Monday, 23 June 2014

Cherries


Cherry is the juicy fruit of the Prunus Avium tree that flourishes throughout the temperate regions of the world.   The words “cherry”, “cerise”, “cereza” derive from the Greek “kerassos” and refer to one of the most popular summer fruits. 

Edible cherries fall into 3 categories, sweet, semi-sweet and sour and they can be either black or white. The sweet and semi-sweet kind can be eaten either fresh or cooked, while sour cherries make wonderful preserves and beverages, but unfortunately, they, both, have a very short growing season.

When we bought our house, so many years ago, we were delighted to find a Morello cherry tree and a white cherry tree (petrokerassia) in the garden.    We still recall, with nostalgia, the beauty of the blossomed trees in early spring and our craving for, and the utmost  pleasure of tasting the first luscious cherries of the year. 





CHERRY SOUP



Poland is the 1st producer of cherries in the European Union.   This Polish cherry soup is made with beef stock and is thickened with whipped egg yolks and cream.   I prepare it with chicken stock and serve it with 
croutons.  Thank you Poland for the inspiration!


1½ litre (6 cups) tasty chicken stock
1 clove garlic, sliced
1 thin slice ginger
1 tsp whole pepper corns, salt
300 g (10 oz) sweet black cherries

Croutons for serving

Place the chicken stock in a large, heavy saucepan with the garlic, ginger and peppercorns and simmer for 12 minutes.    Add the cherries and simmer very gently for about 30 minutes or until the fruit is cooked.    Then pass the soup through a fine strainer, reserve the fruit and discard the spices. Taste and add a little salt if necessary.  

This is a tasty, dark red soup and I recommend it as a starter. Serve it with croutons and a few of the reserved cherries if you wish. 



BLACK FOREST CHERRY CAKE



This is a cake that I often used to bake when my children were teenagers and young adults.

Cake:
6 medium-sized eggs
300 g (1½ cup) sugar, a pinch of salt
Vanilla
130 g (1 cup) self-raising flour
45 g (about 1/3 cup) cocoa
1½ tsp baking powder
1 tbsp clarified butter (optional)
(Heat the butter very gently, remove the foam and spoon the clear butter into a bowl)
A little more for brushing the cake tin

Syrup:
375 ml (1½ cup) fresh orange juice
2-3 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp Kirsh

Filling:
One 425 g ( 14 oz +) tin of Morello cherries + syrup, e.i.  
(240 g/8 oz) strained cherries, thoroughly dried
Or the equal amount of fresh, pitted cherries poached in a light syrup, strained and dried

Topping:
500 ml (2 cups) thick cream
75 g (2½ oz) icing sugar
2 tbsp Kirsh

Garnish:
Chocolate curls
2-3 red Maraschino cherries


Preheat the oven to 180 C(350F) and brush a 28 cm (11 inch) round cake tin with clarified butter.

First prepare the cake.  Whip the eggs, sugar, salt and vanilla together until tripled in bulk.  Sift over the flour and cocoa mixture, a little at a time and gently fold in with a flexible spatula.  Finally add the clarified butter, if using.  Pour the batter into the prepared tin and bake, for 25-30 minutes or until a tester, inserted in the middle of the cake, comes out clean.  Run a knife around the rim of the cake, and turn it out on a rack, to cool

Meanwhile whip the cream with the icing sugar to the stiff peak stage.   Pour in the Kirsh and whip only until the liqueur is absorbed and refrigerate.

Cut the cake in two equal layers and place the one layer on a round serving dish. Sprinkle evenly with syrup and spread, sparingly, with whipped cream.  Arrange the poached Morello cherries on top.  Cover gently with the other layer of cake, sprinkle with syrup and cover the top and sides with the remaining whipped cream.  Gently press the chocolate curls into the sides and top of the cake and garnish with 3-4 maraschino cherries. Cover and refrigerate the cake until ready to serve.  



HOMEMADE CHERRY BRANDY
                                                


This is an easy homemade liqueur.  Don’t forget to shake the bottle daily.

1 ½ litres (6 cups) good quality brandy
1 ½ kg (3 lb) Morello cherries, stalks removed
1 kg (5 cups) caster sugar

2 sticks cinnamon and
6 cloves (both optional)

 Place the brandy in a large, dark bottle that will hold everything comfortably.   Add the cherries, sugar and the spices, if using, shake thoroughly and seal.  Set aside for a fortnight, shaking the bottle once a day.   Discard the spices, if using, and pour into prepared bottles.




CHERRY  LIQUEUR


This is a liqueur made with crushed cherries and any liquor of your choice, like votka, brandy or tsipouro.

1 kg (2 lb) sweet red cherries, pitted and crushed
1 litre (4 cups) of any liquor you like
350 g (an ample 11 oz) caster sugar

Place the crushed cherries in a large jar and pour in the liquor and seal well.   Allow the ingredients to ferment for 1 month in a sunny part of your kitchen.  

Strain the cherries through a fine sieve, with a double lining of cheesecloth and squeeze well, so as not to loose the flavours.   Pour back into the same jar, add the sugar and shake.  Leave the cherry liqueur in the jar for one week, shaking it every second day.


Pour into bottles, seal, and Chin Chin.




SOUR CHERRY SPOON SWEET AND SOUR CHERRY SYRUP




Once, in Greece, spoon sweets were offered with a glass of iced water, to welcome visitors to our homes, and they are part of our culinary culture.   Over the years, this tradition, slowly died out, and spoon-sweets are served, in this fashion, only in monasteries, a few homes and the fruit producing regions of the country.    

Naturally, spoons sweets are still prepared and bought, but they are, now, presented in different ways.   They’re served over yogurt and ice creams, they are used for preparing cakes and puddings or as a garnish for desserts.

