THE 1953 EARTHQUAKES
The last week of July, we boarded the Greek passenger ship, “Agamemnon”
at Venice,
and sailed southwards towards my beautiful island , Cephalonia . The sea was calm, sparkling during the day
and “wine dark” at dusk. The Captain,
officers and the staff of the ship were very good professionals, and the food
and service were exceptional. We
met some interesting people on board, including Dr.Gerolimatos and his
family, who a few years later would become my children’s paediatrician.
We stopped at Corfu , where a few passengers disembarked, and sailed on for Cephalonia . We arrived at Sami late in the evening and
as we were approaching the island, a fragrance of fresh herbs filled the
air. My Mother said it was a combination
of thyme and marjoram, a marjoram, indigenous to Cephalonia ,
called “sapsiho”.
My aunt, uncles and cousins were all there to welcome us, as we hadn’t seen each other for eight years, since the end of World War II and
the German occupation. We drove to our house in Argostoli, dined
on the terrace, overlooking the garden, and talked and chatted endlessly, while sipping Robola.
Then, my cousins and I stayed way into the early morning
hours, reminiscing about our childhood and exchanging news about friends
and events.
During the following days, I rediscovered Argostoli. Built amphitheatrically on a hill side, which slopes down to the sea, it is a significant port. In late July, 1953 it had several imposing public buildings, constructed during the Venetian and British periods . Most of the houses were built in Neo-classic style, painted in pastel blues, yellows, ochres and pinks, the gardens blooming with bougainvilleas and jasmine. There were several old and newer churches, with their typical Ionian-styled belfries. The main streets were broad and tree-lined, while picturesque, cobble-stoned alleys led to the upper town. Argostoli was a jewel of a town, edged with unspoilt, sandy beaches, like Platis Yialos, Makris Yialos, Fanari and Lassi.
We went on excursions, with friends, to Lixuri, Assos,
Fiscardo, Livathos, Lourdas, Scala and Poros.
We admired the beauty and diversity of the landscape, like Mount Aenos, which is the second highest mountain on a
Greek island, with the famous Cephalonian fir tree forest, interesting hamlets
perched on hillsides, small fishing villages and lovely gardens
everywhere.
We swam in the cool waters of the Ionian
Sea and sailed around the South and East coasts of the island,
discovering small coves and pebbled inlets, which no roads led to. I met with old friends, who either
lived in Argostoli or came over for their summer holidays, and we remembered our childhood with nostalgia, despite the hard years of the Italian and the German occupation. I suddenly
realized how wonderful it would be to live, permanently, on this idyllic island
among good friends and loved ones. It
was a very happy period, indeed.
Suddenly, early one dawn, we were awakened by a very strong
earthquake. I quickly ran upstairs
to my parents’ room. My mother was
already in her dressing-gown but my father insisted that he needed a couple of
hours more sleep. So we left him and went downstairs to make a cup of coffee, where
we met my cousin. Aliki. I learned, then,
that Cephalonia lies next to a major tectonic
fault, where the European and the Aegean plates meet and is, therefore, prone to
an earthquake, once, every second or third year. Feeling utterly reassured, we continued with our daily schedules.
On that same day my cousin Ioanna arrived from Athens with her two
beautiful, teen-aged daughters. It was
lovely seeing them again and we started organizing picnics and excursions
around the island. One in particular,
would be a full-day picnic on Mount
Aenos , like the ones
organized, during the pre-war years. The whole family and friends would go
there in style, with tables, chairs and chaises-longues, blankets and
tablecloths. We would go in 5-6 cars, with baskets of food and drink,
medical kits and a portable gramophone for music. The whole mountain would be
ours!
Next morning, as we were preparing to go for a swim at Platis
Yialos, a much stronger earthquake shook the island. Again we mustered up our courage and erased all unpleasant thoughts. We went swimming and diving, with friends, and relaxed on the beach to tan, as fashion demanded.
Information started coming in, from various sources, about
several deaths and injuries, caused by the last earthquake. We had no idea that Zante and Ithaka were also
affected and that houses collapsed, killing and injuring people It was simply awful. We felt
numb and confused and very concerned. We slept out in the garden, that
night. Information trickled in from the
villages that peculiar signs and indications were being witnessed, such as,
wells, that were full to the brim with water, had suddenly emptied, and that flocks of birds
were gathering in flights, preparing to migrate.
