Our 1953 home leave was the most memorable ever. To recapitulate, my parents and I arrived in England on the 21st June 1953. The next day was the Coronation of Queen Elisabeth II. We watched the ceremony on television, the first major event that was ever televised by the B.B.C., with millions of spectators in the United Kingdom . Coronation London was festive, the residents jubilant and very proud of their young, new Queen. We stayed there, for about a month. Then we went for a short stay in Paris , for me, the most beautiful and fascinating city in the world, the city of light. Venice was next; a unique city built on the sea, a scene of history, fairytales and dreams, with very interesting food!
From there, we sailed for my beautiful island of Cephalonia . We re-discovered the attractions of the landscape, small coves and lovely beaches, high mountains, small villages perched on green hillsides and Argostoli, a gem of a town with neoclassical houses painted in light pastel colours, and of course the “wine-dark” Ionian sea. Suddenly, in mid-August, a monster earthquake, measuring 7.2 of the Richter scale, leveled the whole of Cephalonia and Zante to the ground, leaving Ithaka and Lefkada partly damaged.
After the earthquakes, we stayed in Argostoli for five more days, and then we left for Athens . Athens in 1953 was a beautiful city, the roads lined with orange trees, the centre decorated with elegant, late 19th-century and early 20th-century houses. We, also, spent a week in Loutraki, a fashionable spa, we met with old and new friends and had a wonderful time.
Our home leave was coming to an end and we had to return to Karachi . So, we left Greece in late November 1953, boarded a Greek ship, and sailed from Piraeus to Suez, via Beirut . The weather was wonderful, the ship was modern and the officers and staff were excellent professionals.
Our first port of call was Beirut , which is amphitheatrically built on the slopes of Mount Lebanon . In 1953, the centre of Beirut was densely built, the boulevards congested with traffic. The fashionable part of the city was full of restaurants and boutiques. Driving up the slopes one came across the famous “yellow houses” that were built during the French Mandate period, surrounded by gardens. Apparently, a few years later, major European urban planners like Constantinos Doxiades , Lebret IRFED’s team and others were commissioned to propose, plan and remodel the centre of the metropolis and the infrastructure.
Yellow Houses, Beirut
We sailed for
We stopped at
During the middle ages, Aden was, under Yemeni, Ethiopian and Arab control. It attracted many merchants, from Egypt , India and China , who had excellent relations with the port authorities.
Aden harbouring Portuguese ships
Being a coveted possession, as it was the only bunkering port to the East, Aden was later conquered by the Portuguese and the Ottoman Turks. In the middle of the 19th century, the East India Company sent marines to defend the territory and prevent attacks by pirates (does this ring a bell?) against the British shipping to and from
In 1953, Aden was a bustling, small city and a free port. My Mother and I bought scent and cosmetics, my Father bought stamps. Then we boarded MS Batory and sailed off to Karachi .
SPINACH AU GRATIN
1 kg (2 lb) fresh spinach
2 tbsp olive oil
1 leek, sliced lengthwise then washed and chopped
2 spring onions, trimmed and sliced
2 tbsp chervil, if available, finely chopped
1 tbsp Mediterranean hartwort, if available, finely chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
1 leek, sliced lengthwise then washed and chopped
2 spring onions, trimmed and sliced
2 tbsp chervil, if available, finely chopped
1 tbsp Mediterranean hartwort, if available, finely chopped
1 tbsp butter plus extra for buttering the dish
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
90 g (3 oz) mild feta, sliced into slivers
1-2 tbsp finely grated San Mihalis or Parmesan
Wash and trim the spinach, place in a saucepan (it should not require water) and simmer for 5 minutes. Strain the spinach and when it's cool enough to handle, squeeze the water out with your hands and chop it up.
In the meantime saute the leek and spring onions in olive oil and a little water for five minutes and sprinkle with salt. Stir in the Mediterranean hartwort and after 2 minutes add the chervil and continue cooking for a few minutes more. Combine the spinach with the leek mixture, stir very well and cook over low heat. Taste and add a little salt, if necessary, and freshly ground black pepper.
Prepare the white sauce (please see the recipe below). Ladle enough white sauce to cover the base of a buttered ovenproof dish, Arrange the spinach, evenly, over and cover sparingly, with feta. Ladle the remaining white sauce over and sprinkle with grated cheese
In the meantime saute the leek and spring onions in olive oil and a little water for five minutes and sprinkle with salt. Stir in the Mediterranean hartwort and after 2 minutes add the chervil and continue cooking for a few minutes more. Combine the spinach with the leek mixture, stir very well and cook over low heat. Taste and add a little salt, if necessary, and freshly ground black pepper.
Prepare the white sauce (please see the recipe below). Ladle enough white sauce to cover the base of a buttered ovenproof dish, Arrange the spinach, evenly, over and cover sparingly, with feta. Ladle the remaining white sauce over and sprinkle with grated cheese
Bake the spinach in a moderate oven, preheated to 190 C (375 F), for about half and hour or until the surface is puffed and golden.
