As I have mentioned in an older post, my husband and I stayed at the family house in Kifissia and from there we visited several parts of Greece. It was April 1956 and we were on home leave.
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| The Old House in Kefalari, Kifissia |
After Mycenae, we visited ancient Olympia. In 1956, the road followed the lacy northern coastline of the Peloponnese, passing through towns and small, picturesque villages all the way to Patras.
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| Ancient Landscapes in the Peloponnese |
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| Patras |
There are indications of settlements in Patras as early as the 3rd millennium BC. According to mythology, the town flourished during the Mycenean period (1580-1511 BC). After the Dorian invasion, a number of Achaeans from Laconia, commanded by Patreus, established a colony and named it Patras to honour their leader.
In accordance with historical facts, during Greek antiquity, it was a farming town and around 280 BC Patras played a significant role, with neighbouring towns, in the structure of the Achaian League. The League was an alliance where the cities helped each other in times of hardship or prosperity, war or peace, like a small, archaic League of Nations.
In Roman times, it became an important port and reached its peak of power when it was promoted to an Imperial Colony, the highest rank a community or town could acquire, in the Roman Empire.
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| Ancient Roman Ruins of the Patras Odeon |
Later, Patras was a significant Christian centre, where St. Andrew martyred by crucifixion for preaching Christianity, during Nero's reign.
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| The Contemporary Church of St Andrew |
Throughout the Middle Ages, in the Byzantine era, Patras became a prosperous town with a busy port. In 1205, during the Crusades, it was conquered by the Frankish Princes William de Champlitte and Geoffrey de Villeharduin I and became the seat of the Barony of Patras. During the period of the Frankish rule, many beautiful mansions and fortification were built in Achaia and Elis like the beautiful Chlemoutsi (Clermont) Castle, shown below.
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| Chlemoutsi (Clermont) Castle Built by Prince Geoffrey de Villharduin 1220-1230 |
In 1408, Patras was seized by the Venetians until it was re-captured by Constantine Palaeologos. It remained as part of the Despotat of Morea until conquered, in 1458, by the Ottoman Turk Sultan, Mehmet II. Throughout the Ottoman period, the city was granted special privileges and tax reductions.
Venice and Genoa attacked and captured Patras several times during the 15th and 16th centuries, without actually occupying it, except for a 28-year parenthesis of Venetian rule from 1687-1715.
The New Archaeological Museum of Patras, built by the architect Mr Theofanis Bobotis, has an 8.000 square metre interior and is the second largest museum in Greece. It houses very interesting and beautiful collections dating from prehistoric times to the end of the Roman period, Our congratulations to all who worked so hard and who with such great accuracy and precision transferred the mosaics from the archaeological excavations to the museum, in splendid condition.
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| The Old Archaeological Museum of Patras |
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| The New Archaeological Museum of Patras |
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| A Beautiful Mosaic Depicting a Muse |
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| Medusa the Gorgon |
Patras was one of the first Greek towns from which the Greek Revolution was declared. in 1821. The city was finally liberated in 1828, by the French forces commanded by General Maison.
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| Freedom or Death by Theodore Vryzakis |
The new city of Patras was planned in 1829 by the famous urban planner, Stamatis Voulgaris, under the instructions of Ioannis Kapodistrias, the first Governor of Greece.
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| Stamatis Voulgaris' First Plans of the City of Patras |
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| A Vintage Photo of Pharos, the Symbol of Patras |
Early in the 20th century, Patras prospered and was the first city in Greece that introduced electric street lighting and trams. It also had important industrial units such as renowned wine and spirits facilities and later textile factories.
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| The Textile Factory Piraiki-Patraiki |
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| Achaia Klaus Wineries |
During World War II, Patras was seriously bombarded by the Italians but after the occupation, in 1944, it fully recovered and developed into the beautiful city we know today.
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| George I Square, with the Apollon Theatre by Ernst Ziller in the Background |
Patras has two public Universities and a Technological Institute, therefore it accommodates a large student population. It is considered, academically, as a major scientific and technological centre.
