Cherries

Cherry is the juicy fruit of the Prunus Avium tree that flourishes throughout the temperate regions of the world.   The words “cherry”, “cerise”, “cereza” derive from the Greek “kerassos” and refer to one of the most popular summer fruits. 

Edible cherries fall into 3 categories, sweet, semi-sweet and sour and they can be either black or white. The sweet and semi-sweet kind can be eaten either fresh or cooked, while sour cherries make wonderful preserves and beverages, but unfortunately, they, both, have a very short growing season.

When we bought our house, so many years ago, we were delighted to find a Morello cherry tree and a white cherry tree (petrokerassia) in the garden.    We still recall, with nostalgia, the beauty of the blossomed trees in early spring and our craving for, and the utmost  pleasure of tasting the first luscious cherries of the year. 

CHERRY SOUP

Poland is the 1^st producer of cherries in the European Union.   This Polish cherry soup is made with beef stock and is thickened with whipped egg yolks and cream.   I prepare it with chicken stock and serve it with 

croutons.  Thank you Poland for the inspiration!

1½ litre (6 cups) tasty chicken stock

1 clove garlic, sliced

1 thin slice ginger

1 tsp whole pepper corns, salt

300 g (10 oz) sweet black cherries

Croutons for serving

Place the chicken stock in a large, heavy saucepan with the garlic, ginger and peppercorns and simmer for 12 minutes.    Add the cherries and simmer very gently for about 30 minutes or until the fruit is cooked.    Then pass the soup through a fine strainer, reserve the fruit and discard the spices. Taste and add a little salt if necessary.  

This is a tasty, dark red soup and I recommend it as a starter. Serve it with croutons and a few of the reserved cherries if you wish. 

BLACK FOREST CHERRY CAKE

This is a cake that I often used to bake when my children were teenagers and young adults.

Cake:

6 medium-sized eggs

300 g (1½ cup) sugar, a pinch of salt

Vanilla

130 g (1 cup) self-raising flour

45 g (about 1/3 cup) cocoa

1½ tsp baking powder

1 tbsp clarified butter (optional)

(Heat the butter very gently, remove the foam and spoon the clear butter into a bowl)

A little more for brushing the cake tin

Syrup:

375 ml (1½ cup) fresh orange juice

2-3 tbsp sugar

2 tbsp Kirsh

Filling:

One 425 g ( 14 oz +) tin of Morello cherries + syrup, e.i.  
(240 g/8 oz) strained cherries, thoroughly dried

Or the equal amount of fresh, pitted cherries poached in a light syrup, strained and dried

Topping:

500 ml (2 cups) thick cream

75 g (2½ oz) icing sugar

2 tbsp Kirsh

Garnish:

Chocolate curls

2-3 red Maraschino cherries

Preheat the oven to 180 C(350F) and brush a 28 cm (11 inch) round cake tin with clarified butter.

First prepare the cake.  Whip the eggs, sugar, salt and vanilla together until tripled in bulk.  Sift over the flour and cocoa mixture, a little at a time and gently fold in with a flexible spatula.  Finally add the clarified butter, if using.  Pour the batter into the prepared tin and bake, for 25-30 minutes or until a tester, inserted in the middle of the cake, comes out clean.  Run a knife around the rim of the cake, and turn it out on a rack, to cool

Meanwhile whip the cream with the icing sugar to the stiff peak stage.   Pour in the Kirsh and whip only until the liqueur is absorbed and refrigerate.

Cut the cake in two equal layers and place the one layer on a round serving dish. Sprinkle evenly with syrup and spread, sparingly, with whipped cream.  Arrange the poached Morello cherries on top.  Cover gently with the other layer of cake, sprinkle with syrup and cover the top and sides with the remaining whipped cream.  Gently press the chocolate curls into the sides and top of the cake and garnish with 3-4 maraschino cherries. Cover and refrigerate the cake until ready to serve.  

HOMEMADE CHERRY BRANDY

                                                

This is an easy homemade liqueur.  Don’t forget to shake the bottle daily.