GREEK WHITE SAUCE
1 litre (4 cups) milk, brought to the boil with
1 bay leaf, then removed from the fire and allowed to cool
4 heaped tbsp cornflour
Nutmeg to taste
150 g (3 oz) kasseri or gruyere or cheddar, roughly grated
4 medium-sized eggs, separated, whites whipped to soft peaks with a pinch of salt
3 tbsp Greek yogurt, low fat if preferred
Salt, if necessary and
Freshly ground white pepper to taste
Discard the bay leaf from the milk, stir in the cornflour, nutmeg and bring to the boil, whisking constantly, until the sauce thickens and bubbles.
Remove the sauce from the stove and stir in the pepper and 2/3 of the cheese and set aside to cool a little. Mix the egg yolks with the yogurt very well together and stir into the warm sauce. Taste and add the remaining cheese and more salt and freshly ground white pepper, if necessary. Fold in the egg whites, gently, until no traces of white are visible.
BABA GANOUSH
2 large aubergines
Lemon juice
1 tbsp garlic cream (please see post LENT 2015)
2-3 tbsp or more tarator sauce (please see below)
2 tbsp olive oil
Salt, if necessary and
Freshly ground while pepper
¼ tsp Cayenne pepper
¼ tsp ground cumin, optional
Lemon juice
Garnish:
2 spring onions, finely sliced
1 cup parsley, chopped
Prick each aubergine with the prongs of a fork in 3-4 places, then turn each over a gas flame until charred and soft. Otherwise, first hold each aubergine over a gas flame until the skin blisters. Then place them in a hot oven for about 20 minutes, or until the desired softness has been achieved, and remove from oven to cool Cut the aubergines in half, scoop out the flesh and drizzle with lemon juice.
Blend the aubergines with the garlic cream and the tarator sauce, until smooth. Taste and add more salt and pepper, Cayenne pepper and cumin if using. Also, add more lemon juice, if necessary. (More frequently for baba ganoush, tarator sauce is replaced by tahini).
Pile the baba ganoush in a bowl and serve, sprinkled with spring onions and parsley.
TARATOR SAUCE
A recipe for another sauce that’s very popular.
150 g (5 oz) bread, soaked and squeezed dry
90 g (3 oz) walnuts or hazelnuts, ground
1 tbsp garlic cream (please see previous post LENT 2015)
4 tbsp olive oil
Salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ tsp Cayenne or less, optional
Vinegar or lemon juice to taste
Blend the bread, nuts and garlic until well combined. Add the olive oil and blend until the sauce has a creamy texture. Season it with salt, pepper and Cayenne pepper, if using. Finally, stir in the vinegar or lemon juice by the spoonful in order reach the preferred acidity. Place in a bowl, cover and refrigerate.
CHICKEN WITH WALNUT SAUCE
CIRKASSIAN CHICKEN
6 chicken breasts, skinned
6 chicken wings
For the stock:
Two onions, each stuck with a clove
2 celery stalks trimmed
2 carrots peeled
1 slice ginger
1 very thin lemon slice
Salt
1 tsp pepper corns
1 bouquet garni (1 bay leaf -1 sprig thyme - 1 sprig tarragon)
For the sauce:
250 g (½ lb) dry bread, crusts removed
Chicken stock
330 g (11 oz) walnuts, coarsely ground
1 tsp garlic cream (Please see in previous post LENT 2015)
2 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced
2 tbsp mayonnaise
2 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced
2 tbsp mayonnaise
Freshly ground black pepper
Paprika
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tsp sweet paprika
1/2 cup chopped parsley
1/2 cup chopped parsley
Cover the chicken breasts and wings with water and bring to the boil, skimming the surface thoroughly. Then add all the ingredients for the stock, bring to the boil once more. Simmer for about half an hour or more, until the chicken breasts are tender. Remove the saucepan from the stove to cool, Remove the chicken and strain the stock.
Meanwhile, prepare the sauce. Soak the bread in a little chicken stock and blend with the walnuts. Place the mixture in a saucepan, pour more stock over and simmer very gently until the sauce thickens. Remove from the fire to cool. Stir in the garlic cream, spring onions, mayonnaise and paprika, taste for seasoning and adjust with salt, pepper and more paprika if necessary.
Heat the olive oil, add the paprika, and cook very gently for about 2 minutes and cool.
Shred the chicken into small pieces and mix with half the sauce. Place the mixture, attractively, on a serving dish and cover with remaining sauce. Dribble the olive oil and paprika over and serve cold, sprinkled with chopped parsley.