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| Biology Department University of Patras |
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| The Rio-Antirrio Bridge |
A few words about the Patras Carnival which has the reputable fame of being one of the best in Europe. It started 180 years ago, apparently due to the fabulous balls, given in the residences of the city's bourgeoisie.
The Carnival begins every 17th January, on St Antony's day, and ends on Clean Monday, the first day of Lent. It has many events, such as balls, parades, satyric floats, children's carnivals, treasure hunts and chocolate wars. The residents and the tourists dance everywhere, in their homes, in nightclubs, taverns, cafes, pastry shops even in the streets!!
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| One of the Patras' Carnival Satyric Floats |
We stayed a day in Patras and then drove south towards Pyrgos, in the precinct of Elis, which is 16 km (10 miles) west of Olympia. The area of Western Achaia and Elis is one of the most beautiful parts of Greece, with many exquisite sandy beaches, lush vegetation, villages with lovely stone houses on the slopes of Erymanthos and Panachaikos, busy ports, quaint fishing villages and excellent hotels.
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| Thanks to dreamingr for the Beautiful Detailed Map |
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| A Hotel in Kato Achaia |
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| Near Pyrgos |
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| A Beautiful Sandy Beach |
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| I Have No Words |
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| Kalogria Beach Kato Achaia |
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| The Beautiful Mountain Village of Andritsena |
With our little Fiat Cinquecento, we drove from Pyrgos to Ancient Olympia. We passed through a wooded area with olive and pine trees, planes and poplars, and with awe and delight, we reached our destination. There in front of us lay the most renowned sanctuary and athletic centre of the ancient world, dedicated to Zeus, father of the gods.
Olympia lies at the base of Mount Kronos, near the confluence of the rivers Alfeios and Kladeos, amidst luxuriant vegetation. Its prestigious reputation grew further due to the Olympic Games, the greatest sports event, which took part every four years, one full moon after the summer solstice.
Athletes, from all the Greek city-states, gathered in Olympia to compete. The winning participants were crowned with olive wreaths. Each was welcomed as a hero by his compatriots when he returned to his home city, where, with great ceremony, a stone was symbolically removed from the defensive walls because, at that precise time, they had an Olympioniki (an Olympic winner) to defend and protect them!
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| A Kotinos (Olive Wreath) |
In Olympia, traces of "food and burnt offerings", showing a long period of cult devotion, were discovered by archaeologists, dating to the 10th century BC. However, there are no signs of building activities during this early Prehistoric Period.
During the Geometric and the Archaic periods the first Olympic festival was set up on the site, in the 8th century BC.
The first Olympic Games took place in 776 BC. Great improvements were made for the occasion, such as smoothing the ground and opening new wells.
The temple of Hera, the Treasuries and the Pelopian were erected throughout the 6th century BC. But also secular buildings like the athletic arenas and the Bouleuterion were built during this era. The first stadium, with a single track, was constructed around 560 BC, but it was improved with slanting sides, circa 500 BC, in order to accommodate the spectators. During the 6th century BC. a number of sports were added to the Olympic Festival.
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| Te Temple of Hera |
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| The Bouleuterion |
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| The Stadium's Single Track with Slanting Sides |
The Classical period between the 5th and 4th centuries BC. was the Golden Age of Olympia. A large amount of both religious and secular buildings were built, like the huge and beautifully decorated temple of Zeus, by the architect Libon of Elis.
The temple of Zeus was built in Doric Style and featured two pediments. The eastern pediment depicted a chariot race, by Paeonius, the western pediment depicted a centauromachy and was carved by Alcamenes. The Metope of the temple depicted the twelve labours of Hercules.
In the temple was the renowned statue of Zeus made out of gold and ivory (chryselephantino), by the master sculptor, Pheidias. It took twelve years to complete and was considered one of the seven wonders of the ancient world.