Next day an earthquake rocked the island to such an extent, that hospital patients, institution invalids and prison inmates were promptly evacuated to makeshift, outdoor
facilities.
We decided that we should spend the night in a small park,
next to the house. We each took a folding
chair, a small blanket and some water with us, and installed ourselves under a
walnut tree. Most of our neighbours were,
also, there. Further down, a group were softly singing
“Cantathes”, popular songs of the Ionian Islands . The nostalgic verses of the sailor :
“..n’avlepa tin Kefalonia ke to oreo Zante..” (..if I could only seeCephalonia and beautiful Zante..)
were extremely touching due to the circumstances, but also so soothing and appealing that I was soon lulled into a deep sleep, in spite of my very uncomfortable folding chair.
“..n’avlepa tin Kefalonia ke to oreo Zante..” (..if I could only see
were extremely touching due to the circumstances, but also so soothing and appealing that I was soon lulled into a deep sleep, in spite of my very uncomfortable folding chair.
The next morning we all rushed to the house to have a quick
shower and pack a few clothes. My
mother and my two cousins shooed us all away, including the maid, and prepared
an enormous breakfast, that we thoroughly enjoyed “under the shade of the old walnut tree”.
We tried to find out more about the earthquake victims, but we could get no information. We didn’t
know what to expect, how to react, how to help. We heard touching accounts about the sick and old; being so feeble and fragile, it
seemed unfair that they should have to go through all this inconvenience and anxiety. On the other hand, fortunately, young children considered it an exciting novelty and adventure, a twenty-four hour picnic in the
park
What happened next is beyond description. At first, we felt a hollow rumbling under our feet that crescendoed into a roar. The earth shook and thudded and rolled violently. We could not stand upright, as we were jolted and pushed and thrown backwards, forwards, sideways and down, with spite and fury. I had flashing, incongruous thoughts: “Was this doomsday?” and “I feel like and ice cube in a shaker”. I crawled, with great difficulty, next to my parents. "Was this going to last forever?" Then, there were consecutive, thundering sounds of houses collapsing, all over. And the dust! Clouds of dust in the beginning, that thickened into a fog, a chocking, yellow fog that smelled of sulphur and stung our eyes to tears. We could hardly see a metre ahead. The “
Later we went to see our house which, like all others, was
reduced to rubble, except for the southern wall and the basement. We were not allowed to enter before 48 hours
elapsed because of the aftershocks, so
we went to a square by the seaside called Metelas. On the way, we saw the extent of the
destruction, the whole town was
flattened to ruins. We had to climb over heaps of rubble and debris, and there
were deep cracks and crevices running all the way down to the sea, that we had to avoid. Also the trunks of many trees were split in two.
We managed to carry our suitcases and only three
folding chairs with us. When we
arrived at Metelas we spread a blanket under a tree and the older members of
the family sat on the chairs. Our main
concern was water, as the supply had been completely destroyed by the
earthquake. So my father, my cousin
Aliki and I went searching for water. We
walked towards a small taverna, called “Kyani Akti” (Blue Coast ), which was spared, because it was a wooden construction
built on stilts, in the sea.
My father knew the owner and he kindly provided us with two bottles of
water. Then we went to see my father’s elder sister
who lived near by. We found her in good
health, sitting by her ruined house, with her son and his family. She
was anxious but courageous, like most Cephalonians. She was a wonderful old lady, full of humour and
spunk, and I wished I would resemble her one day.
We slept uneasily under the pine trees on Metelas square, that night,
because the earth was heaving and groaning with the aftershocks. Next day we were informed that the earthquake
measured 7.2 degrees of the Richter Scale, lasted 50 seconds and left Cephalonia and Zante
leveled to the ground and Ithaka and Lefkada partly damaged. The tragedy was, that there were 600 killed
and 1.200 injured.
The first who arrived in our aid were four
Israeli war ships and the Royal Navy H.M.S. Daring, who offered us medical help,
water and food. Then many other war
ships arrived, and we wish to thank them all, sincerely, because
without their aid and succour, many more would have perished.
I'm giving you below, a few recipes from Cephalonia.
AUBERGINES STUFFED WITH CHEESE
This dish is traditionally prepared with Cephalonian kefalotyri, but you can use any hard cheese you prefer, even feta.
