AUTUMN SALADS

By Tjalf Sparnaay

By Tjalf Sparnaay

By Tjalf Sparnaay

Salads stimulate the palate and kindle the appetite.   They are tangy and flavoursome and should be presented and served with special care, and, as Elizabeth David said in her famous  book French Provincial Cooking,  “each dish should look as if it was prepared for the first time especially for you.”

Although salads are often served as a first course, they can also be offered as an accompaniment to fish, seafood, meat and poultry dishes.  In France, a plain salad is served after the main dish to “refresh and cleanse the palate for the cheese and dessert that follow”.  Needless to say that a large salad can be the main course for a light lunch.

The word salad derives from the Latin “herba salata” salted herbs.  This indicates that that the first salads must have been vegetables, freshly picked from the garden, seasoned with salt and eaten raw. Such a salad is the well-known French crudités, a dish of raw vegetables, which is very popular.

In classical Rome, salads became more ornate.  According to the Roman epicure, Marcus Gavius Apicius, various raw and cooked vegetables were sprinkled with fresh and dry herbs, drizzled with olive oil and vinegar and seasoned with an extract of salt fish called “liquamen”.   The dressing was similar to vinaigrette as known today, and liquamen is similar to salted anchovies that are served with many contemporary salads.

Vegetables still being the main ingredient of salads, mixed with small pieces of fish or seafood, meat or poultry, dressed with simple or elaborate dressings like vinaigrette, lemon and cream sauce and mayonnaise could excite and satisfy the most demanding of diners.  So let us all enjoy at least one delicious, large salad a day.

There are, obviously, innumerous salad recipes, here are several which I hope you will enjoy. 

                    

              A SALAD WITH LETTUCE, CHERRY TOMATOES, AVOCADOS    

                                                    AND PINE NUTS

                  

The dressing for this salad thickens and tastes like mayonnaise.  It keeps well in the fridge for about 3 days.

2 large cos lettuces, the inner tender leaves only, torn into bite-sized pieces

2 avocados, peeled, pitted, diced and drenched with lemon juice

12 cherry tomatoes, preferably from Santorini, halved

Salad Dressing:

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 tbsp lemon juice

3 tbsp evaporated or fresh milk

½ tsp Dijon mustard

Salt and pepper to taste

Stir thoroughly until the sauce thickens

2 tbsp pine nuts, lightly roasted

In a large salad bowl layer the lettuce, avocados and the cherry tomatoes.  Drizzle with salad dressing, sprinkle with pine nuts, toss and serve.

         

              A GREEN SALAD WITH ORANGE WALNUTS AND BLUE CHEESE

You could alternatively use flaked San Mihalis or Parmesan any other hard, tasty cheese, instead of blue cheese for this salad.

1 large cos lettuce, tender parts only, torn into bite-sized pieces

1 bunch of rocket, cut into bite-sized pieces

2 spring onions, finely chopped

1 large navel orange, peeled and filleted

75 g (½ cup) walnuts, roughly chopped

30 g (¼ cup) blue cheese

Dressing:

125 ml (½ cup) extra virgin olive oil

125 ml (½ cup) orange juice

1 scant tbsp honey

1-2 tbsp wine vinegar or lemon juice

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

¼ tsp salt or according to taste

Freshly ground black pepper

Beat all ingredients for the dressing thoroughly.  Taste and adjust seasoning.  It can be stored in the refrigerator for 24 hours at the most.

 In a large salad bowl combine the salad greens with the orange sections, spring onions and walnuts.  Drizzle with 3-4 tbsp dressing (or more if preferred), sprinkle with cheese and toss.

                                      

                     

                                              AVOCADO SALAD OR DIP

                                           

A delightful salad.

2 medium-sized avocados, peeled and mashed with a little lemon juice

½ green pepper, finely chopped

½ red pepper, finely chopped

1 medium-sized tomato, peeled, seeded and finely chopped

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 tbsp lemon juice

1 tbsp vinegar

1 tsp white balsamic vinegar

Cayenne pepper to taste

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Mix all the ingredients together, taste and adjust the seasoning.  Serve in a bowl with tortillas or chips.

                                               BAKED ONION SALAD

A lovely salad if you like onions.

850 g (1 ¾) medium-sized onions, unpeeled

4 tbsp boiled rice

200 g (7 oz) ground walnuts

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 tbsp tarragon vinegar

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Roast the onions in an oven preheated to 190 C (375 F) for about 1½ hours or until tender.  Cool, peel and chop finely.

Combine the rice with the onions and walnuts and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste, drizzle with olive oil and vinegar, toss gently but thoroughly and serve piled on a shallow dish. 

                                                        FIG SALAD

A delicious salad.