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| The Temple of Zeus in Olympia |
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| The Statue of Zeus by Pheidias |
Also, the Prytanion, the seat of the government, was built in 470 BC, and the Greek baths at the middle of the 5th century BC. In the late Classical period, further structures were added to the location, like the Metroon, a temple dedicated to mother goddess Rhea, which was erected near the treasuries, circa 400 BC. The Echo Stoa was built around 350 BC. separating the sanctuary from the area of the games and the stadium. The South Stoa was naturally built on the southern side, at approximately the same period.
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| Ruins of the Prytanion |
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| The Greek Baths |
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| The Echo Stoa |
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| The Metroon |
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| The South Stoa |
During the Hellenistic period, in the late 4th century BC, the Phillippion was constructed, also the Leonidion was built to accommodate important visitors. As the importance and prestige of the Olympic Games increased, a Palaestra was added in the 3rd century BC and a Gymnasium during the 2nd century BC.
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| A Palaestra Model |
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| The Gymnasium in Ancient Olympia |
During the Roman Period, the games were opened to all Roman citizens. Many new buildings were built, others were extensively repaired, including the Temple of Zeus. In 100 AD new baths replaced the old Greek ones, in 150 AD the Nymphaeum or the Exedra was built, and. finally, in 160 AD an aqueduct was constructed.
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| Nymphaeum Exedra of Herodes Atticus by Getty Images |
During the 3rd century, the region suffered very severe damages from monster earthquakes and many of the fabulous treasures were stolen. Despite the immense destruction of Altis, the Olympic Games continued to be held, until 393 AD. Then, the Christian Emperor Theodosius I banned the Games, and around 426 AD, following the edict of the Emperor Theodosius II, the temple of Zeus, an exquisite work of art, was, unfortunately, totally destroyed.
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| One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, Destroyed by a Christian Emperor |
Pheidias workshop was converted into a cathedral, and the region was inhabited by Christians. According to archaeological whispers, a few Olympic events were held secretly, under "Christian guise" until Justinian's plague in 541-542, the worse pandemic of bubonic plague ever known and two devastating earthquakes ravaged the area. Finally, in the early 7th century AD, severe floods forced the few remaining residents to abandon the region, forever.
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| The Red Sea was one of the Probable Gateways of the Bubonic Plague |
For many centuries, the area of Olympia was buried by an 8-metre deep alluvial deposit and completely forgotten. It was, initially, believed that the catastrophe was due to river flooding. However, contemporary studies lead to the presumption, that due to the "presence of molluscs and shells", the location must have been repeatedly inundated by enormous tidal waves.
The English antiquarian, Richard Chandler, discovered Olympia in 1760, but the first excavations of Olympia, by the French "Expedition Scientifique de Moree" took place in 1829.
The German Archaeological Institute in Athens, during the years 1875 to 1881, under Richard Bohn, Friedrich Alder and Ernst Curtius, assisted by Wilhelm Dorpfeld, excavated the area of Ancient Olympia, funded by the German Government. The central part of the sanctuary was excavated at that period, including the Temple of Zeus, the Temple of Hera, the Metroon, the Bouleuterion, the Phillippion, the Echo Stoa and the Palaestra. The results were exceptional as sculptures from the temple of Zeus, the famous statues of Nike of Paeonius and Hermes of Praxiteles were found and also many bronze pieces.
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| Nike by Paeonius |
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| Hermes with Baby Dionysos by Praxiteles |
The excavations rekindled the memory of the ancient Olympic Games and perhaps inspired young Baron de Coubertin to create the foundation of the Modern Olympic Games, the first of which was held in Athens, in 1896.
Between 1908-1924, restricted excavations were continued by Dorpfeld, but a new systematic excavation began in 1936, on the occasion of the 1936 Summer Olympics in Berlin, under Emil Kunze and Hans Schleif.
From 1950 up to the present times, the excavations continued under Kunze and Schleif and the architect Alfred Mulwitz. They excavated Pheidias' workshop, the Leonidaion, the north wall of the Stadium the south-east section of the sanctuary and found many bronze objects of great beauty and terra cotta roof tiles.
In 1956 we visited the Museum of Ancient Olympia were awed by the beauty and perfection of the statues and admired the beautiful bronze collection, which apparently is one of the richest of its kind in the world.