1 ½ litres (6 cups) good quality brandy

1 ½ kg (3 lb) Morello cherries, stalks removed

1 kg (5 cups) caster sugar

2 sticks cinnamon and
6 cloves (both optional)

 Place the brandy in a large, dark bottle that will hold everything comfortably.   Add the cherries, sugar and the spices, if using, shake thoroughly and seal.  Set aside for a fortnight, shaking the bottle once a day.   Discard the spices, if using, and pour into prepared bottles.

CHERRY  LIQUEUR

This is a liqueur made with crushed cherries and any liquor of your choice, like votka, brandy or tsipouro.

1 kg (2 lb) sweet red cherries, pitted and crushed

1 litre (4 cups) of any liquor you like

350 g (an ample 11 oz) caster sugar

Place the crushed cherries in a large jar and pour in the liquor and seal well.   Allow the ingredients to ferment for 1 month in a sunny part of your kitchen.  

Strain the cherries through a fine sieve, with a double lining of cheesecloth and squeeze well, so as not to loose the flavours.   Pour back into the same jar, add the sugar and shake.  Leave the cherry liqueur in the jar for one week, shaking it every second day.

Pour into bottles, seal, and Chin Chin.

SOUR CHERRY SPOON SWEET AND SOUR CHERRY SYRUP

Once, in Greece, spoon sweets were offered with a glass of iced water, to welcome visitors to our homes, and they are part of our culinary culture.   Over the years, this tradition, slowly died out, and spoon-sweets are served, in this fashion, only in monasteries, a few homes and the fruit producing regions of the country.    

Naturally, spoons sweets are still prepared and bought, but they are, now, presented in different ways.   They’re served over yogurt and ice creams, they are used for preparing cakes and puddings or as a garnish for desserts.

Sour cherry spoon sweet and “Vissinatha” (sour cherry syrup), with which a refreshing soft drink is prepared, are, both. very popular in Greece.

1½ kg (3 lbs) sour cherries, washed, pitted and rinsed with

1.250 ml (5 cups) water

2 kg (4 lbs) sugar

2 tbsp lemon juice

125 ml (½ cup) liquid glucose

Place the cherries in alternating layers with the sugar, pour the water over and simmer gently, for 20 minutes, skimming the froth, thoroughly.   Remove from the heat and let cool, shaking the saucepan several times, so as to help the fruit to plump up. 

24 hours later, bring the cherries to the boil, add the lemon juice and glucose and simmer until the syrup thickens  If you have a sugar thermometer it should reach 105 C (220 F) degrees.   But if you don’t, like me, drop half tablespoonful of hot sauce onto a cold saucer, spread it and let it cool.  Draw the back of a spoon through the syrup, which, if thickened sufficiently, should not come together.

Ladle the cherries into sterilized jars, cover with syrup and seal.  The remaining syrup should also be stored in prepared bottles and sealed. 

CHERRY TART

This is a lovely dessert, with a crispy crust, a custard prepared with cherry juice and sweet white wine, topped with cherries poached with wine and sugar.

Pastry:

260 g (2 cups) self-raising flour

1 tsp baking powder

A pinch of salt

6 tbsp sugar

½ tbsp cinnamon

2 tbsp finely ground semolina

180 g (6 oz) butter

2 medium-sized eggs, whipped

1 kg (2 lb) sweet black cherries, pitted, juice and pits reserved ( please see below)

225 (¾ cup) sugar

1 liqueur glass Samos Nektar or any other sweet white wine

Custard:

125 ml (½ cup) cherry juice

250 ml (1 cup) Samos Nektar or any other sweet white wine

3 heaped tbsp cornflour diluted in

4 tbsp water

1 tsp cinnamon

½ tsp grated nutmeg

3 medium-sized eggs, lightly whipped with

A pinch of salt

250 ml (1 cup) or less thick cream

Light cherry syrup (please see below)

2 tbsp thickly ground roasted almonds mixed with
1 1/2 tbsp sugar

Prepare the pastry by mixing all the ingredients together into a soft, pliable dough.    With the palm of your hands press the dough, evenly, and line 30 cm (12 inch) tart dish.   Prick the dough all over, cover with baking parchment and beans, and bake blind for 15 minutes covered, and about 15 minutes more uncovered or until the pastry is crisp and golden brown.   Remove from the oven and cool.