1 kg (2 lb) ripe figs, peeled

4 thin slices of Ifandis ham cut into julienne strips

2 tbsp fresh mint, finely chopped

Lemon juice to taste

200 g (1 tub) Greek yoghurt

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cut the figs in half from the stem side then make two slashes in the form of a cross and press them on the sides to open the incisions.  Arrange them on a serving dish. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

Crush half the mint leaves in the lemon juice and slowly stir in the yoghurt, taste for salt and pepper and adjust accordingly.

Sprinkle the figs with half the ham strips, spoon over the yoghurt sauce and serve garnished with the remaining ham and mint.

                                             GREEK WILD GREENS

                                                            Horta

Horta with

Lemon Wedges

Here is a brief note on Greek Horta (different kinds of wild edible plants).   A mixture of these plants or a single variety is boiled and served with olive oil and vinegar or lemon juice and eaten as a salad.

Some people, when they go for an outing in the country, collect these delicacies from the fields or mountains, where the best horta come from.   Of course, the village women (and men) are experts and in the past, horta was an important staple of their diet. 

There is a great variety of these horta.   The following is a list of the most common ones:

1.    Dandelions  (Agrio Radiki)

2.    Wild Nettles (Tsouknithes)

3.    Charlock or Field Mustard (Vrouves)

4.    Wild Salsify (Trapogon)

5.    Rocket, (Roca)

6.   Amaranth (Vlita) also cultivated

7.   Borage (Pouradza)

8.   Mallow (Moloha)

9.   Wild Fennel (Maratho)

10. Wild Lettuce (Pikralida)

11. Purslane (Adrakla or Glistridha), eaten raw as well

12. Sorrel (Lapatha)

13. Bulbs of Wild Grape Hyacinth (Volvoi), used for pickles

14. Samphire (Critamon), used for pickles

15. Bulbs of Wild Orchids (used for a drink called Salepi)

16. Mediterranean Hartwort (Kafkalithres)

17.  (Almirikia)

18. Purslane (Hirovotina)

In Greece, we also make salads of boiled, cultivated vegetables, such as cauliflower, broccoli, chard, courgettes, and spinach.  These vegetables are just boiled in salted water, strained and served with olive oil and vinegar or lemon juice.

                                                

                                BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER SALAD

   

                                  

This is a large, colourful salad.

1 broccoli cut in florets

1 cauliflower cut in florets

1 green, 1 red and 1 yellow peppers, trimmed, seeded, thickly sliced and halved

2 carrots peeled and diced

1 garlic clove, sliced

Salt, pepper

Sesame oil, (not the oriental kind)

1 tbsp finely chopped parsley, and

1 tbsp roasted sesame seeds for garnishing

Salad Dressing:

2 tbsp white balsamic vinegar

5 tbsp sesame oil (not the oriental kind)

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1 scant tbsp honey

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Lemon juice, if necessary

1 tbsp sesame seeds, roasted

2 tbsp parsley, chopped

Place the first four ingredients in a baking tin, lined with baking parchment, season with salt and pepper, drizzle with sesame oil and roast in an oven preheated to 180 C (350 F), until the vegetables are tender.   Arrange the vegetables attractively on a flat salad dish.     

For the dressing blend the vinegar with the mustard, honey, salt and pepper and then add the remaining oil gradually, until the vinaigrette thickens.  Taste for seasoning and adjust with more salt, pepper and lemon juice, if necessary.  Drizzle the vegetables with the dressing, cover and refrigerate.  One hour before serving remove the salad from the refrigerator and allow it to reach room temperature. Serve sprinkled with the sesame seeds and parsley.

                                       

                                       GRATED BEETROOT SALAD

                                                   

         

This is between a salad and a pickle.   You must experiment with the amount of orange juice, salt and vinegar used, to bring it exactly to your taste.

½ kg (1 lb) beetroot, baked in foil, peeled and coarsely grated

Juice of two oranges

1 tbsp lemon juice

1 tbsp tarragon vinegar

2 tsp honey

½ -1 tbsp grated orange rind

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 tbsp or less olive oil scented with garlic, (please see recipe below)

1 round-heart lettuce or 1 batavian endive

2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped

 Mix the juices and vinegar with the honey, salt, pepper and grated orange rind.  Pour over the beetroot, toss well, taste for seasoning and adjust with salt, pepper and lemon juice if needed, and chill.

When ready to serve, line a flat salad bowl with crisp lettuce leaves.   Pour 3 tbsp olive oil over the beetroot and mix well.    Spoon it over the lettuce leaves, drizzle with the rest of the olive oil and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

Olive oil scented with garlic:

2 garlic cloves, sliced

250 ml (1 cup) olive oil

Place the garlic and olive oil in a jar and keep in a dark place for 5 days.  

Then remove the garlic and use for salads.

