Curry Lunch

Next Sunday, our family and friends are coming over for a curry lunch.   Needless to say that the dishes, whose recipes are given below, will never be quite as good as the ones we enjoyed at friends’ homes in Pakistan and India.

 

         We shall, also, never forget the wonderful curry buffet-lunches, at a seaside hotel on Malindi Beach, near Mombasa.  The buffets were always beautifully decorated with garlands of colourful flowers and striking centre-pieces with tropical fruit, interspersed with the most tantalising curry dishes and the tastiest trimmings imaginable.

         Before starting to cook an Indian dish one should have at least two recipes, Garam Masala, a mixture of spices, and Ghee, Indian clarified butter. 

GARAM  MASALA

30 g (1 oz) green cardamom pods

2 small sticks cinnamon

4 tbsp black pepper corns

1 tbsp cumin seeds

1 tbsp coriander seeds

4 whole cloves

1 tbsp grated nutmeg

             Preheat the oven to 100 C (225 F).  Spread the spices in a shallow roasting tin and roast for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Do not let them burn.  Snap the cardamoms and place the seeds in a bowl. Break the cinnamon sticks into small pieces.  Mix all the spices together in the bowl and blend, in small quantities, into fine powder.  Place in an airtight jar and store at room temperature, for 2 months at the most.

GHEE

          I will give you a recipe for clarified butter.  I think the difference between clarified butter and ghee, is that the ghee sediments are slightly browned.  That might not be the only difference.

         Take any amount of butter you please, melt over very low heat and remove from the fire.  Skim off the foam and spoon the clear butter into a sterilised jar. Discard the sediments. That’s all.

         

            We have decided to prepare Samosas and Curry Puffs as appetizers.  Two main courses, Tandouri Chicken and Chicken Curry, accompanied by Shahjahani Biryani, a spicy saffron rice with lamb, and various trimmings.

                                                          SAMOSAS

          This is my version of making samosas.   I don’t use the traditional dough (recipe given below) because if I do, the samosas should be fried just before serving. I use small, ready-made puff pastry rounds, which I fill with  potato filling, join the ends together and bake in a moderate oven preheated to 180 C (350 F) for about 30 minutes  until puffed and golden.

TRADITIONAL DOUGH

300 g (10 oz) all-purpose flour

2 tbsp vegetable oil or clarified butter and vegetable oil in equal amounts

1 scant tsp salt

A pinch of sugar

About 125 ml (½ cup) water

           Rub the flour with the oil or butter/oil mixture and salt together, until they resemble fine bread crumbs. Pour enough water over, knead vigorously and gather into a ball and keep kneading until the dough becomes smooth and elastic, about 5-8 minutes.  Brush the dough with oil, cover and leave at room temperature for 30 minutes at least. Preheat the oven to 100 C (about 220 F).

          Then take small pieces of dough and roll into small circles and cut in half.  Seal the straight edges together shaping small cones.  Place a small spoonful of filling into the cones and seal the top.  Then fry the samosas, without crowding them, until golden on all sides and transfer them to a baking dish, lined with kitchen paper and keep warm in the oven.  Serve immediately accompanied by any relish or chutney of your choice.

POTATO FILLING

2 large potatoes, boiled, peeled and cubed

1 tbsp vegetable oil

1 tsp cumin seeds

1 onion, finely chopped

1 heaped tbsp grated fresh ginger
The seeds of 4 green cardamom pods, crushed

1 tsp curry powder

60 g (2 oz) frozen peas, defrosted

Salt and freshly ground pepper

A pinch of sugar

2 tbsp water or vegetable stock or more if nessary
½ cup finely chopped parsley

1 tsp garam masala

1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper, optional

         Saute the cumin seeds in vegetable oil until they begin to burst.  Then add the onion and ginger and cook, stirring until the onions are soft and golden.  Add the curry powder and the cardamom seeds and stir for 1-2 minutes, add the peas, potatoes, salt, pepper, sugar and water or vegetable stock and simmer, covered, until the peas are tender.  Add the parsley and cook a few minutes more.  Reduce the heat, taste and add salt if necessary, stir in the garam masala, taste again and add the Cayenne pepper, if using.