Place the cherries with the sugar and wine in a saucepan and simmer gently for about 10 minutes and remove from the fire.  Stir several times to allow the fruit to absorb part of the syrup.  After 15 minutes strain the cherries and place on kitchen paper to dry, reserving the remaining light cherry syrup.

For the custard, first add the sweet wine into the reserved cherry juice and pits, stir well and strain.   There should be about 375 ml (1½ cups) liquid.  Mix all the ingredients for the custard, except the cream, together in a bowl and cook gently over simmering water, stirring continuously until the custard thickens.   Stir in half the amount of cream, simmer for 2 minutes more and remove from the fire to cool.   Stir the custard occasionally to prevent a skin forming.   Taste and add a little more sugar, if necessary. When it is cold it should keep its shape in a spoon.   Add more cream if the custard is too thick.

Sprinkle the almond/sugar mixture over the baked pastry case, spoon the custard, evenly, over, cover lavishly with the poached cherries and chill.  One hour before needed, remove for the fridge and serve with a glass of the same sweet wine that you used in the custard.

SPICY CHERRY JAM

This is neither a chutney nor a relish it’s just fruit cooked with spices and sugar until thick and delicious.

1 kg (2 lb) sweet white and black cherries, pitted and mashed

Sugar:  for every

250 ml (1 cup) cherry pulp use

187.5 ml (¾ cup) sugar

1 tsp salt

6 garlic cloves, sliced

3 heaped tsp grated ginger

1 tsp cinnamon

125 ml (½ cup) vinegar

125 ml (½ cup) sweet white wine

Place all the ingredients, except the wine, in a saucepan large enough to hold everything comfortably.   Simmer very gently until the fruit is cooked.

Sieve the cherries and syrup through a fine strainer, pushing with the back of a spoon to release all the fruit pulp, sprinkling with the wine to help the process.   Pour back into the saucepan and simmer until thick.  Taste and add more salt, sugar or vinegar, if necessary, and simmer for 2 minutes more.   Place the jam in sterilized jars and seal.   Serve with meat or cheese.

UPSIDE DOWN CHOCOLATE CHERRY CAKE

This is an interesting cake, not as attractive as its apple or pineapple counterpart, but different

 About 1 kg white cherries, pitted

3 tbsp melted butter

3 tbsp sugar

A pinch of cinnamon

Cake:
1 egg

200 g (1cup) sugar

125 g ( 1/2 cup) melted butter

Vanilla

195 g (1½ cup) self raising flour mixed with

40 g (almost ½ cup) cocoa

1 tsp baking powder

1tsp baking soda and

A pinch of salt

125 ml (1/2 cup) sour cream
125 ml (1/2 cup) very hot water

Place the sugar and butter and cinnamon in a round (28 cm diametre) baking dish

Arrange the pitted cherries on top, in a single layer.

For the cake, combine everything well together, leaving the sour cream and hot water for the end, and pour over the cherries.   Bake in an oven, preheated to 180C (375F) for about 40 minutes, or until a tester inserted in the middle of the cake, comes out clean.  Cool a little and invert on a serving dish.  Serve with cream.

                                               

Asparagus

Asparagus officinalis is a delectable vegetable that grows in most parts of Europe and other countries of the world with a temperate climate.   According to various sources, asparagus were highly valued in ancient Egypt, Syria, Greece and Rome, for their delicate taste and benefits to human health.  It is one of the first spring vegetables, nature’s promise and pledge for warmer, better days.

ASPARAGUS SOUP

           

           

                       

Greek asparagus are of an excellent quality.  You can use either the white or the green variety, for preparing this soup.

500 g (1 lb) fresh asparagus

1 clove garlic

1 onion, chopped

1½ litre (6 cups) chicken stock or more, if necessary

2 tbsp butter

2 tbsp all-purpose flour

1 bay leaf

250 ml (1 cup) milk

Salt and pepper

250 ml (1 cup) whipped cream, low fat if preferred, optional  

1 ½ tbsp parsley, finely chopped

Cut off the asparagus tips and set aside. Chop the tender part of the stalks and reserve.  Also chop and reserve the tough parts.