                                 GREEN AUBERGINE SALAD OR DIP

           

     

                                 

This is an aubergine salad from the Ionian Islands

2 large aubergines

3-tbsp lemon juice

2 tbsp vinegar

2 tsp Dijon mustard

50 g (1 cup) finely chopped parsley

1 egg yolk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

200 ml (1 tub) strained yoghurt

60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil

Grill the aubergines over direct heat and turn occasionally.   Hold by the stem and peel upwards.  Rinse and squeeze out excess moisture with the palms of your hands. 

Pour lemon juice over, and then let drain for about an hour and squeeze again   Combine all the ingredients, except the olive oil, and blend for about a minute.   Add the yoghurt and a little olive oil and blend a few seconds more.   Season the salad with salt and pepper to taste and drizzle with remaining olive oil.  Serve with small rusks or crudités.

                                                        LENTIL SALAD

         

             

                              

                                              

This salad can be eaten hot or cold, over crisp lettuce leaves.

¼ kg (1/2 lb) brown lentils

1 bay leaf

Dressing:

1 tbsp vinegar

½ tbsp balsamic vinegar

1 tsp mustard with honey

4-5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

½ tsp fresh thyme leaves

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped

(Whip all the ingredients together)

Boil the lentils with the bay leaf until just done then drain well, rinse in cold water.  Drizzle with the dressing and toss gently.  Then taste for seasoning and adjust accordingly.

                                  LETTUCE AND TUNNY FISH SALAD

                                            

A very easy and light meal

1 Cos lettuce, shredded

2 spring onions, finely sliced

1 tsp chopped dill

225 g (7.5 oz) or more tunny fish, tinned in water, strained and flaked

Sauce:

200 g (6.5 oz) yoghurt, low fat if preferred

4 tbsp light mayonnaise

Salt and pepper to taste

1 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp parsley, chopped

First, prepare the sauce.   Combine the yoghurt, mayonnaise, salt, pepper and olive oil and mix well together.  Taste for seasoning and adjust if necessary, and reserve.

Place the lettuce, spring onions and dill in a glass bowl and toss until well mixed.    Arrange the flaked tunny fish on top to cover the surface.  Spread the yoghurt/mayonnaise sauce, evenly, over the tunny fish and sprinkle with parsley and freshly ground pepper.   Chill for about 1-2 hours before serving.

                                                MACEDONIAN SALAD

This is, actually, a French salad.

3 carrots, scraped and finely grated

¼ white cabbage, finely shredded

¼ red cabbage, finely shredded

4 radishes, trimmed and finely chopped

1 small beetroot, peeled and finely grated

¼ cucumber, peeled and finely grated

60 g (2 oz) Kalamata olives, stoned

125 g (40 oz) mushrooms, finely sliced

2 apples, peeled, cored and sliced

6 walnuts, shelled

1 celery head, trimmed, and finely sliced

4 gherkins, finely sliced

Vinaigrette to taste

1½ tbsp chopped parsley

½ tbsp chopped chives

Mix together the grated and shredded vegetables, the olives, mushrooms, apples, walnuts, celery and gherkins.   Arrange the salad on a bed of lettuce.   Pour the dressing over and sprinkle with parsley and chives.  Serve immediately. 



               

                                                   POTATO SALAD

               

This salad is lovely with grilled fish, meat or poultry and a green salad

½ kg (1 lb) small waxy potatoes

2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped

½ cup sweet gherkins, finely chopped

1 tbsp capers, soaked in water to remove excess salt

1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped, or

2-3 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped

4-5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 tbsp vinegar

1 tbsp white balsamic vinegar (optional)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Boil the potatoes in salted water in their skins until just done.    Do not overcook.   Strain in a colander and leave to cool slightly before peeling.     Cut the potatoes into cubes, place in a bowl and mix with the other ingredients.   Taste and adjust seasoning.

  

                                        

                                 RED BEAN AND TUNNY FISH SALAD

                                

This is a substantial salad and very easy to prepare.  

2 tins red kidney beans

2 tins tunny fish

2 tbsp celery, chopped

1 small onion, or

2 spring onions, chopped

2 tbsp green or red pepper, finely chopped

2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped

2 tbsp lemon juice

4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Rinse the beans in water and drain well.    Discard the oil from the tunny fish.   Mix all the ingredients together and taste and adjust seasoning.  Serve with tomato wedges, sprinkled lightly with salt and chopped basil.

  

                                                 RUSSIAN SALAD

This is a light version of the famous Russian salad.

Sauce:

3 large boiled potatoes, peeled and mashed

2 hard-boiled egg yolks, mashed

1 tsp mustard powder

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

 2 ½ tbsp extra virgin olive oil or a little more is preferred

Cider vinegar to taste

200 g (1 small tub) Greek yoghurt

Salad:

250 g (½ lb) carrots, scraped, cubed and boiled in salted water and drained

250 g (½ lb) beetroot, boiled in salted water drained, peeled and cubed
125 g ( 4 oz) green peas_

½ cup parsley leaves, chopped

2 tbsp finely chopped sweet gherkins

2 tbsp capers

Olive oil

A little vinegar

Lettuce leaves and

Extra chopped parsley for garnish

Blend the egg yolks with mustard powder, salt and start adding olive oil and the mashed potatoes and cider vinegar, until you reach the desired taste.  Then add the yoghurt and blend once more, re-taste and adjust seasoning, if necessary.