 CURRY PUFFS

30 small puff pastry rounds, defrosted but iced

FILLING

500 g (1 lb) minced veal

1 tbsp olive oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 garlic, squashed

1 tsp grated ginger

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

A pinch of sugar

½ tsp turmeric

½ tsp ground coriander

½ tsp ground cinnamon

¼ tsp ground cardamom seeds

½ tsp garam masala

¼ tsp Cayenne pepper, optional

250 ml (1 cup) water or vegetable or meat stock

1-2 tbsp of dried breadcrumbs

          Saute the onion, garlic and ginger in olive oil, stirring constantly for 5-7 minutes until the onions are soft. Add the minced meat and continue stirring until the meat shows no trace of pink and crumbles. Add salt, pepper, sugar and spices and cook for a few minutes more.  Then pour in the water or stock, lower the heat and simmer, covered, until the meat is thoroughly cooked and dry.   Taste for seasoning and adjust, if necessary. Stir in the dried breadcrumbs and set aside to cool. You could make an easier filling for curry puffs with minced meat, onion, garlic, ginger, 2 tsps of a good quality medium hot curry powder, salt, pepper, and 1 tsp of garam masala only, without using all the other spices mentioned above. It's also very good.

          Place a small puff pastry round on a plate, add a teaspoon of filling in the middle, moisten the edges with water, fold over and seal in the filling, pressing well with your fingers. Continue until you fill and seal all the puff pastry rounds.  Arrange them on baking trays, lined with baking parchment and refrigerate for 12-15 minutes.  You could brush them with egg-wash if you want.   Bake in an oven preheated to 190 C (375 F) for 25-30 minutes or until puffed and golden.

       CHICKEN CURRY

  

           Purists will be shocked with this recipe. The sauce is made with the usual spices and condiments, but also with masses of fruit, even tinned fruit, and chicken stock.  Though contrary to tradition, the results are excellent. This recipe is equally good made with pork fillet.

1½ kg (3 lbs) chicken breasts, skinned, boned, trimmed and cubed

A little salt, mixed with

½ tsp ginger powder and

¼ tsp white pepper

3 tbsp olive oil

½ - 1 tsp clarified butter

3 large onions finely chopped

3 cloves of garlic, crushed

1 piece of ginger, peeled and sliced

2 heaped tsp medium hot, good quality curry powder

½ tsp ground cardamom seeds

½ tsp ground coriander

½ tsp ground cinnamon

½ tsp Cayenne pepper

½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg

1 bay leaf

800g – 1 kg (1 lb 10 oz – 2 lbs) fresh apples or peaches, peeled, cored and thinly

                                                                                                                       sliced   

500 ml (2 cups) tasty, hot chicken stock or more if necessary

Salt, sugar and honey, according to taste

1 packet desiccated coconut

Boiling water to cover

          Sprinkle the chicken cubes with the salt and ginger mixture.   Saute, in batches, in olive oil and clarified butter, until slightly browned on all sides and transfer to a dish.

          Remove all but 2 tbsp of the oil and butter mixture and add the onion and a little water and cook gently, stirring occasionally until the onion is cooked and slightly coloured.   Then add the garlic and ginger and cook for a few minutes more.   Mix all the spices together and sprinkle over the onion mixture and stir and cook for 3-5 minutes.   Then add the fruit, salt and pepper, lower the heat and cook gently, covered, stirring from time to time, until the fruit resembles a thick puree. Add the hot chicken stock, stir, to avoid sticking and simmer for 5 minutes more. .  Remove the ginger slices, blend the sauce with a hand blender, taste and add the sugar and honey, and very little salt if necessary.

          Return the chicken to the sauce, bring to the boil and simmer, covered, stirring from time to time, until the chicken is tender.  Taste once more and add salt, sugar, a little Cayenne pepper if necessary.   Cool and refrigerate until needed.   I usually make this dish the previous day as it really improves with time.

         The next day, place the desiccated coconut in a saucepan and pour boiling water over to cover, and leave for 1-2 hours to infuse. Heat the chicken curry, strain the coconut milk over and stir.   Taste for seasoning and adjust if necessary.  It should be perfect.

SHAHJAHANI  BIRYANI

           This elaborate, festive rice dish is made with either lamb or chicken, garnished with roasted nuts and raisins.  In India, this dish would be further decorated with small leaves of edible silver.