POLISH BEETROOT AND PRAWN SOUP
500 g (1 lb) tender beetroots, peeled and thickly grated
1½ litre (6 cups) tasty vegetable stock
1½ tbsp vinegar
1½ tsp sugar
500 g (1 lb) prawns, shelled and de-veined
1 sprig fresh rosemary
A little salt
125 ml (½ cup) soured cream
1 cucumber, peeled, de-seeded and diced
1-2 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced
Lemon juice to taste
Freshly ground white pepper
Salt, if necessary
1 tbsp fresh dill, for garnish
Bring the beetroot and the vegetable stock to a brisk boil and cook for 10 minutes, lower the heat, add the vinegar and sugar and simmer gently for half an hour. Strain into a large bowl and let the beetroots and the stock cool, separately, to room temperature.
Sauté the prawns and the rosemary sprig
When the stock is completely cold, whip in the soured cream. Stir in the beetroot, prawns, diced cucumber and spring onions. Taste and add salt if necessary, freshly ground white pepper and lemon juice, to taste. Wrap the bowl with the soup with cling film and refrigerate for 3 hours at least.
Serve the soup in chilled soup bowls, sprinkled with chopped dill.
SMOKED TROUT MOUSSE
Greek smoked trout, and smoked salmon are of excellent quality. We are very proud of our Food Industry and of small food producers, all over
620 g (1 lb 4 oz) smoked trout fillets, checked for possible bones, cut in small pieces
Sauce:
4 tbsp butter
5 tbsp cornflour
500 ml (2 cups) or more hot milk
1 medium-sized onion
1 bay leaf
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
5 sheets gelatin, separated and steeped in iced cold water for 5-7 minutes
125 g (½ cup) mayonnaise, low fat if preferred
2 tbsp lemon juice
1 grated rind of 1 lemon
2 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced
2 tbsp chopped dill
250 ml full cream, whipped into soft peaks
Salt to taste
Freshly ground white pepper
Parsley, halved lemon slices, a few chive stalks for garnish
Bring the milk to the boil, with the onion and bay leaf. Remove from the fire and leave to infuse for at least 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, line a cake tin with a hole in the middle or a loaf tin, first with cling film. Then cover with salmon slices forming an attractive design, leaving the excess hanging over and reserve.
Prepare the sauce. Melt the butter, add conflour and cook, stirring for 2-3 minutes. Strain the milk and add it gradually to the roux, stirring constantly. Simmer the sauce until it thickens and bubbles, stirring for 3-4 minutes more. Remove from the heat.
Squeeze the gelatin sheets and mix very well into the warm sauce until completely combined. Add the sauce to the smoked trout and blend until completely smooth. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and quickly add the mayonnaise, lemon juice and zest, chopped dill, spring onions and mix very well together. Fold in the whipped cream and then taste for seasoning and adjust with salt, pepper, lemon juice and chopped dill, if necessary.
Spoon the trout mousse, evenly into the prepared cake tin and fold the salmon slices that are hanging over the mouse. Place extra pieces of smoked salmon to cover any possible gaps. Cover securely with a plastic bag and refrigerate overnight.
One hour before serving remove the mousse from the refrigerator, unfold the cling film and carefully reverse it onto a serving dish. Garnish with parsley in the hole in the middle (if using the round tin), lemon slices and chives. Cover and refrigerate. Serve with a green salad and crusty, warm bread.
CHOCOLATE COFFEE CREAM
The recipe for the ganache, given below, is made with dark chocolate filled with a superb cappuccino cream.
100 g (about 3 1/3 oz) dark chocolate, chopped
100 g (about 3 1/3 oz) dark chocolate filled with cappuccino cream, chopped
200 g (almost 6 fl oz) thick cream
2 tsp honey or more
Thick cream whipped with a little icing sugar, optional
Strawberries
Place the chocolate pieces in a bowl. Heat the cream just below the boiling point and pour over the chopped chocolate. Add honey to taste and stir everything well together, until the sauce is cold, smooth and glossy.
Serve in liqueur glasses, garnished with whipped cream, if using, and a strawberry or any other fruit of your choice.
STRAWBERRY MOUSSE
250 g (½ lb) strawberries, hulled
60 g (2 oz) icing sugar or more according to the acidity of the fruit
A pinch of salt
2 tbsp good quality brandy
3 gelatin sheets, separated and soaked in ice-cold water for 5-6 minutes
210 g (7 oz) double cream, whipped to soft peaks
Strawberry jelly for garnish
Strawberry jelly for garnish
First blend the strawberries with the icing sugar, salt and brandy, until smooth. Taste and add more sugar, if necessary and tip the strawberry coulis into a large bowl.
Remove a cupful of pulp and heat, but do not boil. Squeeze the gelatin sheets to remove as much water as possible, and stir into the hot pulp, until very well combined. Pour the gelatin mixture into the remaining strawberry coulis and mix well together. Cover the bowl with cling film and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Then fold the whipped cream into the strawberry mixture, until no signs of white are visible. Place in liqueur glasses and garnish each, with strawberry jelly.
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