Combine the carrots, beetroot, gherkins, capers, parsley leaves, and sprinkle with  olive oil and a little vinegar, it shouldn’t need any salt.

Then ladle a little sauce into a glass salad bowl, cover evenly with 1/3 of the salad and proceed in the same manner until all the ingredients halve finished. The sauce should be the top layer, sprinkled with chopped parsley.  Cover the bowl with cling film and refrigerate until ready to serve.

                                                 SALAD FROM NICE

  

There are many ways of preparing a salade Niçoise ,  It can be as elaborate or as frugal as you wish, but very tasty if seasoned with imagination.

1 large cos lettuce, trimmed, washed, dried and separated into leaves

2 cups potato salad please see above

15 cherry tomatoes

360 g (12 oz ) French beans, boiled and sprinkled with vinaigrette and iced

12 anchovy fillets packed in oil, patted dry

2 x 250 g (1 lb) tunny fish in olive oil, drained and broken into pieces

4 hard-boiled eggs, cooled, peeled and quartered lengthwise

2 heaped tbsp Greek olives, stoned

1 heaped tsp capers

2 tbsp chopped parsley

Vinaigrette to taste

And salt and pepper to taste

Line a shallow salad bowl with lettuce leaves, spoon the potato salad evenly over and garnish attractively with cherry tomatoes, French beans, anchovy fillet, tunny fish, hard-boiled eggs, olives and capers.   Season with a little salt on the eggs only, freshly ground black pepper, sprinkle with parsley and drizzles with vinaigrette.

                                                VINAIGRETTE

2 tbsp tarragon vinegar

Salt to taste

2 tbsp Brava mustard

6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Mix vinegar and salt well together.  Add the mustard and the olive oil in a fine stream and keep on stirring until the dressing emulsifies.

                                   WHITE AND RED CABBAGE SALAD

This is a crunchy salad with a sweet and sour taste.

3 cups finely shredded white cabbage

1 cup finely shredded red cabbage

1 cup, trimmed and very finely sliced tender celery stalks

2 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped

1 cup parsley, finely chopped

Dressing:

62.5 ml (¼ cup) peanut butter

2 tbsp tarragon vinegar

2 tbsp lemon juice

1 tbsp soy sauce

2 tbsp honey

2 tbsp sugar

2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

1 tbsp peeled and grated fresh ginger

Salt if necessary and

¼ tsp Cayenne pepper or less if preferred

Olive oil

Place the vegetables, in a salad bowl and mix very well together.   Mix all the dressing ingredients except the olive oil well together. Taste for seasoning and adjust accordingly, pour over the vegetables and toss thoroughly.  Serve drizzled with a little olive oil.   

Santorini by Chistophoros Asimis

                                             

           

   

GLOBAL WARMING ALARM

Goddard Institute of Space Studies' Graph of the Increase of Global Temperatures 

Since prehistoric times, the Earth was either warm or cold periodically.  Climate changed when the planet received smaller or larger amounts of sunlight due to sudden shifts in earth’s orbit or when the sun’s energy waxed or wained.

But since the mid-1920s another factor has influenced the world’s climates, the human factor.   Global warming has increased very rapidly over the past century due to greenhouse gases released by people burning fossil fuels, such as crude oil, coal, and natural gas.   The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change’s (IPCC) Fifth Assessment Report concludes:  “It is extremely likely that human influence has been the dominant cause of global warming since the mid-20^th century.”

The emission of greenhouse gases, which are carbon dioxide, methane and nitrous oxide, gradually poison the earth’s atmosphere.  The results are global warming, the rising of sea levels, frequent extreme weather conditions such as heatwaves, the expansions of deserts and considerable surface temperature increases in the Arctic.  All the above contribute to the melting of glaciers, permafrost and sea ice, also, high temperatures bring either more rain and snowfall or drought and wildfires.

Climate change will certainly diminish the production of crops, lessening food supplies.  Also, rising sea levels may flood coastal areas and thus force the abandonment of many seaside cities.  Environmental change will surely extinguish or relocate many species, as their ecosystems change, such as those that inhabit coral reefs, mountains and the Arctic.

Unfortunately, because the gasses continue existing in the atmosphere, climate changes and their effects will persist for many centuries more, even if the greenhouse emissions are stopped. According to Wikipedia  “possible responses to climate warming include mitigation by emission reduction, adaptation to these effects and maybe climate engineering."

Every country in the world are members of the United Nations Framework  Correction of Climate Change (UNFCCC) and they have agreed that deep cuts in emissions are absolutely necessary and that global warming should be limited well below 2 degrees Celsius (3.6 degrees Fahrenheit).