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| The Archaeological Museum of Olympia |
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| From the West Pediment of the Temple of Zeus |
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| The Bronze Collection Gallery |
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| A Disk of the Bronze Collection |
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| A Horse of the Bronze Collection |
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| A Bronze Figurine |
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| Bronze Helmets |
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| A Gold Olive Wreath |
The Olympic flame of the Modern Olympic Games "is lit by the reflection of the sunlight in a parabolic mirror", in front of the temple of Hera in Olympia, and then carried by torches to the place where the Games ar held.
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| The Olympic Flame |
(Most of the information on this post is from Wikipedia, Wikimania and the archaeologist, Dr Olympia Vicatou who wrote a very interesting article on Ancient Olympia, to all of whom I'm sincerely grateful.)
Here are a few recipes for dishes from the Peloponnese, which I hope you will like.
COURGETTES POTATO AND TOMATO SOUP
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| Soup of the Evening Beautiful Soup.... |
This is a lovely soup from the northern Peloponnese.
6 small courgettes, trimmed and cubed
4 small potatoes, peeled and cubed
2 medium sized tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cubed
4 tbsp olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tbsp cornflour
1500 ml (6 cups) tasty vegetable soup
1 sprig of dill
2 eggs
1 cup grated kefalotyri or pecorino
Garnish:
3-4 tbsp parsley, leaves only, thickly chopped
More grated cheese to pass around, if necessary
Saute the courgettes, potatoes and tomatoes in olive oil for about 3-4 minutes stirring occasionally. Sprinkle with a little salt, freshly ground pepper, cornflour and stir for a minute or two.
Pour in the hot vegetable stock, add the dill, cover the saucepan, bring to the boil and simmer very gently until the vegetables are tender. and discard the dill.
When ready to serve, heat the soup and whip the eggs until creamy; stir in the cheese and slowly pour about two ladlefuls of hot cooking liquid into the whipped egg and cheese mixture, beating constantly. Off the heat, add the egg/cheese mixture to the soup and then, heat it gently, stirring constantly until it thickens, but do not boil to prevent it from curdling.
Taste the soup for seasoning and add a little salt if necessary. Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley and optionally with extra grated cheese.
ROAST FISH WITH A TOMATO AND HERB CRUST
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My husband and I enjoyed a delightful fish dish in Patras, in 1956. Here's the recipe.
1.500 kg (3 lb) seabass or red snapper, scaled, washed, and sprinkled with
Lemon juice and
Salt
62.5 ml (1/4 cup) olive oil
1/2 cup finely chopped parsley mixed with
1/2 clove garlic finely chopped and the
Grated rind of 1 lemon
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 twig fresh thyme
2 tomatoes, peeled, thickly sliced and de-seeded
A little salt
3-4 tbsp breadcrumbs mixed with
1/2 tbsp fresh thyme leaves
A little olive oil
1 kg. (2 lb) potatoes, peeled thickly sliced and boiled in salted water until partly cooked
62.5 ml (1/4 cup) olive oil
Lemon juice to taste
1/2 tsp chopped thyme leaves
Place the fish in a pyrex and put the thyme twig into the belly cavity. Pour half of the olive oil, evenly over the fish and sprinkle it first with the parsley/garlic/lemon rind mixture and then with freshly ground black pepper. Cover with the tomato slices, season with a suspicion of salt, press the breadcrumbs thickly over and drizzle with the remaining olive oil.
Meanwhile, season the half-boiled potatoes slices with olive oil, lemon juice, freshly ground black pepper, sprinkle with chopped thyme and arrange, in a single layer, around the fish. Bake in an oven preheated to 180 C (350 F ) for about 30 minutes or until the fish flakes easily, and the potatoes turn crispy and golden.
Serve with a green salad, crusty brown bread and a glass of dry white wine.
CHICKEN COOKED THE BARDOUNA WAY
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| Bourdiniotiko Chicken |
This is a regional dish of the vicinity of Sparta, "but not at all Spartan" as my friend June Marinos would say.
