnuts in a single layer, in a tin.   Roast in an oven preheated to 180 C (350 F) for 12-13 minutes, stirring occasionally.   Vigourously rub a few hot hazelnuts at a time, between two kitchen towels, until the skins fall off.



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