Bring the chicken stock to a boil and add 6-8 asparagus tips and simmer for 5-7 minutes, remove with a slotted spoon and reserve.  Add the chopped, tough stalks to the stock and cook for 25 minutes.  Remove the stalks and discard.

Add the remaining asparagus (tips and the tender stalks), onion and garlic to the stock, simmer for about 20 minutes or until the vegetables are tender, and set aside to cool.   Blend the vegetables and stock and sieve.  Return the soup to the saucepan and keep hot.   

 Melt the butter and stir in the flour, pepper and bay leaf, and cook gently for 2-3 minutes.  Add milk to the roux and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens.  Discard the bay leaf.  Mix the sauce with a cup of warm soup and sieve back into the saucepan and stir.  Correct the seasoning with salt and freshly ground white pepper, if necessary.  Simmer for 2-4 minutes more. Then add a little cream, if using, and heat without boiling.

Serve decorated with cream and the reserved asparagus tips.

 (Serves 6)

BOILED ASPARAGUS SALAD

                 

                     

Try this well-known classic in spring, when fresh asparagus are plentiful.

1 kg (2 lbs) white or green asparagus

Salt

1 bay leaf

Vinaigrette dressing, (see recipe below)

2 eggs, hard-boiled, whites and yolks finely chopped, separately (optional)

 Break off the hard ends of each stalk and peel off the hard skin towards the tips, and tie them in bundles.   Boil the asparagus, standing up, leaving the tips exposed, in salted water and a bay leaf, for 7-10 minutes or until just tender.   Drain well.  

  Serve, hot or cold, drizzled with the dressing and sprinkled with the boiled egg, if using. Serve the remaining vinaigrette in a sauce-boat.)

Vinaigrette:

½ -1 clove garlic, crushed (optional),

½ tsp salt

 ½ tsp mustard powder

1 tbsp white balsamic vinegar

1 tsp lemon juice or more, if preferred

6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Black pepper, freshly ground

Mix all the ingredients in a jam jar and shake well.  Use as much vinaigrette as you need, and store the rest in a jar in the refrigerator.  

WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED ASPARAGUS

                                        

When you next boil asparagus, try this sauce.   It is lighter than sauce Hollandaise You could, also, use it for asparagus “au gratin” .

500 g (1 lb) trimmed green or white asparagus, boiled with

1 small onion

1 clove of garlic

Salt and white peppercorns

375 ml (1 ½ cup) or more asparagus stock (discarding onion garlic and peppercorns)

3 tbsp butter

3-4 tbsp flour

½ bay leaf

2 tbsp grated San Mihalis, Gruyere or Parmesan cheese (optional)

125 ml (½ cup) cream, low fat if preferred

1 tbsp butter cut in small pieces

Salt and white pepper to taste

Heat the butter with the bay leaf.   Stir in the flour and cook for 4-5 minutes.  Then whisk in the warm asparagus stock and simmer gently until the sauce thickens and is thoroughly cooked.   Remove from the fire and add the cheese, if using, and the cream and stir well.   Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and white pepper, if needed.   Heat the sauce again but do not boil.  Swirl in the butter.   Serve with the hot asparagus.

(Makes about 2 cups)

ASPARAGUS 
AU GRATIN

This is a great treat for your family and friends and very easy to prepare. 

500 g (1 lb) white or green asparagus, parboiled for 5 minutes

20-25 thin slices smoked or boiled ham

A knob of butter for the baking dish

White Sauce (see above)

2-3 tbsp grated San Mihalis, Parmesan or Gruyere

Roll each asparagus stem with ham, and place side by side in buttered baking dish.  Mask with the white sauce and sprinkle with cheese.   Bake in an oven, preheated to 180 C (350 F)  for about 30 minutes or until  golden brown. 

GREEN ASPARAGUS TART

This is a tasty fist dish.   Four slices of smoked ham could be used instead of bacon.