One 1.500 g (3 lb) chicken, cut into serving pieces, sprinkled with
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
125 ml (1/2 cup) olive oil
1 tsp clarified butter
5 onions, peeled and finely sliced
250 ml (1 cup) Mavrodaphne or any sweet red wine of your choice
4 ripe but firm tomatoes, halved, seeded, grated, skins discarded
250 ml (1 cup) or more tasty chicken stock
Salt and pepper to taste
250 g (1/2 lb) stoned green olives or capers (soaked, if too salty, and dried)
250 g (1/2 lb) Kasseri or Gruyere or Cheddar, cubed
First, saute the chicken in olive oil and clarified butter, in batches, until golden brown and transfer to a platter.
Add the sliced onions and cook until limp and slightly coloured. Arrange the sauteed chicken over the onions and pour in the sweet red wine and cook for2-3 minutes until the alcohol evaporates. Then add the grated tomatoes and the chicken stock, swirl the saucepan, and simmer very gently, covered, until the chicken is tender the sauce thick. adding a little more chicken stock, when and if necessary.
Add the olives or capers and cook for ten minutes more, then scatter the cubed cheese over and simmer for five minutes until it melts a little. Taste and season accordingly.
Serve with chips and sauteed vegetables or over any pasta of your choice.
PORK FILLET MEDALLIONS COOKED IN SPICY APPLE OR PEACH SAUCE
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| Pork Fillet Medallions in a Spicy Peach Sauce |
One can prepare this delicious dish either with apples or peaches.
1500g (3 lb) pork fillet, trimmed and cut into medallions
2 tbsp olive oil
2 scant tsp clarified butter
2 small rosemary twigs
A little salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 liqueur glass METAXA brandy
1 litre (4 cups) or more hot, tasty chicken stock
6 apples, peeled, cored and chopped or
6 peaches, blanched, peeled, stoned and chopped
1 tsp "four-spices mixture" (please see recipe below)*
1 - 1 1/2 tsp honey or more
Lemon juice, according to taste
125 ml (1/2 cup) cream, optional
*Four-spices mixture:
1 tsp finely ground pepper
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground cloves
1/2 tsp nutmeg, grated
(I add 1 tsp ginger powder)
Mix all the spices well together
Heat the olive oil and clarified butter with the rosemary sprigs and saute the meat in batches. Discard the rosemary and season the medallions sparingly with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Return all the meat to the saucepan, pour the brandy evenly over and cook, stirring for a few minutes until the alcohol evaporates.
Arrange the chopped fruit over the meat, and just cover with the hot chicken stock. Drizzle with a little honey, sprinkle with the spice mixture, cover the saucepan and simmer very gently form15-20 minutes until the meat is thoroughly cooked and tender. Do not overcook!
Remove the medallions with a slotted spoon and blend the fruit with a hand blender to a smooth, thick sauce. Taste and add more salt, pepper, honey or spices, if necessary. Also, add a little lemon juice to accentuate the taste. Add the meat to the sauce and cook for one or two minutes more. Finally, stir in the cream, if using, but do not boil.
Serve with chips, or creamy mashed potatoes and a green salad.
CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
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| Delicious Chocolate Mousse Garnished with Mint |
This is the recipe for a lovely chocolate mousse which resembles a custard.
6 medium-sized egg yolks
6 tbsp sugar, separated
625 ml (2 1/2 cups) thick cream, separated
240 ml (8 oz) semisweet dark chocolate, cut into small pieces
Vanilla
A pinch of salt
1 liqueur glass Metaxa brandy
In a medium saucepan, whisk yolks with 3 tbsp of sugar and 1 cup thick cream. Simmer, very gently, stirring constantly until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. Do not boil. Remove from the stove and stir in the chocolate, the vanilla, salt and the brandy and cool.
Meanwhile, whip the remaining cream and sugar into a Chantilly. Gently fold 1/3 of the whipped cream into the chocolate mixture to lighten it and add the remaining cream and fold until just combined but not traces of white are evident. Divide equally between wine glasses. cover and ice for 2 hours at least.
Bring to room temperature before serving with extra whipped cream.