8 long aubergines of equal length, stems removed
4 tbsp olive oil
250 m (1 cup) water or more
Very little salt
300 g (10 oz) kefalotyri or pecorino or a mature cheddar or
hard feta, cut in 8 equal sticks
Sauce:
125 ml (½ cup) dry white wine
4 large tomatoes, halved, seeded, grated, skins discarded
250 ml (1 cup) tomato juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1-2 tsp sugar or more if preferred
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp olive oil
1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper, optional
1 tbsp fresh basil leaves, finely chopped
Make three incisions, lengthwise, in each aubergine. Sprinkle sparingly with salt and cook, very gently in olive oil and water,
until soft, turning them over, occasionally. Remove the aubergines with a slotted
spoon, and allow them to cool. Then insert one cheese stick into each aubergine.
Meanwhile prepare the sauce. Place all the ingredients, in a large, flat saucepan and simmer gently until it thickens. Transfer the cheese-stuffed aubergines, side by side in the tomato sauce and sprinkle with basil. Cover the saucepan and simmer for 15 minutes more. Taste and add more salt, pepper and sugar, if necessary. Serve with chips and a green salad.
CEPHALONIAN AUBERGINE
PIE
I have already given you recipes for "Cephalonian Meat Pie" and "Artichoke Pie" in an older post. Try preparing this pie, because it's tasty, comforting and large enough to feed 6-8 hungry people.
500 g (1 lb)
minced veal and pork in equal quantities or just use veal
2 tbsp
olive oil
1 medium
onion, grated
3 spring
onions, finely chopped
1 kg (2
lbs) aubergines, peeled and cut into small cubes
Salt and
pepper to taste
1 small
cinnamon stick
½ tsp
nutmeg, freshly grated
250 ml (1
cup) white wine
1 tomato,
peeled, de-seeded and chopped
Some sugar, if necessary
Some sugar, if necessary
3 tbsp
long-grain rice
½ cup
chopped parsley
1 tbsp
chopped sapsiho (Cephalonian marjoram) or marjoram
125 ml ( 1/2 cup) - 250 ml (1
cup) hot water
2 eggs, yolks beaten, whites whipped with a pinch of salt to the soft peak stage
250 g (8
oz) mild kasseri or Cheddar, cubed
10 sheets phyllo
pastry
180 g (6
oz) (5/8 cup) hot, melted butter
2 tbsp
dried breadcrumbs for baking
Saute the onions and spring onions in the
olive oil, until soft. Stir in the
minced meat and cook for about 10 minutes, until it changes colour. Add the aubergine cubes, salt and spices, mix
well together and cook for 10 minutes more. Pour in the wine and simmer for 2-3 minutes,
uncovered. Then add the tomato,
herbs, rice and a little hot water. Cover
the saucepan and simmer until the rice softens slightly. Taste and add more
salt, pepper and nutmeg if necessary. This ought to be a rather dry mixture that keeps its shape in a spoon. Set aside to cool and discard the cinnamon stick.
Then stir in the beaten yolks and softly fold in the whipped egg whites.
Line a 30 cm (12 inches) round, buttered baking dish with 5 phyllo pastry sheets, each brushed with melted butter. Sprinkle with dried breadcrumb, spoon in the filling and level the surface with a spatula. Tuck the cheese cubes at equal intervals into the filling, fold the pastry over and lay 5 more buttered sheets on top.* Trim the pastry and tuck it neatly into the side of the dish. Score the top layers of the pastry into portions. Brush the pie once more with hot butter, sprinkle slightly with water and bake in a moderate oven preheated to 180 C (350 F) for 40-45 minutes.
* Or pleat 5 sheets of pastry separately, arrange them attractively over the pie and brush with hot butter. Bake the pie in a moderate oven, preheated to 180C (350F) for 40-45 minutes.
CHICKEN SOUP WITH POACHED EGGS
1½ litre (6 cups) tasty chicken stock
6 extra fresh eggs
A little salt and freshly ground black pepper
A little salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bowl grated cheese of your choice
Heat the chicken stock and place 375 ml (1½ cup) into a
large frying pan. Break an egg into a
saucer and bring it as close as possible to the simmering stock in the frying
pan, and slip it in. Carefully,
lift the white over the yolk. Follow
the same procedure for the remaining eggs, keeping the stock at a gentle
simmer. Try to keep the eggs separated
and poach them for 3-5 minutes, depending on how firm the yolk is preferred.
Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon and place them into
warm soup plates. Ladle the hot chicken
stock over and serve with grated cheese, freshly ground black pepper and
buttered toast.
TRADITIONAL CHICKEN PIE
Chicken pie is baked all over
Pastry:
500 g (4 cups) self raising flour
250 ml (1 cup) olive oil
1 tsp salt
1 egg, beaten
200 g (1 tub) yogurt or less
1-3 tsp beer, if necessary
4 tbsp dried bread crumbs
1 egg white, slightly beaten, for brushing over pastry
Filling
1 large chicken, skin removed
2 stalks celery, trimmed
2 carrots, peeled and sliced
A 2.5 cm (1 inch) piece if ginger root, peeled and sliced
Salt and peppercorns
1 slice of lemon
1 bay leaf
1 kg (2 lbs) onions, peeled and thinly sliced
125 ml (½ cup) cream or whole milk
1-2 heaped tbsp cornflour
60 g (2 oz) kephalotyri or Parmesan, grated
60 g (2 oz) kephalotyri or Parmesan, grated
90 g (3 oz)) kasseri or bland Cheddar, thickly grated
4 eggs separated, yolks beaten slightly, whites whipped to
the soft peak stage with a pinch of salt
Nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste
1 beaten egg white for brushing the pastry
First make the pastry.
Mix flour with salt, olive oil, egg, yogurt, and knead until a soft
dough is obtained. Add a little beer, only
if the dough crumbles. Cover and set aside for at least 1 hour.
Partly cover the chicken with water add a little salt, bring
to the boil and skim. Add the celery, carrots, ginger, peppercorns, 1 slice
lemon and 1 bay leaf and simmer for about 40-45 minutes, or 17 minutes in a pressure-cooker. When tender, remove the chicken from the
saucepan and set aside to cool.
Discard the lemon slice and the bay leaf and strain the
stock, pressing on the vegetables to extract their juice, and pour it back into a clean saucepan. There should be 500 ml (2 cups) stock, if not, add a little hot
water. Add the onions and simmer until
soft.
Meanwhile, bone and dice the chicken, stir it into the onions
and bring to the boil. Mix the
cornflour with the cream or milk, pour it into
the chicken mixture and simmer for 5 -7 minutes more, stirring, constantly, until the mixture
thickens Remove the saucepan from the
heat, stir in the cheese and set aside to cool. Then stir in the yolks, the grated nutmeg, and freshly ground black pepper. Taste and add a little salt if necessary.
Finally, fold in the whipped egg whites.
.
Roll out the dough
into two round sheets, one slightly larger than the other. Drape the large
sheet over a 30 cm (12 inch) buttered baking dish, and sprinkle half of the dried
breadcrumbs over. Spoon in the filling, level it with a spatula and sprinkle the remaining bread crumbs evenly on top. Trim the overhanging pastry and
fold it over the filling. Place the
second pastry sheet over the pie and tuck it loosely, into the sides of the
dish. Score a slit on the pie, and
brush with beaten egg white. Bake in an
oven preheated to 180 C (350F) for about 1 hour.
BACLAVAS KEPHALLINIAS
This phyllo roll can be made with more or fewer pastry sheets. I usually make them with three sheets of pastry.
5 sheets of phyllo pastry
120 g (4 oz) hot butter
250 g (½ lb) unpeeled almonds, roasted
2 tbsp icing sugar
Light Syrup
250 ml (1 cup water)
300 g (1 cup sugar)
Boil for 5 minutes
Grind the almonds and mix well with the icing sugar.
Brush a sheet of phyllo pastry lightly with hot butter and
sprinkle, sparingly, with the almond/icing sugar mixture. Place another sheet exactly on top of the
first and repeat the same procedure, until all the pastry sheets have been used.
Roll the pastry like a Swiss roll, and place into a buttered baking dish. Cut in thick slices with a sharp knife and brush lavishly with sizzling butter. Bake in an oven preheated to180C (350F) until crisp and golden. Remove from oven, cool a little, then pour the hot syrup over. Serve cold.
Roll the pastry like a Swiss roll, and place into a buttered baking dish. Cut in thick slices with a sharp knife and brush lavishly with sizzling butter. Bake in an oven preheated to180C (350F) until crisp and golden. Remove from oven, cool a little, then pour the hot syrup over. Serve cold.