Pastry:

250 g (½ lb) self-raising flour and a little extra if necessary

A pinch if salt

150 g (5 oz) iced butter, cubed

1 egg

1 tbsp brandy or more, if necessary

Filling:

½ kg (1 lb) green asparagus, hard parts snapped off and trimmed

A knob of butter

4 rashes of bacon, chopped, sautéed placed on kitchen paper to drain

2 tbsp dried bread crumbs, mixed with

2 tbsp of the same grated cheese used in the sauce

Sauce:

2 tbsp butter

1 bay-leaf

3 tbsp flour

500 ml (2 cups) hot milk

Asparagus pulp (see below)

Grated nutmeg

2 tbsp mild kasseri or Cheddar, thickly grated

2 eggs, separated, whites whipped to the soft peak stage with a pinch of salt
2 tbsp thick Greek yogurt

Salt, if necessary and freshly ground pepper

First prepare the pastry.  Mix flour and salt and rub in the flour until it resembles bread crumbs.  Add the egg and brandy and knead for 3-4 minutes until a smooth, rather soft dough is obtained.  Cover and ice for at least 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, simmer the asparagus in salted water, until cooked but still slightly crunchy. Then strain and pat dry.   Blend the hard parts of the asparagus, with a hand blender and sieve, pressing with the back of a spoon, in order to extract all the juices and set aside.   There should be about 250 ml (1 cup) thick asparagus pulp.   Also sauté the asparagus spears in butter.

For the sauce, melt the butter, add the bay leaf and sift in the flour, stirring for 3-4 minutes, over gentle heat, in order to prevent the taste of uncooked flour.   Pour in the hot milk in portions, stirring vigorously until the sauce is smooth and thick.   Discard the bay leaf and add the asparagus pulp and simmer stirring for 2-3 minutes more, fold in the nutmeg and the cheese and remove from the fire to cool.   Mix the egg yolks with the yogurt and add them to the cool sauce.   Taste and add a little salt if necessary and freshly ground pepper.    Softly fold in the egg whites.

Roll out the pastry, thinly, and line a 30 cm (12 inch) buttered, round tart dish.   Prick the pastry all over with a fork and sprinkle with the dried breadcrumb/grated cheese mixture.   Scatter the bacon on top and place the sautéed asparagus tips evenly over.   Finally spoon the sauce over and level the surface.   Bake in an oven, preheated to 180 C (350 F), for about   35-40 minutes, until golden and puffy.  Serve with a green salad.

ASPARAGUS AND CHICKEN WITH A CHINESE TOUCH

This is a comforting dish my husband and I used to often prepare, during the asparagus season.  Using frozen or tinned asparagus can be equally successful.

500 g (1 lb) fresh green asparagus, trimmed and parboiled for 5 minutes

2 chicken breasts, cubed

2 tbsp corn oil

½ - 1 tbsp grated ginger

2-3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

A little salt and pepper

2 carrots, scraped and cut into julienne strips and sautéed

750 ml (3 cups) hot chicken stock

1 tbsp soya sauce

A few drops chili sauce, optional

1-2 tbsp cornflour, mixed with

125 ml (½ cup) cold water

½ tsp sesame seed oil

Sauté the ginger and garlic in corn oil, for 2 minutes, and remove.

 Cook the chicken in the same wok for 3 minutes, over high heat.  Add the sautéed  ginger and garlic, mix well together and pour in enough chicken stock, to cover.  Lower the heat, cover the wok and simmer gently for 10 minutes or until the chicken is thoroughly cooked.  Add the soya sauce, a little more chicken stock and the chili sauce, if using.  Taste and add a little more salt and pepper, if necessary. 

Arrange the sautéed carrots and the parboiled asparagus with the chicken, and simmer 2-3 minutes more.  Pour in the corn flour solution and stir for a few minutes until the sauce thickens slightly.   Sprinkle with sesame oil and swirl.   I always use Greek sesame oil, which is excellent and less pungent than the oriental kind.

Serve with noodles or steamed rice or, if you’re not a purist, with any pasta of your choice, even with mashed potatoes.