The September 2019 strikes against climate change known as Global Week for Future are a series of international strikes and protests against climate change and global warming.  These will culminate, on the 27^th September, with the United Nation Climate Change Summit together with a full week, from the 20^th to the 27^th September, of international strikes for a proposed worldwide climate strike, called the Earth Strike.

According to Wikipedia and the press, the protests will take place across 4.500 locations, in 150 countries.    The 20^th of September protests were the largest climate strikes in world history.  The organisers reported that over 4 million people participate in the strikes, worldwide.   In Greece, according to Mrs Natalia Tsoukala, people protested across the nation, the largest protests being in Athens.   Students holding placards with humorous and provocative messages protested against climate change at Syntagma Square.  While participating in the worldwide student movement called Fridays for Future, they protested against the inadequate response to climate change by world leaders.  

Greek Students Holding Placards Against Inadequate Response of World Leaders to Climate Warming 

So let us all help as individuals, together with governments and institutions, to save our earth from the dangers of climate change so that the generations to come will live in a healthy atmosphere, free from greenhouse gases and other toxic elements. 

Unfortunately, two people were, recently, caught in a severe lightning storm in the Peloponnese and were killed by a thunderbolt.  These deadly elements are more frequent, lately, and they could be instigated by climate change.

(Thanking UNFCCC, Wikipedia, IPCC,  the Goddards Institute of Space Studies and Mrs Natalia Tsoukala for the valuable information for this post)

     By Nikos Krideras
      This Beautiful Seaside Village Could be  Flooded by Climate Change

EQUINOX

Equinox, the 21^st of September, is officially the first day of autumn. Technically speaking, the equinox occurs when the sun is directly in line with the equator therefore, both in the Northern and in the Southern Hemispheres, there are equal hours of day and night.
         

We are very lucky in Greece because September is the "fourth month of summer", as the saying goes.  But, during the last few days there has been an abrupt decline of temperature, especially in the northern parts of our country where, unfortunately, heavy rains and hailstorms destroyed many vegetable and fruit cultivations.

In Attica, where we live, there was a sudden downpour, yesterday, that didn’t last very long. The sun is shining brightly today, without the imperceptible suspicion of autumn.  I just adore the middle section of this season, with golden-red leaves on the trees, the multi-coloured chrysanthemums blooming in gardens and windowsills, the fruit trees bending with their delicious crop, the beautifully mellow autumn sunsets and the oblique slanting shadows before dusk.

The Orange-Red Folliage on the Trees

Chrysanthemums

Quince Trees Bending with Fruit

Mellow Autumn Sunsets

Moreover, we are especially satisfied that we haven’t, yet, felt the climate change in Greece, despite the severe alarm of global warming, from scientists.

Here are a few recipes of dishes with autumn vegetables and fruits.

                                          QUINCE AND CARROT SOUP

A delicious soup.

2 large, ripe quinces, quartered, cored and very finely sliced

1 ½ tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 small onion, peeled and grated

250 g (½ lb) carrots, scraped and very finely sliced

2 potatoes, peeled and sliced

1 ½ litre (6 cups) or more hot, tasty vegetable soup

Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

Whipped Greek yoghurt and chopped parsley to serve

Sauté the quinces, onion and carrots in olive oil and a little water for 5-7 minutes, then add the potatoes and pour in the hot vegetable stock, sprinkle with freshly ground white pepper. Lower the temperature., cover the saucepan and simmer for about 20-25 minutes until the vegetables are cooked.

Puree with a hand blender until smooth, taste and season with salt and extra pepper if necessary.  Serve with Greek yoghurt and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

                                       CREAMY BEETROOT SOUP

This is a lovely, comforting soup with a rich colour, an appropriate choice for Christmas meals

 2 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, peeled and chopped

2 large leeks, trimmed, split in half, washed and sliced

1¼ kg (2½ lb) beetroots, peeled and cut in small pieces, (leaves reserved for another meal)

3 large potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

1½ (6 cups) hot tasty chicken stock

1 bouquet garni (1 bay leaf + 1 large sprig dill + 1 sprig thyme + thin slice peeled ginger)

½ cup grated kasseri or Graviera from Crete or Cheddar or Gouda

Salt and pepper to taste

A tiny knob of butter

Garnish:

250 g (1cup) Greek yogurt mixed with

Salt and pepper

Snipped chives

Croutons toasted lightly scented with garlic

Sauté the vegetables in olive oil, over low heat, sprinkle with freshly ground white pepper, a little salt and stir for about 7-8 minutes, until the onions and leeks are limp and the beets and potatoes and starting to soften.     

Pour in the hot chicken stock, add the bouquet garni, cover the saucepan and simmer for 20 minutes or more until the vegetables are thoroughly cooked.