1½ kg (3 lbs) lamb from the leg, trimmed of excess fat and cubed

½ tsp saffron threads soaked in

250 ml (1 cup) boiling water

60 g (2 oz) unsalted cashew nuts

60 g (2 oz) almonds, blanched and sliced in three

60 g (2 oz) unsalted pistachio nuts

60 g (2 oz) sultanas, or seedless raisins

½ tsp clarified butter

Salt

2 tbsp vegetable oil

1 tsp clarified butter

2 tbsp ginger, peeled and finely grated

3 garlic cloves, finely sliced

1 tsp cumin seeds

¼ tsp Cayenne pepper

1 cinnamon stick

6 cloves

6 black peppercorns

1 heaped tsp green cardamom seeds

½ tsp nutmeg, freshly grated

500 ml (2 cups) or more hot chicken stock

200 g (1 small tub) yogurt

200 g (6½ oz) full cream

3 cups Basmati rice

1½ litres (6 cups) tasty chicken stock + the saffron infusion

1 tbsp butter

          Rub the nuts and sultanas or raisins with clarified butter, with the palms of your hands and arrange, in separate piles, on a roasting dish, lined with parchment.  Sprinkle with a little salt and roast in a moderate oven preheated to 180 C (350 F) for about 15 minutes until the nuts turn pale golden.  Be careful of the raisins as they burn easily.  Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

        Place the oil and clarified butter in a large saucepan and add the ginger, garlic, cumin seeds and Cayenne pepper and stir constantly for a couple of minutes and transfer to a small bowl. Then add the meat, in batches, and cook until well browned all over. Remove all but 2 tbsp of oil and return the meat and the ginger/garlic mixture to the saucepan, sprinkle with salt, add the remaining spices, tied in a piece of cheese cloth, and cook and stir for 2-3 minutes more.  Then pour in enough hot chicken stock to cover the meat, keeping the spice bundle submerged.   Simmer, covered, for about 20 minutes or until the lamb is tender. Remove from the fire and keep hot.  I use the yogurt and cream only when preparing the dish with chicken. Of course you can do as you prefer.

        Meanwhile cook the rice in the chicken stock and saffron water, according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Then add the butter and keep hot 

       Pile half of the rice in a hot pyrex dish, spoon half the amount of lamb, evenly, on top and sprinkle with roasted nuts and raisins.  Then, carefully repeat the procedure, drizzling the top with any cooking liquid left.  Put a cinnamon stick in the middle of the dish, cover with cling film and keep hot in a very moderate oven.  Serve with the remaining roasted nuts and raisins.

                                                  

TANDOURI CHICKEN

          Tandouri is a cylindrical clay oven, in which this dish is traditionally cooked.   If you are not lucky enough to possess one, you could grill the chicken or roast it in the oven, in the marinade, which is much easier, and more convenient.

4 chicken breasts, skinned, trimmed and cut in half

Salt, freshly ground black pepper

Lime or lemon juice

Marinade:

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 tbsp finely grated ginger

4 cloves garlic

1 tbsp lime or lemon juice

4 tbsp olive oil

500 g (1 medium tub) yogurt

1 tsp turmeric

1½ tsp ground coriander

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg

¼ tsp garam masala

¼ tsp Cayenne pepper

¼ tsp black pepper

1 tsp salt

Red food colouring

          Blend the onion, garlic cloves and ginger, add the lime or lemon juice and blend to a smooth paste.  Place the blended ingredients in a bowl, add all the remaining marinade ingredients and mix thoroughly.

         Make 3 deep slashes on each chicken piece, sprinkle with salt, pepper and lime or lemon juice.

         Spoon half the marinade evenly in a large pyrex dish, place the chicken pieces on top in a single layer, rubbing the marinade into the slashes and cover with the remaining marinade.  Cover the dish with cling film and refrigerate for 24 hours.

       
         Either grill the chicken or roast it in the marinade, covered, in a moderately hot oven preheated to 200 C (400 F) for 40.  Then uncover and roast for 15 minutes more.

     Serve, sliced and garnished with lime or lemon wedges and chopped fresh coriander or parsley.

  

      The trimmings for a curry meal are Pappers or  Puppadums as they are called in S. India,  Chapatis, 2 Chutneys at least, a yogurt sauce like Raita, a Lentil or Chick Pea Salad, Puris, Spicy Dhal, Chilli-Pineapple Relish,  Banana and Coconut, Onion and Lime Salad  etc. etc.