Sour cherry spoon sweet and “Vissinatha” (sour cherry syrup), with which a refreshing soft drink is prepared, are, both. very popular in Greece.



1½ kg (3 lbs) sour cherries, washed, pitted and rinsed with
1.250 ml (5 cups) water
2 kg (4 lbs) sugar
2 tbsp lemon juice
125 ml (½ cup) liquid glucose

Place the cherries in alternating layers with the sugar, pour the water over and simmer gently, for 20 minutes, skimming the froth, thoroughly.   Remove from the heat and let cool, shaking the saucepan several times, so as to help the fruit to plump up. 

24 hours later, bring the cherries to the boil, add the lemon juice and glucose and simmer until the syrup thickens  If you have a sugar thermometer it should reach 105 C (220 F) degrees.   But if you don’t, like me, drop half tablespoonful of hot sauce onto a cold saucer, spread it and let it cool.  Draw the back of a spoon through the syrup, which, if thickened sufficiently, should not come together.


Ladle the cherries into sterilized jars, cover with syrup and seal.  The remaining syrup should also be stored in prepared bottles and sealed. 




CHERRY TART


This is a lovely dessert, with a crispy crust, a custard prepared with cherry juice and sweet white wine, topped with cherries poached with wine and sugar.


Pastry:
260 g (2 cups) self-raising flour
1 tsp baking powder
A pinch of salt
6 tbsp sugar
½ tbsp cinnamon
2 tbsp finely ground semolina
180 g (6 oz) butter
2 medium-sized eggs, whipped

1 kg (2 lb) sweet black cherries, pitted, juice and pits reserved ( please see below)
225 (¾ cup) sugar
1 liqueur glass Samos Nektar or any other sweet white wine

Custard:
125 ml (½ cup) cherry juice
250 ml (1 cup) Samos Nektar or any other sweet white wine
3 heaped tbsp cornflour diluted in
4 tbsp water
1 tsp cinnamon
½ tsp grated nutmeg
3 medium-sized eggs, lightly whipped with
A pinch of salt
250 ml (1 cup) or less thick cream
Light cherry syrup (please see below)

2 tbsp thickly ground roasted almonds mixed with
1 1/2 tbsp sugar



Prepare the pastry by mixing all the ingredients together into a soft, pliable dough.    With the palm of your hands press the dough, evenly, and line 30 cm (12 inch) tart dish.   Prick the dough all over, cover with baking parchment and beans, and bake blind for 15 minutes covered, and about 15 minutes more uncovered or until the pastry is crisp and golden brown.   Remove from the oven and cool.

Place the cherries with the sugar and wine in a saucepan and simmer gently for about 10 minutes and remove from the fire.  Stir several times to allow the fruit to absorb part of the syrup.  After 15 minutes strain the cherries and place on kitchen paper to dry, reserving the remaining light cherry syrup.

For the custard, first add the sweet wine into the reserved cherry juice and pits, stir well and strain.   There should be about 375 ml (1½ cups) liquid.  Mix all the ingredients for the custard, except the cream, together in a bowl and cook gently over simmering water, stirring continuously until the custard thickens.   Stir in half the amount of cream, simmer for 2 minutes more and remove from the fire to cool.   Stir the custard occasionally to prevent a skin forming.   Taste and add a little more sugar, if necessary. When it is cold it should keep its shape in a spoon.   Add more cream if the custard is too thick.

Sprinkle the almond/sugar mixture over the baked pastry case, spoon the custard, evenly, over, cover lavishly with the poached cherries and chill.  One hour before needed, remove for the fridge and serve with a glass of the same sweet wine that you used in the custard.



SPICY CHERRY JAM



This is neither a chutney nor a relish it’s just fruit cooked with spices and sugar until thick and delicious.


1 kg (2 lb) sweet white and black cherries, pitted and mashed
Sugar:  for every
250 ml (1 cup) cherry pulp use
187.5 ml (¾ cup) sugar

1 tsp salt
6 garlic cloves, sliced
3 heaped tsp grated ginger
1 tsp cinnamon
125 ml (½ cup) vinegar

125 ml (½ cup) sweet white wine

Place all the ingredients, except the wine, in a saucepan large enough to hold everything comfortably.   Simmer very gently until the fruit is cooked.


Sieve the cherries and syrup through a fine strainer, pushing with the back of a spoon to release all the fruit pulp, sprinkling with the wine to help the process.   Pour back into the saucepan and simmer until thick.  Taste and add more salt, sugar or vinegar, if necessary, and simmer for 2 minutes more.   Place the jam in sterilized jars and seal.   Serve with meat or cheese.





UPSIDE DOWN CHOCOLATE CHERRY CAKE



This is an interesting cake, not as attractive as its apple or pineapple counterpart, but different

 About 1 kg white cherries, pitted
3 tbsp melted butter
3 tbsp sugar
A pinch of cinnamon

Cake:
1 egg
200 g (1cup) sugar
125 g ( 1/2 cup) melted butter
Vanilla

195 g (1½ cup) self raising flour mixed with
40 g (almost ½ cup) cocoa
1 tsp baking powder
1tsp baking soda and
A pinch of salt

125 ml (1/2 cup) sour cream
125 ml (1/2 cup) very hot water


Place the sugar and butter and cinnamon in a round (28 cm diametre) baking dish
Arrange the pitted cherries on top, in a single layer.


For the cake, combine everything well together, leaving the sour cream and hot water for the end, and pour over the cherries.   Bake in an oven, preheated to 180C (375F) for about 40 minutes, or until a tester inserted in the middle of the cake, comes out clean.  Cool a little and invert on a serving dish.  Serve with cream.
                                               

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