Discard the bouquet garni.  Puree the soup with a hand blender until smooth and strain it through a fine sieve pressing any pieces of vegetable with the back of a spoon to release all the taste.     Pour the soup to a clean saucepan and bring to a simmer. Sprinkle with cheese and stir until well combined.   Taste and add freshly ground white pepper and salt, if necessary.

Serve in soup bowls, with a swirl of yoghurt sprinkled with snipped chives and garlic croutons.

             BROCCOLI RISOTTO WITH MUSHROOMS AND WHITE TRUFFLE

  

                                            

It is difficult to give the exact amount of liquid used for a perfect risotto. Some rice varieties need 1:5 (1part rice – 5 parts liquid), others need less or more liquid.

750 g (1 ½ lb) broccoli florets, boiled al dente, strained and dried on kitchen paper,

                                                                                                            water reserved

500 g (1 lb) fresh white mushrooms, trimmed and cut into chunks

1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped

1-2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped

2-3 tbsp butter

6-7 saffron stamens infused in

250 ml (1 cup) good quality, warm white wine

500 g (1 lb)) risotto rice

1 litre (4 cups) hot chicken or vegetable stock

500 ml (2 cups) hot broccoli water

½ cup parsley, chopped

1 tsp fresh marjoram leaves, finely chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

90 g (1 cup) San Mihalis or Parmesan cheese, grated

Extra grated cheese for serving

1 small white truffle scrubbed with a brush and washed

Sauté the mushrooms in 1½ tbsp butter, for about 7 minutes, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Add the broccoli and cook 5 minutes more. Then remove the vegetables and keep hot.  

 In the same pan add the remaining butter, onion and garlic and cook gently until the onion softens.  Add the rice and cook until transparent, pour in the warm wine with the saffron and stir continuously until absorbed.  Add the chicken or vegetable stock and the broccoli water, a cup at a time, stirring the rice until the liquid is absorbed, before adding the next cup.

  

When the rice is almost done, add the vegetables and the herbs and carefully mix together.   Finally, remove from the fire, add the cheese and let it melt, and shave a little white truffle over.   Serve immediately with grated cheese and a glass of the same white wine you used for cooking, iced this time!

                                

                 RICE WITH BEETROOT, ROASTED TOMATOES AND BASIL                                                                 

                                               

This is a colourful, tasty dish.

2 large beetroots, parboiled, peeled and grated

2 large, ripe but firm tomatoes, peeled, seeded and halved

1 clove garlic, mashed

1 tsp or more sugar

3 tbsp olive oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

450 g (2 cups) risotto rice

250 ml (1 cup) dry, white wine

One litre (4 cups) chicken stock (2 more cups might be needed according to the type    

                                                                                                                   of rice used)

1 cup beetroot tops, boiled in slightly salted water, drained and finely chopped

1 tbsp fresh basil, chopped, or

1 tbsp parsley, chopped

90 g (3 oz) feta cheese

Salt and pepper

A knob of butter, optional

90 g (3 oz) grated or flaked San Mihalis or Parmesan

Place the tomatoes in a baking dish, sprinkle with garlic, sugar and a pinch of salt, drizzle with 1 tbsp olive oil, and roast until tender.  Chop and set aside.

Heat the stock in a saucepan.   In a larger pan, sauté the onion and garlic in the remaining olive oil until soft, around 2 minutes.   Add the rice, stir and sauté for 2-3 minutes more, then pour in the wine and simmer, stirring, until absorbed.   Then add 1/3 of the chicken stock and stir, cover the saucepan and simmer gently, until the liquid is absorbed.  Add the grated beetroot and enough of the remaining stock to just cover the rice.  Stir constantly until absorbed, before adding the next ladleful of stock.   The rice should never dry out. 

When the rice is almost cooked, add the beetroot tops, chopped tomato, basil (or parsley) and the feta cheese, and simmer for 2-3 minutes more. The rice should be tender but firm. Taste for seasoning and correct with salt and freshly ground black pepper, if necessary. Add a little stock if dried out. Stir in the butter, remove from the heat and serve immediately sprinkled with grated cheese.

                                              PETIMEZI OR COTTO

Petimezi or cotto, as it called in the Ionian Islands, is boiled grape must, reduced until dark and syrupy.   Petimezi is used in many Greek recipes, both savoury and sweet.

                                             SPICY PETIMEZI TART

Do try this tart if you like petimezi.

Pastry:

200 g (an ample 1½ cup) plain flour

30 g (1 oz) powdered almonds or thinly chopped walnuts

A pinch of salt

130 g (½ cup + 1 tsp) cold butter, cut in small pieces

1 egg

Very little brandy, if necessary

Filling:

4 medium-sized eggs

150 g (¾ cup) sugar

50 ml (1/5 cup) petimezi

1 liqueur glass brandy

1/8 tsp ginger powder

¼ tsp ground cinnamon

1/8 tsp grated nutmeg

½ tsp baking powder

60 g (2 oz) self-rising flour

First, make the pastry.  Rub the butter with flour, almond powder or thinly chopped walnuts and salt, until they resemble fine bread crumbs.   Then add the eggs, stir lightly and gather the dough into a ball.  If the dough crumbles add the brandy, drop by drop until the particles adhere.

