1953 Part II Paris

We traveled from London to Paris by train, via the Dover-Calais ferry.  It was the first time I visited Paris and was instantly enchanted by this beautiful city.  The tree-lined boulevards, the architecture, the parks and monuments and the sparkling atmosphere made Paris, for me, the most fascinating city in the world

We stayed in a small hotel near the Opera and we started touring immediately, as we had planned to remain in Paris only for one week.  We went to the Louvre, the Tuileries  Gardens and the Orangerie, the Notre Dame Cathedral, the Eiffel Tour and  Montmartre.  We visited Versailles, and experienced a different perspective of Paris from a cruise on the Seine.  We sat at road-side cafes and watched celebrities walk by, and enjoyed the most delicious, tasty meals at bistros and small restaurants, wherever we went.

We could have tasted one of these dishes in Paris, in July 1953.

SOLE A LA MEUNIERE

The fillets of sole a la meuniere, are usually sprinkled with seasoned flour, fried in clarified butter and served immediately, drizzled with beurre noisette.

This is a lighter version and a special treat for a few friends.

1½ kg (3 lb) fillets of sole

Flour seasoned with salt and freshly ground white pepper

120 g (4 oz) butter

1 -2 tsp lemon juice and grated rind of 1 lemon or more

Little water

A tiny knob of chilled, salted butter

Turn the fillets in seasoned flour and shake off the surplus.  Melt the butter and sauté the fish very gently until it turns white around the edges.  Turn and sauté the other side and when the fish flakes, remove it to a hot dish. The butter must not brown.

Pour the lemon juice and water in the frying pan, add the butter, sprinkle with the grated lemon rind and swirl around.  When the sauce thickens slightly, correct the seasoning, pour over the soles and serve at once.

BLANQUETTE DE VEAU A L’ANCIENNE

This is an old-fashioned white stew, a traditional French dish, which is very popular with all ages.  Start preparing this dish one day before you need it.

1½ kg (3 lb) boneless veal breast or shoulder, cut in 5 cm (2 inch) cubes

Water

1½ litre (6 cups) chicken stock

2 carrots, scraped and cut in pieces

2 medium onions, stuck with

2 cloves

2 tender celery tops

1 leek, white part only, chopped

1 bouquet garni (3 parsley sprigs + 1 bay leaf +1 sprig thyme)

1 tsp salt

75 g (2½ oz) butter at room temperature

24 baby onions, peeled

a little salt, if necessary

500 g (1 lb) small white mushrooms, champignons de Paris, trimmed

1 tbsp lemon juice

60 g (2 oz) plain flour

2-3 egg yolks

200 ml (4/5 cups) thick cream

Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Blanch the meat by placing it in cold water and bringing it to a brisk boil for 2 minutes.  Strain the meat immediately, wash away the scum and place it in a clean saucepan.

Cover the meat with 1¼ litre (5 cups) of chicken stock and add the carrots, onions, celery tops, bouquet garni and salt.  Bring to a moderate boil, skimming if necessary.  Lower the heat and simmer the meat for 1-1½ hours until it is tender.

Meanwhile place the baby onions, 15 g (½ oz) butter, a little salt and the remaining stock in a saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring once or twice until the onions are tender. Transfer them with a slotted spoon to a bowl.  Add the mushrooms and the lemon juice to the saucepan, simmer for 5 minutes.   Then transfer them to the bowl with the baby onions.  And pour the stock into the saucepan with the meat.

When the veal is tender, remove it to a bowl and strain the stock, pressing the vegetables and bouquet with the back of a spoon to extract as much juice as possible.  Strain the stock once more, through a sieve, lined with cheesecloth, and refrigerate it for at least one hour.  Remove the solid fat from the surface of the stock, and reduce it by half.

Melt the remaining butter and sift the flour over, stirring for 2-3 minutes.  Do not let it brown. Remove from the heat, pour in the reduced stock and whip vigorously until well combined.  Return to the stove and simmer gently, stirring constantly for 10 minutes, until the sauce thickens, skimming if necessary. It should have the consistency of a veloute soup. 

One hour before serving, heat the meat and the vegetables in a casserole.  Bring the sauce to the simmering point and remove from the heat.  Beat the egg yolks with cream until very well combined.  Stir 2-3 tbsp hot sauce into the egg mixture until well combined, and repeat once more.  Then reverse the procedure and whisk the egg mixture back into the saucepan and bring it to a bare simmer, but do not boil. Taste and add salt, freshly ground pepper if necessary.   Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables, in the casserole and heat gently for 5-10 minutes.  Serve the blanquette sprinkled with chopped parsley.

TARTE TATIN
(Tart Tatin) 

This is a lovely tart that was made, by mistake, by the Tatin sisters, and has since been looked upon as a small culinary masterpiece.

Pastry:

250 g (½ lb) plain flour
2 ample tbsp icing sugar

A pinch of salt

125 g (4 oz) butter, chilled and diced

1 large egg yolk

2-3 tbsp brandy or rum

Filling:

1½ kg (3 lb) about 6 apples, peeled, cored and sliced or cut into quarters

60 g (2 oz) butter

150 g (5 oz) caster sugar
A pinch of salt

Sift flour, icing sugar and salt into a large bowl, add the butter and rub gently with your fingers, until it resembles breadcrumbs.  Add the egg yolk and brandy or rum, and mix until the dough comes together. Shape the dough into a disk, cover with cling film and let it rest for 30 minutes at least.

For the filling, place the butter, sugar and salt in a round baking tin and heat, until the butter and sugar melt and caramelize.  Arrange the apple slices attractively over, tightly overlapping each other or if the apples are quartered, arrange them neatly over the the butter-caramel.  Place in the oven, preheated to 180 C (350 F) and baste the apples frequently with the sugar/butter mixture.  After 10-12 minutes when the apples are still crunchy, remove the tin from the oven, and allow them to cool.

Preheat the oven to 180 C (350 F) once more.   Roll out the “rested” dough into a circle, larger that baking tin and drape it over the apples.  Trim the surplus, and tuck it neatly into the edges of the tin, so that the apples are completely covered.   Bake the tart for 20-25 minutes or until the pastry is crisp and golden brown.  Then remove from the oven and let it rest for 5 minutes, before sliding a knife around the edge and reversing the tart on a dish.   Serve with cream, or ice-cream.