Line a tart tin evenly with pastry, pressing it in the bottom, up the sides of the tin,

trimming the edges.   Cover with cling film and refrigerate for 30 minutes.  Bake blind, in an oven, preheated to 180 C (350 F), for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the filling.   Beat the eggs with the sugar until light, fluffy and doubled in bulk.  Pour in the petimezi, brandy, the spices, baking powder and flour and stir until well combined.  Pour over the hot, baked crust and bake for 20 minutes more, until brown and still a little wobbly and remove immediately from the oven.

                                             MINI QUINCE QUICHES

                                               

                                

                                               

 A lovely recipe!     

 Pastry:

350 g (2 1/3 cups) plain flour

Salt

180 g (6 oz) butter, diced

4 tbsp cold milk

1 ½ tbsp fine dried breadcrumbs, for sprinkling over the pastry cases

Filling:

1 tbsp olive oil

1 medium onion, grated

2 spring onions, finely sliced

600 g (1 lb 3oz) quince, peeled and grated

3 medium carrots, peeled and grated

2 celery stalks, trimmed and finely sliced
A little hot water if necessary

500 ml (2 cups) cream

1-2 tbsp dill, finely chopped

½ tbsp chopped parsley

Salt and pepper and nutmeg to taste

For the top:

180 g (2 cups) mild-tasting feta thickly grated

90 g (1 cup) San Michalis cheese or Parmesan, grated

Freshly ground black pepper

For the pastry mix the flour and salt together, rub in the butter, add the milk and knead into a pliable dough.   Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, prepare the filling.   Sauté the onions, quince, carrots and celery in olive oil.  Sprinkle with a little salt and freshly ground pepper. pour in a little hot water and cook very gently, covered, stirring once or twice, until most of the cooking liquid evaporates and the vegetables turn into a thick puree.  Stir in the cream, nutmeg, dill and just simmer for 1-2 minutes more.  Take off the heat and set aside to cool.

Roll out the dough and line 12 buttered tart dishes. Bake blind in an oven preheated to 190 C (375 F) for about 12 minutes and set aside to cool.  Sprinkle the crumbs over the pastry shells.  Spoon the filling over, and level with a spatula.   Mix the two types of grated cheese together and place evenly over the vegetables, and sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper.  Bake in an oven, preheated to 190 C (375 F) for 20 minutes, then lower the heat to 180 C (370 F), or even lower, and bake 10  minutes more.

                                    CHICKEN DRUMSTICKS WITH GRAPES                                         

This delectable, gourmet dish is always enjoyed.

12 chicken drumsticks

Marinade:

125 ml (½ cup) soy sauce

125 ml (½ cup) water

2½ cm (1 inch) square piece of peeled ginger, sliced

2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped

4 rosemary or tarragon sprigs divided

Olive oil

1 kg (2 lbs) sultana grapes, stems removed or any other variety of seedless grapes

 A knob of butter

Salt and pepper

1-2 tbsp petimezi (syrup of grape must)

Marinate the chicken for 3 hours at room temperature, turning them around once.   Then place them on a grill standing over a baking tin and brush with olive oil.   Pour a cup of water in the tin and roast the drumsticks in an oven preheated to 190 C (375 F) for 35-40 minutes.  Pour the rest of the olive oil in the marinade and baste every 15-20 minutes.  After 20 minutes turn the chicken over and cook, for the remaining time or until the skin is crisp and brown.

 Meanwhile, reserve a cupful of fresh grapes and sauté the remaining in butter.  Season with a little of the marinade add a sprig of the same herb used for the drumsticks, taste for seasoning and add some salt and pepper if necessary.   Stir in the petimezi, but do not cook more than 6-7 minutes.

When the drumsticks are ready, arrange them attractively on a dish.  Add the raw grapes to the cooked ones and spoon them next to the chicken.

       

            

  

                                         MEAT WITH QUINCES

                                                      

         

     

This dish is cooked with olive oil and the butter added at the end.

1.5 kg (3 lb) beef or pork cut in serving pieces

1 kg (2 lb) quince, cored and cut in sixths or eights

1 onion, peeled and finely chopped

2 tbsp olive oil

1 liqueur glass Metaxa brandy

125 ml (½ cup) Mavrodaphne or any other sweet sweet wine

3 ripe tomatoes, halved, seeded and grated, skins discarded

Salt, pepper and a little sugar

Hot water

1 tbsp or more honey

2 tbsp butter

Brown the meat in olive oil, add the onion and sauté until transparent, and season with salt and pepper.

Pour in the brandy and then the wine and simmer stirring for 2-3 minutes, until the alcohol evaporates.  Then add the tomatoes and enough hot water to just cover the meat.  Sprinkle with a little sugar, cover the saucepan and simmer until the meat is half cooked.

Add the quince to the meat, adding a little salt and water, if necessary.  Cook gently until both the meat and fruit are tender.  Taste and add more salt, if necessary, freshly ground pepper, honey and butter, and swirl the saucepan and simmer for 2-3 minutes more.   Serve with steamed white rice.

                                

                                   QUINCE AND APPLE CRUMBLE

  

                                              

The quinces provide aroma and thicken the fruit juices in this lovely dessert!

1 medium-sized quince, finely sliced

4 apples, peeled and finely sliced

200 g (1 cup) sugar, plus 1 tbsp

225 g (1 cup) butter, plus 1 tbsp

300 g (2 cups) flour, plus 1 tbsp

Cinnamon to taste

Juice of ½ a lemon

4 tbsp water

Brown sugar, optional

Mix the fruit with one tablespoon each of flour, sugar and butter, cinnamon to taste, water and lemon juice.   Spread this mixture in a baking dish.

  

Place the remaining flour in a bowl, rub in the butter and then stir in the sugar and cinnamon to taste.   Spread this mixture on top of the fruit and press down firmly.

  

Sprinkle with some brown sugar, if liked.  Bake the crumble in an oven preheated to 190 C (375 F) for about ½ hour, or until nicely browned.

                                                    

                                                 QUINCE PRESERVE

       

                 

 Kydonopasto is very popular in Greece.

1 kg (2 lb) quinces (about 4 pieces)

½ kg (2 ½ cups) caster sugar and

¼ kg (1/2 lb) honey, or

750 g (1 1/2 lb) brown sugar 

200 g (1 cup) roasted almonds

2-3 small sprigs sweet-scented geranium leaves, tied in a bouquet, or

1 medium-sized cinnamon stick

1 liqueur glass Metaxa brandy

1 cup granulated sugar or more for coating the preserve

A few bay-leaves for storing

Wrap the quinces in foil and bake until tender.  Then peel, de-seed and blend them until smooth.  Reserve the seeds and tie them in a piece of muslin.

Place the quince puree in a saucepan, over low heat.  Gradually add the sugar and honey (or sugars only), the reserved pouch and the sweet-scented geranium bouquet and simmer gently, stirring with a wooden spoon.   When the mixture thickens and detaches itself from the sides of the saucepan, add the almonds and cook 2-3 minutes more, stirring constantly.   Remove and discard the bouquet and the seed pouch.

 

Spread the mixture in a tin, lined with oiled baking parchment, drizzle with brandy and level the surface evenly.   It should not be over 2 cm (¾ in) in thickness.

Place in an oven preheated to 180 C and bake for 45-50 minutes. Remove the tin from the oven and cool a little. Turn over the preserve, peel off the baking parchment and cut it into small squares or diamond shapes.   Roll in granulated sugar, and store in boxes, interspersed with bay leaves or baking parchment. 

Kydonopasto is excellent cut in slivers, accompanied by cheese.

                                            

                                                 QUINCE JELLY

                                                       

The pectin in the fruit makes the jelly set beautifully.

1 kg (2 lb) about 4 quinces, peeled and quartered, peel and pips reserved

Sugar: 1 cup sugar to 1 cups quince juice

1 thick slice lemon, peeled

1-2 sweet geranium leaves

Tie the quince, peel and pips in a piece of cheesecloth, cover with water and simmer until soft.  Then strain the juice and measure it; set aside the quince pieces for preparing kydonopasto.

 

Add the sugar to the quince juice, the peeled lemon slice and a sweet geranium leaves and simmer gently.  It should be ready in about 25 minutes.  Pour the jelly into sterilised preserving jars, let cool and seal.

                                               

                                     

                          GRAPES (SULTANAS) PRESERVED IN SYRUP

                                           

           

 Sultana grapes make an excellent spoon sweet as they have no pips and are very thin-skinned.

1 kg (2 lb) sultana grapes, stemmed and washed

½ kg (1 lb) sugar

62.5 ml (1/4 cup) Metaxa brandy

2-3 sweet-scented geranium leaves

Place the grapes in a large saucepan in layers with the sugar in between, and refrigerate for 12 hours. The next day, bring the sultanas to the boil, skim, and cook gently for 10 minutes.  Remove the saucepan from the fire, add the brandy and sweet-scented geranium leaves, stir and set aside.

   

After 24 hours, simmer the grapes until the syrup thickens.   Set aside to cool and discard the geranium leaves.   Finally, pour the spoon sweet into sterilized jars, cover with baking parchment rounds and seal.

"Quinces, Peaches and Jasmins" by Fede Galizia